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Pieces of rusty metal in basket at end of cycle

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Bought a new washer!

Posted on May 12, 2009

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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When i turn the knob to hot water on washing machine no water comes in


The most common cause of the symptom you are describing is a bad drive block which has probably ruined your basket drive as well. Let me give a quick explination. The weight of the basket you put your clothes in is supported entirely in the center of the washer underneath your agitator. It rests on an aluminum block called your drive block. So that the basket will move back and forth while the washer agitates, there are two tabs on the drive block that lock your basket drive underneath in place. Once the drive block wears out or round down these tabs, the basket will raise slightly and "skip" across the top when the spin cyle is stopped. To verify this, you can check one of two things. First (and easiest) is put a heavy, large load in the washer, get it wet then spin it out. Once the washer reaches the maximum spin speed, open the lid. The washer should snap to a halt when functioning properly. What I belive you'll find is that even with the lid open, the basket will continue to spin. The other method to verify this is take the top of the agitator off. Next remove the bolt in the middle of the agitator and lift the agitator off. In the middle, you should find a large flat metal colored nut.In the middle of that nut, you should see two tabs across from one another. There should be two straight pieces of metal coming up from the bottom which have nice, straight sharp corners. Again, if I am correct, you will find they have been rounded off and there may even be shavings of metal visable.
To replace a basket drive and drive block, you will need to purchase the parts and also a specialty tool from removal and instalation. These will probably run you around 125-175. If you are interested in giving it a go, reply back to me and I will get you some step-by-stpe instructions typed up.

Dec 02, 2012 | Maytag Washing Machines

1 Answer

Why does washer make grinding metal sounds during wash cycle only?


When it is washing, look to see if the basket is moving at all. The basket should be stationary during the agitation cycle.

Nov 21, 2012 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

The wash basket is off and there are pieces of melted plastic in my clothes.


Check whirlpool website for recall. Check fan belt for wear. check basket housing holder for loose screws or bolts. Check to see if you purchased an extended warranty. last check to see if store you purchased from will help with repair cost if you did not get extended warranty.

Nov 09, 2011 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Machine makes loud banging noise during the spin cycle


The load is out of balance. Open the lid and redistribute the contents. When it's empty, grab the basket and give it a slight push sideways. It should move a little but, not free swing. If it doesn't have much resistance, the "snubber" has dried out and should be replaced. It is simply a piece of rubber in a metal bracket, that rests on the tub. When the basket spins,the snubber keeps it from jumping around.

Aug 31, 2009 | Frigidaire FWT449

1 Answer

Rusty basket


Appliance Parts Pro's web site they'll have it or know how to get one

Jul 29, 2009 | Dishwashers

1 Answer

Maytag lat6914aae top load washer shakes violently in spin cycle


A washer can have self leveling legs at the back. If they are rusty or clogged and not free to move, they will not self level and the machine will rock when working. Check the leveling apparatus, it's a bunch of metal pieces going across the lower back of the machine. Spray them with a lubricant and move them to make sure they are free.

Apr 27, 2009 | Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

''whirlpool duet makes big noise on hi spin cycle and sandy grey staf is coming out from drain hose''


you more than likely have a broken tripod leg on the metal basket inside, when it goes into the spin cycle the basket become un balanced and is rubbing on the inside of the front outer tub which is the sandy grey stuff you are seeing.

if its less than 10 years old it should be in warranty and you can have a whirlpool repairman fix it, you would just be reponsible for the labor, which will cost around 300

if you decide to fix it yourself, first take off the bottm panel on the front of the washer, and clean out the drain pump. (i found the cause of my problem in there, and to get the rest of the plastic shavings out. 2screws came off one of the legs of the tripod of the metal basket on mine). next you will want to take it apart, so that you can see the back side of the metal basket, (i suggest taking the shocks off the front and back of the tub asselmbly before as soon as you can get to them, they can break pretty easy.) one of the legs you will find ir broken, corroded, or missing screws.

if you have to replace any parts, the front outer tub is about 100, metal basket is 200, and shocks are 15 a piece at appliancezone.com

Apr 04, 2009 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Loud noise at end of spin cycle


The most common cause of the symptom you are describing is a bad drive block which has probably ruined your basket drive as well. Let me give a quick explination. The weight of the basket you put your clothes in is supported entirely in the center of the washer underneath your agitator. It rests on an aluminum block called your drive block. So that the basket will move back and forth while the washer agitates, there are two tabs on the drive block that lock your basket drive underneath in place. Once the drive block wears out or round down these tabs, the basket will raise slightly and "skip" across the top when the spin cyle is stopped. To verify this, you can check one of two things. First (and easiest) is put a heavy, large load in the washer, get it wet then spin it out. Once the washer reaches the maximum spin speed, open the lid. The washer should snap to a halt when functioning properly. What I belive you'll find is that even with the lid open, the basket will continue to spin. The other method to verify this is take the top of the agitator off. Next remove the bolt in the middle of the agitator and lift the agitator off. In the middle, you should find a large flat metal colored nut.In the middle of that nut, you should see two tabs across from one another. There should be two straight pieces of metal coming up from the bottom which have nice, straight sharp corners. Again, if I am correct, you will find they have been rounded off and there may even be shavings of metal visable.
To replace a basket drive and drive block, you will need to purchase the parts and also a specialty tool from removal and instalation. These will probably run you around 125-175. If you are interested in giving it a go, reply back to me and I will get you some step-by-stpe instructions typed up.

Jun 26, 2008 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top...

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