Question about Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer
I bought a Whirlpool Duet washing machine from Lowes about 2 1/2 years ago. Model # GHW9150PW0. After 13 months of use, I started having problems with it.
After pushing the start buttom, the machine would only make light clicking noises and then display the error code F D/L. I would have to unplug it and let it sit overnight. The next morning it would sometimes work and other times I would have to keep trying it every few hours until it would finally make a loud click and then it would work. This went on every couple of weeks and then I started getting the F11 error code. It would stop in mid cycle and trap my wet clothes inside the machine. Unplugging it for a while worked for a few more months until it finally stopped working for good a couple of weeks ago. An authorized service repairman replaced both the CCU and the door lock on Oct. 8 at a cost of $307 after being advised by a Whirlpool rep. My machine worked for only 4 days and I am once again getting the same error code F D/L.
Can you help me, please?.
I have a Kenmore (Whirlpool) front loader He3t that begin having the same problem after 2 years. I researched the problem and tried everything. The door lock mech. and all wiring was fine. Finally I stumbled upon a way to clear the error. (It still shows up once in a while.) The following has worked for me CONSISTENTLY about 25 times.
1) Remove top washer cover.
2) Disconnect the connector for the door switch on the control box.
3) Reach around and push any cycle button (normal, delicate, etc.)
4) Now hit the Cancel button.
5) Reconnect the door switch connector to the control box.
6) Reach around and push any button again. The clicking stops for me.
7) Replace the washer cover and use normally.
Hope this works for someone else!
There must be something getting latched up in the control board. And it gets reset.
Posted on Nov 11, 2008
Fdl is a door latch error code. F11 is a serial communications error that is associated with either the door latch, central control unit (main computer) or associated wiring. Since you can hear a "click", and the washer works intermittently I would suspect you have a bad door latch assembly. Just to be sure you will need to check all your wiring connections going to the central control unit and door latch. To access follow these steps:
1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the three 7mm screws holding the top panel on. They are located along the top edge in the back of the washer. Once the screws are removed the top panel will slide back then lift up.
3. The Central Control Unit (CCU) is located in the central rear of the washer. You can't miss it. Make sure all the connections are plugged in snugly. The door latch connections are located behind the front panel on the right hand side. Check ONE connection at a time.
After checking wiring harness, run systems diagnostics test by performing the following:
Select DRAIN/SPIN, NO/SPIN, followed by pushing any button under OPTIONS 4 times. If entered correctly the display will read "C00" and you should hear the door latch "click". The diagnostics will run through a series of tests to include FILL, AGITATE, DRAIN and SPIN functions. Since the door latch is the first step of the diagnostic sequence, the tests will not progress if the door latch fails. You can push PAUSE/CANCEL any time to end diagnostics. Run this test several times. If anything fails you will get an "F" code in the display window. If the tests all pass, the unit will shut off, followed by an audible "beep" and the CLEAN light indicator will be lit. If you get successful results, then you know you probably had a loose wire somewhere. If the test fails, I would attempt to replace the door latch before the CCU. The latch costs considerably less. The CCU can cost as much as $220 depending on where you get it.
If you decide to replace the door latch follow these steps:
1. Make sure washer is unplugged.
2. Locate the wire hoop retaining ring that holds the rubber door boot on. It will be located behind the front edge of the rubber where it meets the door frame.
3. Locate the tension spring at the 6 o'clock position and stretch the spring apart to release the hoop. Pull the hoop from the bottom first and remove from the door boot.
4. Pull door boot from door opening and fold back inside wash tub so you can access behind the front panel of the washer.
5. Remove the three torx screws that hold the door latch on.
6. The door latch is seated in a plastic retainer bracket. Reach in behind front panel and carefully remove the door latch from this bracket so you can access the wire connectors.
