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What is the smallest cassette cog I can get for a bicycle? Is there something smaller than an 11-26?

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Yes there is a 10 tooth available for high end road bikes.....if this won't fit your application i would increase my front sprocket 1 or 2 teeth....same outcome...taller gears...good luck to you friend....Tim

Posted on May 11, 2009

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I have two levers on the right hand side of my bike Dawes c1.1. One on top and one underneath. Gears numbered 1 to 6 Presumably 6 is the rear smallest cog and 1 upper largest cog. Does the bottom...


Well, you're looking at. Shift it each way and find out. Two separate controls suggests binary opposing function.

You'll probably find it here. Adjustments will be necessary at some point.

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/shift-levers-shifters

Jun 18, 2011 | Cycling

1 Answer

Chain slips on front cogs - half a turn on larger cog followed by half a turn on smaller cog - therefore unridable. The front cogs are warped ,moving left & right when being turned. I have got full...


I have straightened a large cog with a big screw driver, putting it through the outer part and levering against the inside. The metal of the cog bends quite easily and you need to work carefully, checking and correcting from the appropriate side as you go along. Your friends can stand and marvel at your brilliance, you don't need their help.

Mar 27, 2011 | Cycling

1 Answer

Cannot get rear derailer to work properly 24 inch girls evolution


Don't start messing with the derailleur yet! Make sure your shifting trouble isn't due to something else, such as a warped, dirty, or stretched chain, gummed-up pulleys, crud in the cable housing, trapped cable, or a bent derailleur hanger
Clean the chain and the rear derailleur pulleys. Pull the chain away from each pulley, and turn the pulley to make sure it can move freely. A pulley that offers resistance to turning must be replaced.
Now check the cable to be sure it slides freely. Mud and grit within the cable housing, or on a cable-guide, can keep the derailleur from moving a "full gear" during downshifts. If the cable doesn't slide freely in the housing, you may be able to clean or lube it to restore smooth shifting.
Let the high-gear limit screw. In your highest gear on the shifter, and with the chain on the smallest cog, position the derailleur so the upper pulley exactly matches the teeth of the small cog. Run the chain a bit with the front derailleur in the large ring, adjusting the limit screw until the pulley and the cog seem to match perfectly.

Setting the high-gear (small cog) limiting screw.



Once you're sure the derailleur matches the cog, move it just a whisker (1/8 to 1/4 turn) towards the other cogs. (You may need to readjust a bit if you get chain-skip.)

Closeup of setting the limiting screw.



Now adjust the low-gear limit screw. Shift into the lowest gear (largest cog). If it won't go, loosen the limit screw. With the chain on the largest cog (and the front derailleur in the small chainring), adjust the derailleur so the upper pulley exactly matches the teeth of the large cog.Once it's perfect, turn the limit screw so it moves the derailleur a tiny amount towards the other cogs (1/8 to 1/4 turn usually works).

Setting the low-gear (largest cog) limiting screw.



Now shift to the highest gear (smallest cog). Push the shift lever to downshift one gear (go from the smallest cog to the next-smallest). If it doesn't shift, tighten the cable with the barrel adjuster, 1/2 turn counter-clockwise. Backshift and try again. Continue tightening until it shifts. If it overshifts, going from the smallest cog to the third-smallest, loosen the cable by turning 1/2 turn clockwise. Backshift and repeat until it shifts exactly from the small to the next-smallest cog.

Fine adjustment of tension in the derailleur cable.





Now go to the second-smallest ring. Tighten or loosen the cable slightly, until the outer side plates of the chain are just clearing the third-smallest cog. Shift up and down, fine-tuning until you're satisfied.

Checking the position of the chain on the cogs.





Mar 04, 2011 | Pacific International Pacific Evolution 24...

