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Dryer not heating

My Maytag Performa Dryer model PYE2300AYW will not heat. It will turn on, but no heat is coming out. We cleaned out the vent and took the front off and cleaned out the lint from the front panel. How do we get to the heating element and thermal fuse to test it? Thanks!!

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BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN WORKING ON ANYTHING WITH AC POWER CONNECTED !!

There is at least one thermal cut off switch.
It is a two terminal device usually mounted near the heating element or in/near where the hot air exhaust leaves the dryer.

It should be closed (shorted) all of the time. It should ONLY open when dryer overheats. Check it with an ohm meter with AC power disconnected. It should be a short. If open replace it.

You can also check it with power connected but you must be VERY VERY CAREFUL !!
Connect an AC voltmeter set to read 250 VAC across the switch.
Run the the dryer.
It should measure zero VAC.
If the switch opens it will measure about 220 VAC.
If it opens when it has not overheated, replace the switch.

Posted on May 11, 2009

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I have a maytag performa electric dryer model #pye2300ayw, rev 10 -- sometimes I need to run the dryer 3-4 times to get a load dried. I checked the outside vent and there is alot of hot air coming out, the...


We had this same problem recently. Don't know if your problem is the same, but I am sure it could be.
While we did have hot air coming from the outside vent, it was still a restricted vent duct that was our problem. I went to Lowes and bought a dryer vent cleaning kit for about $40 (I figured I needed to do this anyway, as I'd been hearing about how many housefires are caused by the heat buildup from poorly breathing vent tubes/ducts), and cleaned the whole length of the duct (and replaced the plastic flexi-tube inside with a metal one).
I had thought I had good air-flow before doing this, but oh my gosh, what a difference this made! And I couldn't believe the pile of nasty, damp lint that came out!!
Anyway, our dryer immediately went from requiring 2-3 cycles to dry a load of clothes, to doing a great job the first time through! Perhaps the same solution would help you. I hope so!

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doesn't matter,it's either good or bad,when you touch the meter to it if it reads 1 and doen't move it's bad if you get any reading it's good,if the dryer is loaded with lint in the duct that the lint filter slides into and the vent line is blocked it will keep popping on you, clean out the dryer,number one cause for popping the thermal fuse

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The element issue could be a contact fused shut.
With both problems I would be looking for wires melted together, or a relay/sequencer welded shut melted etc.

You do have a potential fire hazzard here. If after removing the panel you cannot locate the problem, do not run the unit.

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When reattaching the gas line, be safe not to overtighten the coupler. A safe test for leaks is NOT a match... a drop or two of dishsoap around the fittings will bubble if it is not sealed. Good Luck

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