7. Remove wire connectors.
8. Re-install wire connectors and latch in reverse order of how it was removed.
9. Re-install door boot, ensuring it seated properly all the way around the door frame opening.
10. Re-insert wire retaining hoop in the groove behind the front lip of the rubber door boot starting at the 12 o'clock position and working your way around to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. (You may need a second set of hands for this part). While holding downward tension on the hoop to keep it seated, stretch the spring apart enough to snap the remaining part of the hoop back into place at the bottom of the door opening.
Run system diagnostics again to see if the latch functions properly and all tests pass. Good luck to you and I hope this helps you.
Posted on Oct 13, 2007
STOP the insanity....that's what you're saying if you encounter the F11 and/or fDL error codes on your washer. If you're not there yet, you will be soon....
The dreaded F11 and/or fDL codes - been there done ALL that!! Our Whirlpool DUET washer is just over 5 years. We experienced our first F11 code 6 months ago (warranty just expired what else is new?). When it first happened, I thought nothing of it - hit the cancel button and the machine reset itself. Then it happened again and again and again. Each time it happened it was more challenging to reset it. I searched for the fix on line - I should have done my research before we purchased the washer.
I was able to determine the error was stemming from the CCU board. Order a new one at over $300.00 and have the same thing happen again - I don't think so. We tried EVERYTHING suggested on multiple websites.....unplugging the washer, hitting the right upper side, checking wires, wiggling the wires, wedging things to improve contacts, soldering, re-soldering, Vaseline, changed relays....anything and everything was a temporary fix. Contact Whirlpool directly? Tried that too, they apparently don't recognize there is an issue with F11 fDL errors, "not a commonly called in concern". Really?? We started searching washers to purchase....I couldn't bare spending $$$ for another washer, but we are a busy active family with 4 kids - what are our options? Then one night after searching the websites for one last desperate attempt at salvaging our washer, I followed through on a link:
Now, I'm the biggest sceptic in the world and the most frugal consumer - really I am. I am posting my testament to this service because I've been there - frustrated, disappointed, angry. I am so pleased with the service Ed provided - from answering all my questions, to the superb job he did on the CCU. You can review all the comments posted by all his other pleased customers on eBay. I had to stand by my washer for the first 6 loads - just in case the beep beep beeps started. To my astonishment, amazement, and surprise - it never happened!! In my opinion, this is the only true fix for your F11/Fdl error!!
I never imagined in my wildest dreams ever telling anyone how happy I am to be doing my laundry again, but I really am!!
Posted on May 13, 2010
I know these are older post but new people read them every day.
Just because it is on the internet does not mean it is the correct information. Most appliances come with a Tech Sheet that is available to paid subscribers and appliance service companies ( many one man operations do not have access) These Tech Sheets have all kinds of diagnostic info that makes it much easier for a tech to fix. We solve and repair these issues everyday with little to no callbacks. Sometimes it is better to call a reputable service company and pay for expert repair. It is irresponsible for a tech on the net to tell you change a $200 control unit without running system diagnostics. The problem arises when you call someone who is not trained properly and it gives all serviceman a bad name.
Just taking a board out without grounding yourself to prevent static charges can ruin it. Don't bring them to a parts store in a zip lock bag either as it will damage the board.
My job is to support many techs in the field because you can't just memorize things like the old days. You do not want to know how many Service Techs have there VCR or DVD clocks flashing 12:00
You get what you pay for.
I used the Fix it for a couple things that I already knew the answer too and the feedback I was given was all over the place.
Just to put things in perspective we sold hundreds of Duets and have had a handful of FDL issues. Whirlpool who also makes many Sears Front loaders is 1/3 to half the market share so the complaints will be seen on the internet. Just be glad you did not buy a
Posted on Apr 27, 2011
Yep, same problem with me. We purchased this machine about 2 1/2 years ago for about $1,200 and we are having the exact same problem. Right now my clothes are trapped in the machine with the F11 code showing. This it totally unacceptable in my opinion.
Posted on Aug 25, 2008
I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM. DID SOLUTION 2 AFTER REPLACING DOOR SWITCH WITH NO LUCK AND NOW IT WORKS FINE.
Posted on Mar 27, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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