Question about Whirlpool MH1160XS Convection/Microwave Oven

1 Answer

Replace blown fuse

The cook top light burnt out and broke during attempt to remove it. Further attempts (power to light was still on) caused a short in unit. It appears that a fuse might have been blown because the microwave still works but the fans have all stopped working. So the questions are...1)where is this fuse located. 2)can the part be purchased and where? 3)can it be accessed by consumer for repair?

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  • Whirlpool Master
  • 9,047 Answers

We see (and repair) this a lot. The problem is on the control panel, which we regularly repair nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in about a week.

At our Web site, you can get details of our service, plus we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

This light failure often occurs when a bulb goes out and the filament shorts, or when the bulbs are removed or installed without first unplugging the oven from the power line. Either can cause such a failure on the controller.

The lights fan can be inoperable or stuck on or no bright, too. Sometimes this will similarly affect the exhaust fan operation, too.

On the off chance that it's only a fuse, there should be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

If you don't find yours, or if you want to look at it without disassembling the oven, you can download it here.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number from the tag on the oven here.

Feel free to contact me directly (and please remind me of your full model number) for more information & help.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller
prototech@usa.net
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

Posted on May 12, 2009

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Troubleshooting Guide


  • Problem: Totally dead oven.
    Possible causes:
    1. No power to outlet (blown fuse or tripped breaker or GFCI).
    2. Blown main fuse - likely due to other problems.
    3. Open thermal protector or thermal fuse.
    4. Defective controller or its power supply.
    5. Clock needs to be set before other functions will operate (some models).

  • Problem: Totally dead oven after repair.
    Possible causes:
    1. Cabinet screws replaced in incorrect location (safety interlock not engaged).
    2. Any number of screwups. :)

  • Problem: No response to any buttons on touchpad.
    Possible causes:
    1. Door is not closed (some models).
    2. You waited to long (open and close door to wake it up).
    3. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    4. Defective interlock switches.
    5. Faulty controller or its power supply.
    6. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    7. Defective/damaged touchpad.

  • Problem: Oven runs when door is still open.
    Possible causes:
    1. Damaged interlock assembly.
    2. Cooling fans (only) running due to bad sensor or still warm.

  • Problem: Oven starts on its own as soon as door is closed.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective triac or relay.
    2. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    3. Defective controller or its power supply.
    4. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    5. Defective/damaged touchpad.

  • Problem: Oven works but display is blank.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective controller or its power supply.
    2. Broken display panel.
    3. Oven needs to be reset (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).

  • Problem: Whacked out controller or incorrect operation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Previous or multipart cook cycle not complete.
    2. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    3. Defective controller or its power supply.
    4. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    5. Defective/damaged touchpad.
    6. Defective sensor (particulalry covection/mirowave combos).

  • Problem: Erratic behavior.
    Possible causes:
    1. Previous or multipart cook cycle not complete.
    2. Bad connections in controller or microwave generator.
    3. Faulty relay - primary (or HV side, much less commonly used).
    4. Defective controller or its power supply.
    5. Bad contacts/connections on mechanical timers. Intermittent fuse.
    6. Power surge at start of cook cycle confusing controller.
    7. Microwave (RF) leakage into electronics bay.

  • Problem: Some keys on the touchpad do not function or perform the wrong action.
    Possible causes:
    1. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    2. Defective/damaged touchpad.
    3. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    4. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Microwave oven does not respond to START button.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective START button.
    2. Faulty interlock switches.
    3. Door is not securely closed.
    4. Faulty controller.
    5. You waited too long - open and close door to wake it up!

  • Problem: No heat but otherwise normal operation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Blown fuse in HV transformer primary circuit or HV fuse (if used).
    2. Bad connections (particularly to magnetron filament).
    3. Open thermal protector or thermal fuse.
    4. Open HV capacitor, HV diode, HV transformer, or magnetron filament.
    5. Shorted HV diode, HV capacitor (will blow a fuse), or magnetron.
    6. Defective HV relay (not commonly used).

  • Problem: Timer and light work but no heat, cooling fan, or turntable rotation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective (lower) door interlock switch or door not closing fully.
    2. Faulty relay or triac.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when closing or opening door:
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective door interlock switch(s).
    2. Interlock switch knocked out of position.
    3. Misaligned door.

  • Problem: Loud hum and/or burning smell when attempting to cook.
    Possible causes:
    1. Shorted HV diode, magnetron.
    2. Burnt carbonized food in or above oven chamber.
    3. Shorted winding in HV transformer.
    4. Frayed insulation on HV wiring.

  • Problem: Arcing in or above oven chamber.
    Possible causes:
    1. Burnt carbonized food deposits.
    2. Exposed sharp metal edges.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when initiating cook cycle.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective interlock switches or misaligned door.
    2. Shorted HV capacitor.
    3. Shorted HV diode.
    4. Shorted magnetron (probably won't blow main fuse but HV fuse if used).
    5. Defective triac.
    6. Old age or power surges.
    7. Defective HV transformer.
    8. Short in wiring due to vibration or poor manufacturing.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when microwave shuts off (during or at end of cook cycle).
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective triac (doesn't turn off properly).
    2. Defective relay.
    3. Shorting wires.

