Question about Kenmore 62802 Electric Dryer

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Dryer just quit

I have a Kenmore 90 series that stopped working.  Was working fine in the morning.  Went to dry again later in the day and when I pressed start button, it made one sound and died.


I opened the grey panel at back, but see no fuse.  Where is the reset switch?

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  • deb108 Oct 15, 2007

    You have been quite helpful.  I printed out your instructions, and I do believe it is the thermal fuse.  My problem is I cannot get the back panel off.  I took out all the screws and removed the console (lifted it off the base) since the back panel is tucked under it.  But it seems the back panel is soldered onto the dryer.  Could that be?  I can't figure out how to get the panel off to get to the thermal fuse.

  • deb108 Oct 17, 2007

    I called an Appliance Repair guy and I want to share a couple of things I learned.  On Whirlpool-made Kenmore machines, never take off the back panel.  Everything is done from the front.  Re-aligning the back screw-holes was a bear and the repair guy's 1st reaction was, Oh my God.    The bottom of the dryer has clips to the door panel that he released with a knife.  After the tope comes off, there are screws to the left and right that must be taken off, which allows the front door panel to pop off.  The drum must be removed to get to one of two thermal fuses.  There is one on the heating unit itself, to the middle-rear on the right.  The other fuse is in the front of the machine once the drum is removed.  He said that the thermostat fuse probably blew first and the thermal fuse was a backup.


    It wasn't cheap, but it was cheaper than a new dryer (and more responsible to fix the old one). 



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There is no reset switch and there is no fuse inside the console.  I posted comments to your solution under the premium problem section.  I believe you could have a bad thermal fuse which is located in the rear of the dryer.  I left instructions for you to follow.  Let me know if you need further assistance.

Posted on Oct 12, 2007

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  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Oct 15, 2007

    You may need to remove the top panel in order to get the back off.  When you lift up the console look for three 1/4 inch screws holding it in place.  If so, remove the screws and the top should slide towards you then lift up.  Make sure you unplug the dryer first.  There is a 240VAC terminal block right in the area where you will be working.  The back panel should NOT be soldered on.  Double check and make sure you have removed ALL the screws from the back.  You will also have to remove the dryer vent hose in order to get it to come off.

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Oct 17, 2007

    I thought I had asked whether or not you had a lower kick panel on your other posting.  There are two general configurations when it comes to the standard dryer (no matter what manufacturer).  Ones with the heating element inside the dryer under the drum, and ones with the heating element in the back of the dryer (this model has the lint screen on the top of the dryer and you have to remove the back panel to get to it).  I apologize for any difficulties you may have had, but I'm glad you were able to get your problem resolved.  And one more thing, the high limit  thermostat and thermal cut-out are usually replaced in pairs as a precautionary.  It has been a common problem to replace the thermal cut-out while leaving an old thermostat in place only to have to come back a week or so later to replace both of them again.  Since the two work in conjunction, it's always a good idea to replace them both with new components.  Good luck to you.

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Oct 17, 2007

    PS Did your repairman also explain to you that the high limit thermostat and/or thermal cut-out generally blow for a reason?  This is usually a symptom of poor ventilation.  Meaning, you need to clean the ducting or air baffle of any obstruction.  It is also recommended to clean the ducting EACH season (4 times per year).  This will keep the lint accumulation to a minimum.



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