If the leak is coming from under the front of the washer, this is commonly caused by a leaking drain pump or drain hoses. These pumps are not serviceable and will require replacing.
If the leak is coming from the back of the washer, this is commonly caused by a leaking water inlet valve or associated dispenser hoses.
If the leak is coming from under the center of the wash tub, this can be caused by a bad tub or cracked outer tub shell. If the seal is leaking, tell-tale signs of water marks will be visible on the gearcase (transmission). If the tub is cracked, it can be temporarily repaired with 2 part epoxy, but will ultimately require replacement (not a common problem).
Now...if the leak begins when the washer starts to fill and is a huge gush of water, this is caused by the air hose coming loose from the air dome. The air dome is a small plastic air gap on the lower right hand side of the wash tub. There is a small rubber air hose that connects to it and runs all the way to the pressure switch inside the operator console (located behind the load level selector knob). This is what shuts the water off at the appropriate water level. If the hose comes loose, there will be a huge gush of water pouring out of the wash tub (air dome) when the tub reaches about 1/4 full.
In any case, you will need to remove the outer washer casing to access the interior. Follow these steps:1. Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.
a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.
b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.
3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.
4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.
5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.
6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.To re-install the case, follow these steps:1. With the lid of the washer open, grasp the case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.
2. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.
3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.
4. Reinstall console.
If any of these symptoms sound familiair, and you need addtional assistance, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
NOTE: If the drain pump IS the problem and you need to replace it, pull the drain hose from the standpipe at the wall and use a wet/dry shop to pull a vacuum on the line. This will drain any residual water left in the drain lines. The pump is easy to replace. Simply loosen both drain hoses, pop the two retaining clips that hold the pump in place, and pull it off the drive mot shaft.