Recently replaced the heating element due to the element being burnt apart in one spot. The dryer ran ok without any problems for about two months. We then began to experience tripping of the braker in the house braker box. It was found that our dehumidifier and water heater also appear to connect into this braker as they have no power when it is tripped.
Today the dryer runs but there is no heat. I took the dryer apart and found that the black wire that runs from the motor terminal block directly to the heating element was burned off at the terminal connector for the heating element. The motor was replaced under warranty on 1/29/03 and the heating element (and bearings/wheels were replaced on 2/17/09. The rigid metal dryer tube and inside of the dryer was cleaned of all lint when the element was replaced; it is still clear/clean today.
I suspect that an over current situation is occurring inside of the dryer and that caused the wire to burn. What would cause it?, A bad temperature sensor, thermal limiting switch or thermal fuse? What is the most common or most likely cause?
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Re: AMANA dryer model ALE643RBW burnt wire
I would think that:
Low voltage. A lack of proper voltage increases the current flow (amps) and can cause overheating, thus, a burnt wire. Remember, the lower the voltage, the higher the amps.
Bad connection. Poor connections can cause small amounts of arcing, thus burning the connection. This adds resistance to the circuit which causes a possible voltage drop and, again overheating due to higher amps.
Since all that equipment is on the same circuit, I would really think it is a voltage drop situation. With everything calling for power at the same time, the breaker trips. In some cases, it may be just enough for the breaker not to trip but still have a low voltage situation.
There is the possibility of an over current, such as a power spike from the power company but it would have to happen more than just a time or two.
And the outside chance that lighting got into the system when it struck something close to you home but it, in almost every case, would destroy something else, usually electronic. (This has happened to me. Trashed my dryer, dishwasher, and answering machine.)
Good luck and hope this helps. Le me know how you come out.
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Igniter element is likely cracked. Inspect igniter for small burnt spot on dark gray or black part of ignitor. Crack maybe invisible to the eye, still will prevent function.
It may fall apart in your hand if handled. Did you remove it yet? Replace it. Generally quite cheap.approx $20. Avoid getting finger oils on it.
Make sure the vent from the dryer to the outside is clean.
Reduced air flow can cause your symptom.
You can remove the vent hose from the dryer and operate the dryer in the automatic cycle.'
If the timer advances you know the vent needs cleaning.
Clean the lint filter housing also.
A flashlight helps to see all the way down the housing.
if all other operations of your dryer are ok possibly your heater element or thermostat are faulty also there may be damaged wiring you will need to look closer and own a multi meter to check properly keep me informed of how you went
If you remove the back panel you will be able see the drum rollers. There's a good chance they may be worn out. As long as you are replacing the rollers I would suggest replacing the belt at the same time.
Typically when the rollers wear out, the drum drops ever so slightly and the drum wears on the front and rear drum to cabinet seals.The added drag can cause a slow drum and squealing noises.
Good luck, let me know if there is anything further you need.
Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating? A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating: - house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug. A ohm meter test for these parts is here. Q - My gas dryer will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating? A - Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating: - glow bar igniter, thermal fuse ( not all models ), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats,motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor. A page for checking gas dryers is here. Meter testing and usage tips. 1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter. 2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work. 3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode. 4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element. 5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches. 6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter. 7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuityacross a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ). But darn it, I don't have a Ohm Meter.... To check the thermal fuse - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.To check the thermal cut-out - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only. To check the thermostats for continuity - - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only. To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.
It could be a circuit breaker, fuse, or electrical problem. Just because the motor runs doesnt mean it will heat.
You should check for power first.
Then unplug the dryer remove the lower front panel, two screws.
Mark and label any wire you remove so you know where they go!
in the back on the left is the heating element, check for burnt wires, take the element out and check for a broken wire on the back side also check all the thermostats, and electrical components to make sure they are good.