I am looking for the rubber feet that fit on the underside of the cast iron burners toppers (don't know what you would call them but where the pots sit.) many of mine as missing over the years and the burners do not sit level
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Remove the brass burner heads.Remove the Butterfly nut ( in some models just a screw ) and remover the cast iron base.At the narrow end there is a nozzle with a small pin hole which couples with this pipe. Take a fine needle or pin and insert into the small hole and clean. Reassemble and Voila !!!!
Interesting, I'm looking for a solution to a similar issue. Our new (7 month old) 30'' Wolf Range has this issue. When both front burners are light, the back burner's electronic starter begins to click, but only when you put a pan on the front left burner. I believe the iron/steel in the pan is causing a magnetic field thats starting the rear burner to go off.. just don't know.. will report back after the repair person comes.
What I would try. Assuming the "burners" means the cast iron assemblies on top of the stainless steel, remove them to an area outside. Perhaps on a piece of plywood, and clean them with oven cleaner. Grease may drip off them, so a deck or driveway are unacceptable. Wear gloves and watch splatters. Wash thoroughly with fresh water before reusing. Beware. Caustic chemicals can discolor stainless
Do not attempt if your stovetop is hot, you will get burned!!
This is an easy fix, the problem is your burners aren't lined up properly. Remove the iron grates (what your pots rest on) and the burner cap (the round black top on the burner) and finally the burner base (the round golden colored piece resting on the stainless stovetop). If you flip the base over you will see that it is keyed, meaning there is a grove that fits the indentation on the stove top. When you replace the base make sure to line the grove up with the indentation. If it's not flush with the stove top, slowly twist the round burner base until it falls into place. That's it!
you CAN use the skillet, but not with great results id assume, it holds too much heat, and problaby a bit too rough underneath and would probably scratch the glass top, in a family business for over 20 yrs. now and thats my recomendation, my brother also in the same feild swears his wife uses it with no issues!!!
I had a similar problem on a different gas range but your problem seems the same as mine was.
I examined the underside of the burner and saw a little 'flash' left from the casting process and I filed it off.
This made the problem worse;it wouldn't light at all anymore.
I tried the opposite, blocking off the burner channel from the gas feed pipe to the spark gap; problem solved.
It hasn't had a hiccough since.
I can only imagine that the flow of gas toward the spark gap was so strong, the gas was blowing itself out.
Not knowing exactly how the underside of your burner looks or how the gas is partially diverted to the spark gap but I drilled a small hole in the casting, inserted a length of copper wire (the gauge used in house wiring), then 'tuned' the flow by clipping part of the wire off and trying it.
It might have taken all of 15 minutes to correct the annoying problem.