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No hot water, control board light stays green

I changed the control box, changed upper/lower sensor. i hear a click in the control box every minute. the current from the main circuit breaker is correc, this is a whirlpool electric energy smart hot water heater

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No green light on the control board ,and is brand new board ? Could a heat element cause the control board not to light up green?

Posted on Aug 14, 2009

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It may be bad thermostat terminals of the water heater, or, alternatively, the very top heating element is in need of replacement. See this handy diagnostic article for more info:
http://yourhandymanzone.com/Your_Handyman_Zone_How_To_Pages_Home_Improvement_Zone_Heating_Systems_Water_Heaters_Cold_Water_Still_Released_Despite_Water_Heater.htm

Hope this helps.
Brad

Posted on May 27, 2009

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Got 5 minutes of hot water then cold. replaced both elements and thermos. still 5 minutes of hot water. power bill increased nearly 400% in 30 days. HELP!!! please.


When the top of the tank is hot the upper thermostat removes power from the upper heating element and transfers the power to the lower thermostat and heating element. If the lower thermostat is defective, then the lower portion of the tank will not be heated and the supply will be greatly reduced. You replaced both elements however check that the lower element is coming on after ther upper one cuts out and is acutally working.
Check for power at the upper thermostat terminals where the power is sent to the lower thermostat and heating element. If there is no power then the upper thermostat should be replaced. If there is power then check for power at the lower heating element. If there is no power at the lower heating element then replace the lower thermostat.
If there is power to the lower heating element then it should be getting hot. If it is not, maybe defective. Another possibility is a broken dip tube. Check for a broken dip tube and replace if necessary.

If the dip tube is broken, the incoming cold liquid can mix with the out going hot liquid and cause it to seem as though you are running out.

Nov 04, 2011 | Rheem 40 GAL ELEC TALL Water Heater 6YR SC...

2 Answers

Hello - I have a 6-7 yr old Whirlpool EnergySmart 50 gallon 5500 watt water heater. (Two control boards fried and were replaced free). Symptom now is not enough hot water. No 'error codes' are blinking...


1) Residential water heaters are non-simultaneous. Only one element works at a time.
Upper element comes on until top of tank is heated, and then lower element is switched on until lower part of tank is heated. Lower element keeps tank hot during standby hours
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html

2) Typical Whirlpool energy smart has 4500Watt elements. Look at label on side of tank
If both elements were ON, that would draw 9000Watts or 37.5 amps, requiring 50 amp breaker and 8 gauge wire. V x A = Watts.
All dual-element tanks are 240V.
Whirlpool energy smart requires 10 gauge wire and 30 amp breaker so electronics are not starved during operation. If your wire or breaker are undersized, that is suspect for repeated failure.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Whirlpool-Energy-Smart-electric.html

3) Typical electric water heater heats 21 gallons per hour. First hour delivery is higher since elements heat water as you use it. Overall however, electric water heater cannot re-heat as fast as gas because gas water heater burner carries more BTU punch per minute than electric element. Gas heats about 41 gallons per minute, with higher first hour delivery.

4) IF YOU HAVE OLDER energy smart and installed newer board, then you could have non-simultaneous operation is reversed so that lower element comes on first.
Read following post at Fixya:
http://www.fixya.com/support/t8263226-our_water_heater_doing
Contact Whirlpool 1-877-817-6750

5) Another potential problem is that you have sediment inside tank and that is reducing efficiency of lower element.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html

Add a comment with your experience so others with same-similar problem can benefit.

Also take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Apr 09, 2011 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

Our water heater is doing the same thing. . Before I replaced the board I checked the elements, both were about 13.5 ohms, after checking I made sure to replace all insulation and closed the access covers...


1) You have given good diagnostic information ... except brand and model number of water heater are missing.
Locate this information on label on side of tank.

2) 2 flashes for high temperature indicate you have Whirlpool or Craftmaster Energy Smart.
You have dual element 240V tank-type electric water heater with electronic control board and temperatures sensors.
Sensors can be ordered separately for $30 each.
Sensors seem like best suspect since elements test out and you have new control board.