1 Answer

Sram Red outer chain ring problems. I have been a bicycle mech since 1994. I have a customer with sram red chain rings. He was in outer ring 53T and smallest cog rear cassette. The outer chain ring folded...


im in the industry aswell hmmmmm never heard of any recalls but i know quality speaks volumes of whether i would buy product from which i see an obvious quality based failures ive has similar issues and reported them sram said abuse without even looking at the issue we since have discontinued their line of products hope this helps

Nov 16, 2010 | Sram Force Crankset 53/39

1 Answer

Shimano gears


Basically, avoid cross-chaining. That is, the right-most drive chainring with the left-most cogs, or vice-versa. They place excessive sideways torque on the chain (increasing friction and wear) while not prividing any unique gear ratios that a straighter chainline would provide. The rear derailleur may not be able to take up the slack of small-small riding; or your chain length may be sufficiently short that large-large combo will pull the derailleur to far forward, perhaps even damaging it. To illustrate for yourself what crosschaining does, manually shift your bike into the two described extremes then get behind the bike and sight along the top run of the chain. You'll clearly see that it forces two unnecessary sideways bends in the chain. That is really bad for the hardware.

Generally, the large chainring is for high wheel rpm's but low rider torque, so stay toward the same side (medium-smaller cogs) of the cassette in the rear to maintain higher speeds.

Conversely, the granny gear (smallest chainring) is for high torque, low speed conditions and it works best with its same side (medium-larger) cogs on the rear. The middl ring works with all of the cogs in the rear and serves most off-road purposes that don't require extremes of speed or power.

Buy a few bicycle magaizines, visit bicycling.com and read up on shifting and everything else. It's worth it to get it right and ride smarter instead of harder.

Jan 25, 2010 | Cycling

1 Answer

Dura ace sti hangs on middle cogs on cassette.


change the cable ,because the have damage in the middle,

Oct 20, 2009 | Shimano Cycling

1 Answer

Need to replace the cassette body on my Ksyrium SL wheel. Is there a tech sheet on this procedure?


You need two tools: a cassette wrench or socket (it's a splined socket that fits into the cassette through the axle)and a chain whip wrench. You use the chain whip by wrapping it around one of the cogs of the cassette to immobilize it and then loosen the lock nut of the cassette with the cassette wrench. It is just like a screw or bolt. The Cassette needs to be lined up with the splines on the freehub. Find the thin spline and use it as your "key" because it is the only one that width. Then drop the new cassette on to the freehub and re-torque the cassette's lock ring. If the cassette is disassembled rather than one piece, from the largest cog first on the bottom, alternate between cogs and spacers until you are out of spacers. The smallest cogs have these cast in. As you take the old one off, the installation technique is the same in reverse.

Regards,
matt

Sep 14, 2009 | Mavic Cycling

1 Answer

Shifting problems/Tiagra STI Flightdeck


It sounds like the limit screws on your derailleur body are out of adjustment. They are usually small phillips head screws on the body of the front and rear derailleur that limit the travel of the derailleur body on the rear so that the chain cannot get shifted into the spokes or off the smallest cog into the frame. On the front they prevent the chain from shifting off the inside or outside cogs. There are good articles under front and rear derailleur adjustments at this site:http://www.parktool.com/repair/byregion.asp?catid=53 I hope this helps.

Aug 11, 2009 | Cycling

1 Answer

Problem with gears cant get fifth, sixth and seventh


Shift your bike to its highest gear and release the cable on the rear derailleur. Adjust your shifter adjustment knob to fully turned in and the rear derailleur's adjustment knob to the middle of its range. Pull the shifter cable taut and re-tighten. Now you should be able to span your gears. Go to your middle gear and set the rear derailleur by using the adjustment knob to center the jockey wheel on the drailleur (what the chain rolls on) over the middle cassette cog. You should be good from there, but you might need to adjust the high/low settings, too, although it is doubtful. If you do, for high you want the jockey directly over the smallest cog and for low you will want it ever so slightly past the largest cog towards the spokes, but not TOO far past. i usually go 1/2 the width of the cog past it.

Jul 27, 2009 | Cycling

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