  • Problem: Oven heats on high setting regardless of power setting.
    Possible causes:
    1. Faulty primary relay or triac or HV relay (not commonly used).
    2. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Oven immediately starts to cook when door is closed.
    Possible causes:
    1. Shorted relay or triac.
    2. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Oven heats but power seems low or erratic.
    Possible causes:
    1. Low line voltage.
    2. Magnetron with low emission.
    3. Faulty controller or set for wrong mode.
    4. Stirrer (or turntable) not working.
    5. Intermittent connections to magnetron filament or elsewhere.
    6. Faulty primary relay or triac or HV relay (not commonly used).

  • Problem: Oven heats but shuts off randomly.
    Possible causes:
    1. Overheating due to blocked air vents or inoperative cooling fan.
    2. Overheating due to bad magnetron.
    3. Bad connections in controller or microwave generator.
    4. Faulty interlock switch or marginal door alignment.
    5. Faulty controller.
    6. Overheating due to extremely high line voltage.
    7. Stuck stirrer fan resulting hot spots detected by sensors.

  • Problem: Oven makes (possibly erratic) buzzing noise when heating.
    Possible causes:
    1. Fan blades hitting support or shroud.
    2. Vibrating sheet metal.
    3. Vibrating transformer laminations.
    4. Turntable or stirrer hitting some debris.

  • Problem: Oven light does not work.
    Possible causes:
    1. Burnt out bulb :-).
    2. Bad connections.

  • Problem: Fans or turntables that do not work.
    Possible causes:
    1. Gummed up lubrication or bad motor bearing(s).
    2. Loose or broken belt.
    3. Bad motor.
    4. Bad thermostat.
    5. Bad connections.

on Mar 30, 2008 | Kenmore 80412 Microwave Oven

1 Answer

I shorted out the counter lights on my frigidair microwave. The microwave works but not the lights. I've replaced the bulbs. What next?


The metal base may have fused together from electrical arcing when the old bulb was removed. The entire bulb receptacle (socket) will have to replaced. If you cannot do that yourself, the cost would be excessive. Just live without the light as long as the microwave gets the job done.

Dec 10, 2014 | Frigidaire FMV157GB Over-the-Range 1.5 Cu....

1 Answer

GE Advantium 120 SCA1000DWW03 blowing 20amp fuse


Our unit was doing the same thing,
took it into the repair shop, they said there was nothing wrong with the unit, replace the main breaker that supplies power to microwave and try again.
Sure enough the breaker became defective, and we never had issues with it before, but now the unit has not had a single problem.

Feb 13, 2014 | GE Advantium SCA1000H Convection /...

1 Answer

When I turn on the microwave for cooking, a fuse 20amp burnt, then i replaced the fuse and set it for cooking and the fuse 20amp. burnt again,


okay this means that your microwave is having a short problem check the varistor across the primary winding of the low voltage transformer probably it is burnt that cause it to short or it is shorted without sign..cut away varistor from the connection and put in a fuss then see what it does.good luck.

Sep 13, 2011 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

Stopped working mid a 2 min set. no lights no clock display,


The most common cause of this type of failure during the cook cycle is the fuse melts causing a dead condition. To replace the fuse the cabinet has to be removed and the fuse replaced with the same type and amperage. Pay attention to the fuse holder to make sure it isn't burnt or corroded causing a poor connection which overheats the fuse.

Jun 21, 2010 | Kenmore 63252 Microwave Oven

2 Answers

Over the stove microwave just stopped working. Circuit breaker was not tripped.


Sounds like the fuse is blown, you will have take the outer case off to find the fuse and replace it

Sep 07, 2009 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

Panasonic NNA554W blows 10a fuse when microwave comes on


Possibly the interlock monitor switch is bad or out of adjustment. This switch is designed to create a short circuit across the power line (and then blow the fuse) if you attempt to defeat the door interlock and operate the oven with the door open. A shorted capacitor or diode could also cause the fuse to blow. Because of lethal voltages inside and the possibility of microwave leakage if repairs aren't done correctly, you are best off leaving microwave service to professionals.

May 15, 2009 | Panasonic NN-SN657SMicrowave Oven

1 Answer

GE Advantium SCA 1000 top rear cooking bulb blown


Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. First please disconnect the power of the main fuse or circuit breaker panel and remove the screw from the side of the light compartment cover and lower the cover until it stops. Now gently pull the bulb from the receptacle. Raise the light cover and replace the screw and then connect the oven with the mains and switch it on.


Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.


Thanks

Rylee

Feb 25, 2009 | GE Advantium SCA1001SS Convection /...

4 Answers

Flash and Bang on Closing Door


Since you know that the bulb is blown that needs replaced. I would go ahead and replace the bulb and see if it works. I doubt that it will. If not unplug the unit and remove the exterior case. Locate the secondary fuse and replace it with the same size and rating. Plug in and try but be prepared as it may do the same thing again. I am not sure what you mean by 'lay up' your unit. If it was not running (heating) it should not be the magnatron. Sounds like the bulb blew taking out the fuse which would cause the other problems you described following the flash. Good luck.

Jun 12, 2007 | Kenmore 63672 Convection/Microwave Oven

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