3) Did you test elements for short to ground through center of element?
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html

4) Energy smart requires 10 gauge wire and 30 amp breaker. If wire or breaker are undersized, then I would expect chronic problems with electronics. I believe the requirement is so element draw or other factors don't starve electronic control board.

5) How it works: Energy smart is non-simultaneous water heater. Non-simultaneous means upper element turns on first. When upper temperature sensor is satisfied, control board cuts power to upper element and sends power to lower temperature sensor and element. So both elements are never ON at same time. Lower element runs until lower temperature sensor is satisfied. I do not know decision tree for how microchip processes the information.

6) I have examined this water heater and read the manual. I wrote following page, but have not conducted electrical testing on unit simply because it is controlled by micro-chip.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Whirlpool-Energy-Smart-electric.html

7) Sample Energy Smart manual:
Manual does not show how to test temperature sensors, but manufacturer might have more information. Manufacturer might have information how changing meter can affect their electronics.
I would guess undersized wiring would have greater impact than electricity turning off for 1 minute.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Whirlpool-energy-smart-electric-manual.pdf
Whirlpool 1-877-817-6750

8) 4500 Watt elements should test 12.3 ohms, so your elements check out fine.
Be sure to test for short to ground by setting multimeter to ohms, remove wires from element, and test each screw to bare metal part of heater and to metal base of element.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/ohm-reading-for-emements.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html

9) The water heater industry changes very fast, so current manual is best place to start troubleshooting.
If you have different brand than shown above, then open following link to identify manufacturer's website:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-manufacturers.html
Add a comment if you need help finding information

10) Post question on professional water heater forum for more eyes on same question:
http://www.thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com/forums/forum3/

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Feb 13, 2011 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

Hi...I have a Whirlpool water heater and the water only stays hot for a few minutes. How do I adjust the temperature or settings so that I can have hot water all the way through the shower instead of...


I am guessing this is an ele water heater and the temp setting are not the problem.
Problem: Not enough hot water or water temperature too low. When the top of the tank is hot the upper thermostat removes power from the upper heating element and transfers the power to the lower thermostat and heating element. If the lower thermostat is defective, then the lower portion of the tank will not be heated and the supply will be greatly reduced.
Check for power at the upper thermostat terminals where the power is sent to the lower thermostat and heating element. If there is no power then the upper thermostat should be replaced. If there is power then check for power at the lower heating element. If there is no power at the lower heating element then replace the lower thermostat.
If there is power to the lower heating element then it should be getting hot. If it is not, replace it. Another possibility is a broken dip tube. Check for a broken dip tube and replace if necessary.

The dip tub is located under the fitting where the hot water comes out.

Feb 03, 2011 | Whirlpool Water Heaters

1 Answer

2 green flashes. hot water is blazing hot set at 120 degrees.have the energy smart unit model#ee2h50rd045v . what is wrong?


2 green flashes is 'High Water Temp.'
http://waterheatertimer.org/Whirlpool-Energy-Smart-electric.html

Typical energy smart manual:
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Whirlpool-energy-smart-electric-manual.pdf

3 flashes is Temperature Sensor failure.
4 flashes is Upper element
5 flashes is Lower element

Troubleshoot section says:
1) Make sure access doors and insulation are installed.
2) Check elements for resistance of 5-25 ohms (if element has a short in center of element, it might not trip breaker)
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
3) replace element and reset control system.
Buy ordinary 4500 Watt element from hardware store.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-element.html

4) I also suspect the self-diagnostic control box.
Manual says: Repair parts may be ordered through your plumber,
local distributor, home improvement center, or by calling
1-877-817-6750.
You need serial number, product number and model number from label on side of tank.

Jan 11, 2011 | Whirlpool Water Heaters

1 Answer

Water may stay hot for 5 minutes then gets cold. water heater often blows breaker or pop out switch.


