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Small relay on PCB making loud noises for no reason

Sony D50 es surround amp. audible "clicking" from PCB mounted relay small white device 8 legs rearmost location on PCB closest to largish BLUE speaker relays. noise occurs when, hot or cold ambient. amp is hot or cold. any input or output selected. any speaker zone selected. with speakers in OFF position. noise will come and go for no apparent reason. has no effect on audio output. noise is of mechanical nature only. (PLEASE NOTE IT IS NOT A SPEAKER RELAY)

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There should be a circuit designation on the PC board for this part. Can you please post that. I'll lok up that part in the manual and try to figure out what is happening.

Thanks,
Dan

Posted on May 11, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Battery keeps dying if not started daily. clicking noise in front passenger leg area up against the wall on the side in front of door. Will start fine after quick jump


most likely the vehicle has a parasitic drain, cause by that clicking noise. honestly, i'm not familiar with your vehicle, i suspect that the clicking noise is from a relay? going bad. pull that relay? (or something) that making noise & have it tested. ( look for the fuse feeding that relay? & remove temporarily to prevent drain & if it does not affect drivability of the vehicle without the fuse.)

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When i turn it on, the light dims in the room, and if i hold down the power button, after a few seconds there is an audible click from inside.


The click is the power safe relay opening to shut of power to the pcb before it blows up. As is the lights dimming its crossing power there is a bad short in the amps pcb it needs a tech to look at it 10_3_2013_2_18_35_am.png

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1 Answer

Cp9430r


Fixed Hunter ceiling fan with remote light pin out wiring 9 wire plug search words
Hunter Ceiling Fan with remote, fails to turn on light, fails to turn on fan..remote receiver is Cp9430r
1) Test your remote, Hunter uses Radio Frequency remote, point RF remote one inch from antenna of working AM radio, press each button on remote, each button will produce static sound from AM radio, if no sound..check battery wiring or solder connection on loop antenna of remote. If no sound on one or more buttons, disassemble and wash key pad with dish soap, rinse and fan dry, retest. If still one button no work apply graphite paint to button to rebuild conductivity of button.
2) Cp9430r receiver is below fan and above light. Remove light assembly, check receiver dip switches, mine was #5 On 1~4 Off, check remote control dip switches in 9v battery compartment also set #5 On 1~4 Off, new 9v battery still no Fan reversal "click" sound heard coming from the large Blue fan reversal relay located inside the Cp9430 receiver. All other buttons control transistors and will make no sound even if they are working.
3) Disassemble / unplug 9 wire plug from Cp9430r receiver, place receiver on wooden table, 9 wire plug has two empty pin squares, one empty in the center, the other empty we will call #1 ..counting clockwise #2,#3...#4,#5..#6,#7and finally top center next to empty #1 is #8. Now #8 is 110v hot/black ...& #4 neutral/white.
4) Shock Danger..carefully apply ac volts to pins #8,#4 use tape if needed, locate quad operational amplifier i call it radio receiver chip HA17324 on board, google HA17324 Datasheet, locate leg #14 it is across from leg #1. Locate small yellow ceramic capacitor very near leg #14, use capacitor's neg as neg for voltmeter, test volts at #1,#7,#8 and #14. My #1 was 3.1v, #7 3.2v, #8 3.25v and #14 .01v ...why #14 so low? I monitored each leg while pressing remote control buttons...no changes. **Desperate, I sparked (1/2 second or less) #14 with 3.14v from positive leg of yellow capacitor** and retested all legs, no change except now #14 rests at .02v and jumps to 2.5v~2.8v when any button on the remote is pressed then rests at .02v. Now Lights work, Fan speeds work, Reverse rotation Works :-)
Pin Out on 9 wire plug, #1 Empty pin, #2 Alternates w up/down fan rotation, #3 goes to 5uf fan capacitor other side of cap goes to white/neutral AC Line, #4 AC Line neutral, #5 goes to Triac? speeds? , #6 Alternates up/down fan rotation goes to up/dn blue relay, #7 goes to up/dn blue relay looks to be AC hot looking for fan probably paired with #3 changing sides at up/dn blue relay, #8 AC Line hot in. Why did **sparking** work, smarter people might know, i think a small spark got stuck in the chip and sparking helped the chip release it out. No electrical education, novice. Jer. 51 8,9 and 11

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1 Answer

Cat number ED25TEXHW00, side by side, Whirlpool Refrigerator. Neither fridg or freezer will cool. Lights turn on & condens fan runs. Compressor will not kick in. What to look for???


If the compressor will not kick on what you have is either a bad compressor or a bad starting device. Generally the unit will try and start and after 8 seconds or so you will hear a loud tick. That indicates the relay is bad. If the compressor is bad it will usually make a loud humming noise.

The start device is plugged into the side of the compressor. Unplug the frig. You can simply take off the wires to the start device (remember where they go!!!!!) and pull it off. You have two piece, the overload and the relay. The relay is the piece that is most likely the problem. Some machines will have these put together in a white plastic block. You can shake this entire piece and if you hear loud rattling it is broken. Sometimes the relay is visibly burned and blacked where it plugs into the compressor. Anyway, if you do not have this white plastic relay/overload combo, the relay is a brown square shaped plastic piece. Shake it and see if you hear rattling. If not, chances are very good the relay is ok, and the compressor is locked up.

Compressor changes are expensive and unless the frig is extremely nice and cost a pretty penny, they aren't worth fixing. Relays and overloads should not break $100 for the parts, and any tech should be able to change one in under 10 minutes. So if it's a relay fix that puppy! good luck :D

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1 Answer

Sony DA50ES makes loud and scary clicking noise after its been on for about ten minutes, its loud enough to be distracting and annoying while watching movies. I'm wondering if I need to buy a new receiver...


Is the noise audible through the speakers or is it a physical clicking directly from inside the receiver?

If the former, what source(s) do it and are they digital or analog?

It doesn't appear there is a fan so NO physical noises should emanate from the receiver. I'd suspect an arcing component or something electrical. THAT might be dangerous to the receiver or even a fire hazard. Get it looked at.

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Your noise sounds like it is power train related,If you have eliminated the engine,Since it doesn't make the noise while moving and in neutral.
It sounds like a universal joint in the drive shaft.Do you notice a vibration
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1 Answer

On my 1994 ford ranger my turn signal don't work at all


Turn signals depend on a small relay switch to function. It makes an audible clicking noise when the signal is engaged. If there are no blown fuses in your box, then this is my next suspect.
This relay switch is typically located under the dash near or on the fuse box panel. Even on a 1994, this relay should be a plug and play item.

Other thoughts. Make sure all bulbs are working. Some older models come on but won't blink when a bulb is out. There are other relays mounted in a box under the hood. Check all your fuses, and relays... before tearing it all apart.

Do your hazard lights work? If these are out as well, then its a sure bet that little relay is bad.

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Distorted sound


This is an automatic high end amp. Make sure you are using 8 ohm speakers. If the connections are correct, also use good quality speaker wire.

If this makes no difference, it seems that it would need to go to the repair shop.

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Amp making clicking noise at varied times


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