Question about Tecumseh Horizontal Tiller Engine 8 Hp, 1" X 2 57/64" Shaft, Modelno. Hm80 - 155656x

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Is the carb adjustment screw on bottom

Techumseh 5HP ST50 (c. 1979) Is the carb adjustment screw on bottom of bowl and how many turns open? And how many turns open for idle adjustment screw?

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Hello

>>The Following is an Instruction File I made for Correcting this Problem. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers.
>>There are Several Location for the Air Mixture Screws.
>>The Idle Air Mixture Screws are Usually Located at the Top of the Carburetor Bowl and the Top of the Carburetor Body.
>>If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is the Nearest to the Engine.
>>The Main Jet Air Mixture Screw is Located in the Bottom of the Carburetor Bowl or Beside the Idle Air Screw on the Side of the Carburetor Body.
>>The Engine Idle Screw is Usually Easy to Identify because you can See where it Makes Contact with the Carburetor Throttle Shaft Plate Stop Ear. The H and L Air Mixture Screws Go Into the Body of the Carburetor and the Tips Cannot be Seen.
>>Some of the Older Model Carburetors have the Main Jet Mixture Screw Straight in from the Top of the Carburetor Body (this is Rare anymore).
>>If you have Cleaned the Carburetor (Disassembled and Soaked Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air and Install a New Kit if Required.
>>Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws:
>>****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns.****
>>Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine.
>>Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle.
>>Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required.
>>Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle.
>>Reset the Engine Idle if Required. If This Carburetor has a Single Air Adjustment.
>>Use the Section Above that Pertains to Full Throttle RPM Air Mixture Screw and then Adjust the Screw if Required to Eliminate Any Hesitation when Rapidly Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle.**
>>1- http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq/lmclctc.htm
>>2- http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf .
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

jbridger (John)

Posted on May 11, 2009

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I have a logsplitter with a Tecumseh engine. Recently purchased a new carburetor, it ran fine for awhile. Haven't started since last fall. New spark, new air filter, new gas....will not start,,,help

Posted on Sep 13, 2010

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hello ,your engine is a tecumseh HMSK90-156525D, Sounds like carb. may need adjusting. Take the heat box off to expose carb. the heat box is the metal box surrounding the caeb., there should be 2 adjustment screws- 1 on the bottom of the bowl and 1 on the side of the carb just above the edge of the bowl ( depending how the carb sets off the engine - if the carb comes straight out it will be on the side facing towards the front of the snow blower or if it goes towards the handles then standing other side of the snow blower the screw will be facing you), turn both screws in til they just bottom out the turn them out 1 1/4 turns out then start the machine. While the machine is running at low idle turn the screw on the side of the carb. in (clockwise) a little at a time listening for the engine to start to rev up and then start to rev down, bog or studder then turn back slightly to bring idle back up. Once the idle is up then the screw on the very top of the carb. turn that out to lower idle to a normal idle. Repeat those adjustments till you cant get the idle to go up anymore. Now for the screw on the bottom of the bowl- move the throttle up to max and turn the screw in till you hear it rev up higher and starts to bog or sputter then turn it back slightly to bring the high rev to a smooth rev. That should take care of it. If it does not solve it then the carb may need cleaning then the adjustments done again. If you need more help on this please feel free to ask. Sometimes you have to do process of elimination and you start with the easiest first. Also the adjustments should help with the carbon build up on the plug.692509.pdf (application/pdf Object)
i have included the manual to give you a good understanding of the carb, page 7 to 25, hope this helps,don't forget the 4 thumbs up,any comments welcome,thank you.00