I suggest taking 30 minutes and testing water heater parts.
Right away we know 2 things:
-Electricity to heater is good.
-Upper element is receiving power because you have some hot water. If upper element was burned out, you would have no hot water.

That leaves 5 suspects:
Upper thermostat.
Lower thermostat.
Loose or shorted wire.
Upper element shorted to ground near center of element.
Lower element shorted or damaged in some manner.

Buy $10 milti-meter from Home Center or hardware
When test calls for testing voltage, rotate multimeter dial to 240-250-277 VAC.
When test calls for testing elements or continuity, rotate multimeter dial to Ohms.
Take 30 minutes and go down page.
Test will identify problem(s) and show how to fix it yourself.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-water-heater.html

Add a comment for more free assistance.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, fixya expert speaks to you via phone while you work on water heater.

Jan 01, 2011 | RELIANCE ELECTRIC WATER HEATER

1 Answer

My electric 58 gal whirlpool water heater runs out of water faster then normal. I took my amp probe and had current draw on lower element but not on upper then turned thermostat up heared relay click then...


http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

You have a 240V electric water heater because you have an upper and lower element

The upper thermostat works in the manner you have discovered
.
In residential electric water heaters, the upper element is ON or the lower element is ON, or both elements are OFF.
This is called non-simultaneous operation.
Non-simultaneous operation means the elements are never turned ON at the same time.

Because water heater thermostats only turn off one leg of the 240V circuit, the upper and lower elements will always have power on the two screws, but not across the two screws.
This power is 120V and the circuit is not complete so the element will not heat.
So if you test any element, it will always show at least 120V
Only when the thermostat clicks ON is the 240V circuit completed, and the element turns ON.

Identify the problem:
1) The shortage of hot water is caused by a bad upper or lower thermostat or a bad lower element.
We know the upper element is working because you have some hot water. If the upper element was burned out, you would have no hot water because the upper thermostat would never click over and send power to lower part of water heater.

2) It sounds like your upper thermostat is clicking on and off, so I would test the lower element.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Do-it-yourself-water-heater-timer.html

Add a comment if you need more information, and I will help.
The do-it-yourself link above will give you full electrical how-to for self-fixing electric water heaters.

Nov 02, 2010 | Whirlpool Water Heaters

1 Answer

Energy smart hot water heater not giving ample amount of hot water both elements ohm at 12.5


element-connection-450.jpg
For images and product information
For manual


You checked ohms, did you check for 240V across lower element when lower element is turned on?

Energy smart electric water heater
has a control box on top of unit. Water heater does not have typical thermostats that can be tested and replaced. Temperature sensors located above each element send information to control box through small black and red wires. Temperature sensor sells for about $40, but there is no test listed that shows how to determine when sensors fail.

Potential problems:
-Temperature sensor is not reading correct temp
-Control box not processing correct temperature information
-Selector on control box set to 2, 3 or 4
-Thermostat temp on control box set lower than 120 degrees F
-Sediment build-up starting to surround lower element so water doesn't circulate (see if drain valve runs full-open

Oct 08, 2010 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

My energy smart water heater was flashing to check lower element. I replaced it reset it and still got the flashes to check lower element. I reset again and got flashes to check upper element. Called...


There's a setting you will have to change in order to get hot water longer.. Sounds like that smart board might have a setting..But I would call the device center back...They might can tell you very fast what to do

Oct 01, 2017 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

High water temp


Have you done a reset on the board?

The reset function is used to restart the Temperature Control System after an error condition has been detected and
corrected.
Reset the control by pushing the red reset button on the controller. After a reset, the control performs self diagnostics
before normal operations begin. This takes approximately 10 minutes.

Then do the following if the flashes don't stop.

1. Make sure upper and lower access doors and insulation are
properly in place
2. Check element circuits for resistance of 5 - 25 ohms
3. Replace element if necessary and reset control system

Mar 21, 2009 | Water Heaters

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