Lh4500 type 2

Any modern type furnace made after 1978 will have a imtermittant pilot as opposed to the old standing pilot our water heaters still use today
(thank god!) They also dont have any belts, pulleys, or oiling ports as in days of yarn, the motors are sealed for life typically, and if a cheaper quality type unit is used then they will have two oiling ports, onthe fan motor itself, 1 of which will be readily acessible anyways so oiling 1/2 the motor isnt a real benefit to you for your dollar spent to have done as a symbolic gesture as if a witch doctor etc! To access the oil ports would require removing the blower housing and motor from blower housing as well and if I ever have my unit that far down, I will simply buy a newmotor for 50-75 bucks and forget about it for another decade rather than reinstall the old and end up paying some gypsy 400 bucks to change it out in 2-5 years in all probability, There are no ways to test the safeties as everyone says they do, and some really do,. but what that means is they fire up your unit with the fan unplugged and run it to see if the hi limit safety trips ever or not !! theymay take it up to meltdown and it trips and
they sayy ok limit checks out good ,even though it opened at 850 rather than 150 !! torture testing it to be sure!! it may be a test but is it sabotaging the unit to prove nothing !! yes it is ! manually advancing a limit to test it alsocan break it as its a simple bimetal coil that spirals andas it expands and contracts fromheat it snaps a switch for fan i heat mode as well as opens a hi limit safety if temps go too high!so simply twisting it to prove the switches work may prove the switches work when twisted , but doesnt mean they do from heat accurately or that twisting bimeatls manually can break them and ruin them!!

So most of the fallacies of the tune up we covered , Now we go to reality and actual benefit to you and the unitand not a raz ma taz softshoe shuffle of a tech who is likely told 300$ a call min or he willbe gone soon! regardless of how good he is , i fact the best techs may maje a company less cash as he is fixing others callbacks and notcredited for the real repairand time etc, ad extra unneeded parts mean more $ for the shop! so oil the inducer draft motor at the burner area, remove the tubing frothe pressure switch (small disclike size of coke can bottom aprox w/2 wires) check hose for cracks ,leaks . moisture trapped, and the orifices the tubing attached to, especially onyhe inducer motor housing , needs to be reamed out with a small drill bit toclean out carbon etc, that is cause of 1/2 the calls with these type furnaces, remove, replace the air filter, and if you are using the high efficient type lifetime dustless type air filters, they are real good at cleaning the units air, but they slow down the air to the system by 1 ton of air or refrigerati ! and as typical home unit is 2-5 tons that is a big deal! a 3 ton sytem with high eficiency filter willhave 2 tons of air rather than 3 as needed to operate! so use the toss away 99 cent see through types and change monthly,! that alone is the biggest difference you will ever make on your equipment!