Question about Kenmore 63942 Dryer
Runs but doesn't get hot the dryer is about 14 years old. Could it be the heating element or is it something else?.
There are several things that can cause a dryer not to heat properly. First and foremost, a dryer needs proper air flow in order to work properly. Routine cleaning of the dryer vent hose should be done periodically. I recommend once per season (4 times per year), depending on use. If you haven't cleaned the dryer vent any time recently, start here first. It could be that you have a simple clog somewhere.
Now...if you've already thought of that, you could actually have more going on INSIDE the dryer. If your dryer is equipped with a removable front kick panel, remove it by inserting a putty knife along the top seam (about 2 inches in front each side) to release the retaining clips. The panel should pull open, exposing the heating element and blower housing. On some models the heat components can be accessed by removing the back of the dryer.
Stand back and watch the heating element with the dryer running. If it is glowing and intermittently shutting off, this is NORMAL. You probably have a clog some where INSIDE the dryer. You will need to unplug the dryer and remove the air blower housing to see if it is clogged with lint. I have found these blowers so clogged that the fan gets jammed with lint and snaps off at the shaft. If the fan doesn't spin, there is no air flow and you clothes will not dry. In this case, the blower fan will have to be replaced.
If the heating element is NOT glowing, and you have verified that the dryer is not clogged, you may have a failure with any of the following components:
HEATING ELEMENT - located inside a heat box. Unplug dryer and remove connector leads from element. Check resistance of the heating element. It should be about 10 ohms. If it is OPEN, the heating element is bad.
THERMAL CUT-OUT - located on the heater box housing. Has two leads running to it. Designed to protect the heating element in an overheat condition. Check resistance to ensure it is reading something close to a SHORT (0 ohms). If it is OPEN, it must be replaced. It is highly recommended to replace the HI-LIMIT THERMOSTAT (which is also located on the heater box, closer to the heating element connectors). The two components work in conjunction to regulate the heating element temperature. If the TCO fails it is usually for a reason. It could be a simple matter of general house cleaning, or it could be a failure of the hi limit thermostat.
I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know what you find. Post back with any comments and/or questions.
Posted on Oct 13, 2007
I found the solution to be very informative and helpful. However, I checked the resistance of the heater element and it is about 10 ohms, and is not open. The TCO resistance is about zero. What about the thermostat? No values were given to check it for, but I did check it's resistance and it was also close to zero. The thermostat sort or "rattles" when I shake it; is that normal?
I pulled the heater element out and looked at it, and can see no visible damage. Also checked the air outlet and hose - no blockage in the hose and the air output at the dryer seems fine.
What else could be causing the dryer to not heat. Have checked at all cycles and temperature settings (low, medium and high)?
Posted on Sep 16, 2008
I've had the same problem and we replaced the high limit thermostat that located on the bottom section of the heating element. $16 repair and it's running like new!!!
Posted on Oct 16, 2008
Is it worth our while when not rated! good or bad????
Posted on Dec 04, 2007
Ok here goes this is what I found wrong with my Kenmore Dryer 110 64112200 would not heat correctly and we quit using it (wasn't drying the clothes) The Motor Your Dryer uses most likely the same as mine on (110 series)
all these different forums and sites say You need a motor. Alternating Current Squirrel cage motors are very robust and unless locked up or a open wire coil they work, now that being said the Bottom wire on My motor plug is Red and is connecting L1 and L2 to turn on the Heating Element when the Centrifugal Motor switch is Released because the motor is up to Speed (Turning the Drum) I removed the Motor and opened the black Plug on the Motor the Switchable Contacts inside for the Heater element on the Bottom were fused together. This Condition caused my Heater Element to come on As Soon As I Plugged the Dryer in, caused the timer to tick and it also caused the motor to hum upon pushing the start Button and me having to help the motor start (Spin the Drum By Hand). The Motor would let the Drum stop as soon as the you put any clothes in the drum. The Reason is because since the Red Heater Element Wire Contacts were Welded together in the Motor Plug, when the Centrifugal switch on the motor shaft would release the switch it could not close the contacts for the Motor START Capacitor (the reason that the motors Hums, it can't start). Without the Start Capacitor the AC Motor can not start so it just hums unless you help it. Now also since I Broke the Fused contacts apart again the Motor can start and I Can not stop the Drum Motor Works Fine and the Heater element works Fine. Just some Information the Motor Centrifugal (Fly Weights) Switch is a Double Gang Switch so the motor can start, come up to speed and at the same time Close the Heater Element circuit. Hope this helps Somebody. Myself I can't see spending $82.85 for a motor I don't really need.
Posted on Nov 10, 2014
Posted on Nov 17, 2011
I have a 100 dryer and I replaced the heater element. I have two connection points one is one wire and the other goes through the thermosat to the heater coil. Does it matter which post of the heater coil goes to what wire?
Posted on Jul 24, 2010
Thank you for this, I found it useful.
Posted on Nov 22, 2007
How do i get the front panel of a model #110.86980 off? i need to replace the door lever in the upper right corner to activate the dryer
Posted on Oct 16, 2009
I found this helpful although I did had already checked the heating coil, it wasnt glowing, I figured it was on of the two mentioned but I dont have the ability or tools to check the ohms. But yes it did confirm what my problem may be, thanks
Posted on Nov 29, 2007
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hi, Check all the thernostats and the thermal fuse for continuity. They should all show a closed circuit. If any of them are open, it will need replaced. It is usuallly the thermostat on the top side of the element housing.
I hope this helps you. If I can assist you further, please let me know.
Posted on Jun 28, 2009
SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer Model 110
Using a multi-meter, check to be sure that you have 220 volts at the back of the dryer. If you do, unplug the dryer, take the back off and ohm out the t-stats, thermal cut-outs and element.If you can't pinpoint it to one of these then it will be in the controls or maybe the motor start switch.
ps, The dryer motor will run on 110 volts.
Posted on Dec 13, 2007
SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer Model 110
If all of the components are reading ok then you need a timer. Touch your 2 leads together. 0 ohms rght. That means you have a complete circuit.If you get the 0 reading then the element must be otay. Bad timer. Take that fancy meater of yours and atttach one of them leads to the timer leg marked RH. Yank the wire off the terminal beore you test. Move the timer around. You should get the famous 0 reading along the way. If you don't then that means you have the bad timer.
Posted on Feb 05, 2009
did you clean out the duct that the lint filter slides into?you still have a block somewhere and sounds like you popped the thermal fuse part 3392519,unplug dryer take off vent line and remove the back panel,take out the 2screws on top of dryer and remove lint filter,on left side remove the 4 screws and remove the duct,clean it out,to the right of it and around 4 inches up from floor you'll see the white thermal fuse,read it out with a meter,also if you have a long vent line from the wall to the outside blow it out with a leaf blower and make sure the outside flapper is blowing fully open
Posted on Dec 13, 2009
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