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Please look into the freezer for frost build-up on the rear wall. If you are having a defrost problem it may limit the freezer temperature and still be cold enough for the fresh food section to remain at safe temperatures but not for long before freezer and fresh food section warms because frost blocks airflow and the evaporator is unable to keep everything cold because of frost build-up. I don't have your model number so I will list the parts that may need to be replaced. The defrost control=> 12002754 Frost Kit, defrost thermostat and 67002493 Defrost Heater Assembly
For testing of the defrost thermosat and defrost heater refer to the same page as the parts, If these parts are good the the 12002754 Frost Kit, could be defective. The 12002754 Frost Kit, can be found in the control panel inside the fresh food compartment. Let me know if you have questions and also if you are not having a defrost problem, Thanks Sea Breeze Locate your model number
THE ONLY THING THAT CONTROLS THE DEFROST CYCLE is the defrost thermostat and the actually defrost control board. along with making sure there is enough freon in the system to switch the unit over and move the reversing valve when it is time... if they have changed the defrost thermostat and you are positive the freon level is good the it appears you may have a bad board on the unit.... be advised the unit should frost up in cold temps and is normally to have frost built up on it then will go into defrost mode. if the unit is freezing over then yes you have a issue.
good luck to you
Sounds like a defective defrost timer If its a frost free upright freezer and the evaporator is frosting up with a snow like frost you have a defrost problem.. defrost themostate, heaters, or timmmer Also note that Dirty condenser coils are not the problem. It's most likely the defrost timer or defrost heater. The heater should come on about 3 times per day to melt the ice on the evaporator coils. If the defrost timer is not turning on the heater or the heater is burnt out, the coils will freeze up......
Check rear wall of freezer by feel for frost. Heavy, even frost indicates likely problem in the defrost system. Unplug unit. Defrost heater (in freezer behind rear wall panel), defrost thermostat (same area-must be checked at freezer temperature) or Defrost timer-located lower back outside of unit. Near compressor. Do continuity test on heater and defrost thermostat and if they show continuity (good), replace defrost timer. If not, replace the one that tests bad.
Defrost coils fully. Reassemble.
Please let me know if I have helped with comments and rating.
Refrigerator will work about 7-10 days after being defrosted until thick frost builds up again cutting off air flow to both compartments
How to check
check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In
most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board.
If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.
You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks
and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace
the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the
timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
The next step would be to unplug the refrigerator and remove the rear panel and defrost so that you can unplug the defrost heater on one end and check the continuity. 305175 Defrost Heater and defrost thermostat Part number 3489. If you change the defrost heater you should also change the defrost thermostat. Let me know the results. Remember above 60 degrees the defrost thermostat will show open with your OHM meter. Sea Breeze
A defrost termination thermostat could be the trouble. It could cut off the defrost heater before the temp is up high and long enough to clear out the water from defrost. the stat is either the size of a quarter or a dime depending on which you have and it is located usually on the evaporator coil. If you inspect it after running for a week after your lastm clean up it will also tell you if the coil is completing defrost. look for signs of the frost starting to build up on the evap inside coil. If it is starting this also and is most of the coil covered with frost the defrost stat and timer bothe should be replaced if you dont want to have a repeat problem. If the frost is really thick you need to check the heater as well. A bad heater usually wont last a month though. 2 weeks in 30 to 60% humidity is about all it can handle. If your humidity is lower or you dont open the doors every day 4 to 8 times or more it may last a month also. All this is assuming you ahve a self defrosting model though.