It's a Series 80 large capacity washer that stopped working before it went to the spin cycle. Now it won't turn on at all. The model number is 20872.990 (I think)
SOURCE: Kenmore Series 80 Washer - Water will not stop running
If the wash tub overfills without stopping unless the washer is stopped, this is usually caused by a defective pressure switch or loose air hose going to the pressure switch. The pressure switch is located behind the water level knob inside the console. It is common for the rubber air dome hose to come off and cause a washer to overfill. The console can be accessed the following ways:
If you have removable end caps, the will lift of by prying up from the ear of the console and pulling from the front. Sometimes inserting a screwdriver in the slot in the top of the end cap on the back of the washer and giving the screwdriver a slight twist can help to pop the end cap loose. There will be a philips screw under each end cap that will need to be loosened.
If the end caps are not removable, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of the console where it meets the top of washer on each side and push in to release the retaining clip that holds it in place.
Once you have the console loose, you can flip it up over the back panel to its resting position. Use care not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold the console to the washer.
With the console in its resting position, examine the pressure switch. It will be a round plastic switch located on the left hand side (sometimes located in the center) of the console. There will be an electrical connection and a rubber hose attached to it. More common than not, the rubber hose comes off. If this is the case, reattach the hose to the small nipple on the switch. Use care not to break the nipple. You can take a small zip tie and place it over the hose where it is attached to the nipple and secure it snugly to help keep the hose in place. Do NOT over tighten as you can damage the nipple. The zip tie creates enough resistance the keep the hose from sliding off from vibration over time.
If the pressure switch hose is still attached, double check your electrical connection. If the connector is intact, replace the switch as a last resort. If you can provide me with your model number (located under the lid along the wash tub rim) I can get a part number for you and let you know how much the switch would cost. I hope this helps you.
SOURCE: kenmore washer 80 series misses spin during wash.
You may need to replace the motor coupling between the pump and motor...
SOURCE: Sears Kenmore 80 series washing machine Model 110.26832691
How do you remove the top of a kenmore washing machine? I have a mouse stuck in the lid and can not get the top off.
SOURCE: Series 70 kenmore washer ,spin cycle not working
If the washer will fill and drain, but won't agitate or spin, you, indeed, may have a broken motor coupling. The noise of the motor engaging, lack of agitation and ability to still drain are the usual symptoms. This is a common fail item with this model washer through normal wear and tear. Newer versions of the coupler are more resilient and resist breaking. The following link explains how to replace one:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r385250-replacing_motor_coupling_kenmore_top
The motor coupling is located between the drive motor and the transmission and takes the place of a drive belt. They do wear out and can break. The replacement part number is included in the link I provided and is an improved upgraded coupling that is more resilient. It should last longer. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
A replacement coupling can be purchased on line at appliancepartspros.com for about $11. Just use the part number in the link and "Search by Part Number" for your search criteria. Let me know if you have any questions. I hope you find this information helpful. NOTE: There are other problems that can cause the washer symptoms as you describe, but the motor coupling is the least expensive and easiest solution to try first. If the motor coupling is still intact, please let me know.
SOURCE: Kenmore 80 series washer leaks underneath
1. Find out where the leak is coming from. Does it leak constantly or during one part of the cycle?
A constant leak means the leak is in the valve where the hoses hook to the washer, the supply valves, or the lines to the washer from the water supply.
The other two options are when the washer is agitating or pumping the water out between cycles.
2. See if it leaks during both cycles and the test there would be to lift the lid just as it starts to drain and wait to see if the water stops leaking.
If it doesn't, then run the drain cycle to see if it gets worse or better.
Results may not be immediate as it would take a few minutes for whatever water there to finish dripping.
3. Wait until the water has been pumped out, lift the lid and check the drip again.
When the location of the leak has been determined, unless the washer has been frozen, most leaks can be fixed without parts and just using hand tools.
If you have an older, top load washer, the back or front will come off so you can observe where the leak is coming from.
WARNING. You are working with a moving, electrically hot machine that could flood.
You must take your time and not put your hand or hair in somewhere that can catch you.
You should not have to get into the upper control center, thus reducing the shock hazard.
4. Before turning the machine on, remove a cover. On some washers, there are two screws on the bottom L & R front corners that take the front panel loose.
Once the screws are removed, the front cover is hinged at the top and you simply pull the bottom away from the machine until it comes un-hooked, and set the cover aside.
There shouldn't be many exposed wires or ends, but a few. Don't touch the terminals or lay something metal in the machine that could fall on the terminals.
5. Take a flashlight, look for obvious leaks or better, water stains around nuts, hose clamps, etc.
Most likely you'll see some water residue here and there and that would be normal as a washer is wet. Look for puddles, long white streaks, calcium deposits.
Most likely, you won't find standing water, but some clues of where you should look when the machine is running.
Unless this leak is so obivous you can see what's wrong, you don't need to start it and you should repair the problem.
Once possible areas have been identified, you should start the machine as if you had a load in it and start to watch for the leak.
WARNING- Make sure you have no tools laying in the machine and you are out of the way. There are spinning parts and live wires once you turn the machine on.
Stay clear, and watch your hair and hands.
Once the machine is full and starts its cycle, look for leaks.
Let the machine do its cycle and as it goes into each part of the cycle, look for the leak.
Once you find a drip, stop the machine by lifting the lid or pulling out on the control knob, and now observe more closely.
Remember, water runs down; where it drips is not necessarily the place of origin.
6 Find the leak and make the needed adjustment (which will be all that is necessary most of the time).
If it is a part you need, get the make, model number and serial number of the washer and call an appliance parts dealer or repair service if you don't think you can repair the problem.
If the washing machine leaks water while it is filling, pull it away from the wall and see if the water drips from the inlet hoses or valves as the unit fills.
If it does, tighten the faucet packing nuts. Then, inspect the hoses and replace them if they have become cracked.
Also look for cracks in the casing of the inlet valves. Unplug the unit and lift the top to better inspect the valves.
Replace any valves that are cracked.
Valves usually crack when the hot water in the house water supply is heated to greater than 170 degrees.
They also crack if the house is left cold during the water and water is not drained from the unit. A cracked inlet nozzle can leak during fill.
The leaking water will drip down the outside of the tub and collect under the unit. Be sure that the hose connected to the inlet nozzle is tightly clamped.
Replace the nozzle if you find cracks in it.
If the leaking occurs at some time during the wash sequence other than when the machine is filling with water, unplug the unit, remove the back panel and examine the parts under the machine.
You can make a closer inspection by tipping the unit over onto it's front or side.
Tighten hose clamps that have become loose. If water is leaking from the pump, replace the pump.
The gasket between the tub and the splash guard may wear out and leak. To check the gasket, lift the top and remove the snubber and splash guard.
Replace a worn gasket. A hole in the bottom of the tub can develop.
If the hole is less than 1/4 inch in diameter, remove the agitator and basket and seal the hole.
If the hole is larger, replace the washing machine or tub.
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