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hello ,your engine is a tecumseh HMSK90-156525D, Sounds like carb. may need adjusting. Take the heat box off to expose carb. the heat box is the metal box surrounding the caeb., there should be 2 adjustment screws- 1 on the bottom of the bowl and 1 on the side of the carb just above the edge of the bowl ( depending how the carb sets off the engine - if the carb comes straight out it will be on the side facing towards the front of the snow blower or if it goes towards the handles then standing other side of the snow blower the screw will be facing you), turn both screws in til they just bottom out the turn them out 1 1/4 turns out then start the machine. While the machine is running at low idle turn the screw on the side of the carb. in (clockwise) a little at a time listening for the engine to start to rev up and then start to rev down, bog or studder then turn back slightly to bring idle back up. Once the idle is up then the screw on the very top of the carb. turn that out to lower idle to a normal idle. Repeat those adjustments till you cant get the idle to go up anymore. Now for the screw on the bottom of the bowl- move the throttle up to max and turn the screw in till you hear it rev up higher and starts to bog or sputter then turn it back slightly to bring the high rev to a smooth rev. That should take care of it. If it does not solve it then the carb may need cleaning then the adjustments done again. If you need more help on this please feel free to ask. Sometimes you have to do process of elimination and you start with the easiest first. Also the adjustments should help with the carbon build up on the plug.692509.pdf (application/pdf Object)
i have included the manual to give you a good understanding of the carb, page 7 to 25, hope this helps,don't forget the 4 thumbs up,any comments welcome,thank you.~~

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i have included the manual to give you a good understanding of the carb, page 7 to 25, hope this helps,don't forget the 4 thumbs up,any comments welcome,thank you.~~

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i have included the manual to give you a good understanding of the carb, page 7 to 25, hope this helps,don't forget the 4 thumbs up,any comments welcome,thank you.~~

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Wherearecarbajustmentson03harleyfatboy


If the carb is a factory carb and has not been modified, there is only one adjustment on the carb. This is the throttle stop screw to set the idle speed with. The only other adjustment is the idle mixture adjuster screw but it's covered with an "anti-tamper" plug to keep people from messing with it. It has been set at the factory to meet EPA regulations. You cannot adjust the idle mixture unless you take the carb off the bike and locate the small plug just behind the float bowl. Drill a small hole in the plug. Drill lightly and just enough to punch through the plug or you'll damage the brass mixture screw under the plug. Then put a sheet metal screw into the hole and pull the plug out. Then, you'll see the idle mixture screw that the EPA does not want you to adjust. Once this is done, take the float bowl off and locate the slow speed jet in the carb. It will down in a deep hole beside the main jet holder. Take it out with a screwdriver and see what size it is. It should be a #45. Replace it with a #48 or a #50. While you're at it, take the top off the carb and remove the slide. Take the needle holder out of the slide and remove the needle. Put a 3 mm flat washer that is about 0.020" thick on the needle from the long end. Use a small dab of grease to hold the washer on the needle and reassemble the carb. Be very careful to get the slide diaphragm back into it's slot around the top of the carb. Do not pinch it or you'll have to replace the slide and diaphragm. It ain't cheap. Put your carb back on the engine with a new intake manifold to carb seal. Start the engine and allow it to warm up and then adjust the idle mixture to the highest smoothest idle. I believe the bike will run a lot better and a lot cooler.

Good Luck
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ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors.

Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side or bottom of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Install a new stock NGK spark plug. Remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the
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< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the
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Please rate this solution. Thanks!

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1 Answer

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ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors.
Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).

Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side or a plug on the bottom of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw/plug then replace it after the fuel drains. Remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the
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< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Put the
carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine.

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Please rate this solution. Thanks!

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1 Answer

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Sounds like carb. may need adjusting. Take the heat box off to expose carb., there should be 2 adjustment screws- 1 on the bottom of the bowl and 1 on the side of the carb just above the edge of the bowl ( depending how the carb sets off the engine - if the carb comes straight out it will be on the side facing towards the front of the snow blower or if it goes towards the handles then standing other side of the snow blower the screw will be facing you), turn both screws in til they just bottom out the turn them out 1 1/4 turns out then start the machine. While the machine is running at low idle turn the screw on the side of the carb. in (clockwise) a little at a time listening for the engine to start to rev up and then start to rev down, bog or studder then turn back slightly to bring idle back up. Once the idle is up then the screw on the very top of the carb. turn that out to lower idle to a normal idle. Repeat those adjustments till you cant get the idle to go up anymore. Now for the screw on the bottom of the bowl- move the throttle up to max and turn the screw in till you hear it rev up higher and starts to bog or sputter then turn it back slightly to bring the high rev to a smooth rev. That should take care of it. If it does not solve it then the carb may need cleaning then the adjustments done again. If you need more help on this please feel free to ask. Sometimes you have to do process of elimination and you start with the easiest first. Also the adjustments should help with the carbon build up on the plug.

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