The engine requires more fuel at higher loads. If unit sat up for some time the jets in carbureator may have become partially plugged due to varnishing. If this is the case, the easiest fix, is to add 'Sea Foam' fuel system cleaner to gas tank. engine may have to run several minutes for this to work. I reccomend tripling the dosage amount reccomended on the label. This should also resolve the problem if fuel starvation is caused by 'sticking needle and seat' problems. If engine stalls with an abrubt clunk, then unloader problems may be responsible. I unit sat up for a long-long time, you may be better off removing the carbureator and rebuild it or have it rebuilt professionally.
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If nozzle is partially clogged, it can cause unloader valve to shift back and forth from high pressure to bypass. Air in the feed line can also cause this symptom. Some Karcher models have auto start/stop system which can behave this way if worn out, or out of adjustment.
Sounds like it's shutting off due to high pressures in the system. Do you have gauges to read the system pressures? One thing that would cause this is too much freon in the system, or too much oil. Did the compressor come with oil in it or did you add oil to the system? Too much oil and/or freon will give high pressures and the high pressure switch will shut the system off. Or the high pressure switch could be damaged, maybe even unplugged is a possibility. If it is plugged in you could try unplugging it and seeing if the compressor keeps running for longer than 3 seconds, if it does pressures might be too high. It could also be a bad relay getting hot and kicking off. Try switching relays and see what happens. Another possibility is the low pressure switch but not too likely in this case.
When the compressor shuts off, can you turn it by hand? If not, high pressures or even a bad compressor are possible.
Lot's of possibilities. Just have to wade through them. I'd start with the relay and then check the pressures.
The Bronco has TWO fuel pumps, a low pressure and a high pressure. Low pressure is located in the fuel tank, the high pressure is located....Attached to the LH frame rail ahead of the fuel reservoir. my guest would be the high pressure pump is getting hot and shutting off, cooled down and starts back up again ??
Most of the time it is due to fuel lock - very hot engine. Easy to check, run engine with gas cap loose (not with full tank, fuel may spill out). Replace cap or open vent if necessary. Other problems include low or dirty oil causing oil senser to shut down engine, or hot engine due to obstruction of airway under cover and finally pressure set too high. I find that most pressure washers are set to max pressure. I like to set pressure to 70 % of capacity making components last longer. How long would a car/truck last if you drove it at max speed everywhere? Good luck with your repair.
Hi, sounds as though you may have several problems, or I should say there are several things that will cause a unit to short cycle and then shut down. First of all, the head pressure in the system if it is getting to high, will cause this unit to shut off on its high pressure switch. When it shuts off the pressure will drop and the switch will reset on auto and start again just to do the same again. Shut the power off to this unit. Take a water hose and give the coil that surrounds the condenser a good washing out. Be careful not to bend the fins down on it as this will prevent air from being released to the outside air. Use a nozzle and adjust it as needed. If the problem was a head pressure problem, this will stop it from short cycling. If I were on site with my manifold gauges, I would no right away if it was a head pressure problem. After doing this, if it starts to do the same thing again, being low on freon will also cause a system to short cycle. If it was fine 2 days ago, I doubt if it is low on charge. Make sure the outdoor fan is up and running as this will cause it to go off on high pressure cut-out. This does sound like your problem. What happens is the coil gets dirty over time and the air can't be removed properly. The compressor will start and the pressures will rise very fast and shut of with in a few seconds. After a few attempts to run, the compressor will lock out on internal overload until it cools off and resets its self. It may take 5 to 30 minutes for it to start and try again. Do the cleaning process I have asked not getting water directly into the electrical control panel, but give this coil a good washing. If this system has a return air filter somewhere, make sure it is clean. Do this and get back to me and let me no if this solved or helped at all. If not, we can go from there. Just look me up with my user name. I do believe its just a plugged condenser coil. The symptoms are as you describe to me. Please get back to me. I hope the best to you, Shastalaker7
It is very likely you are having a problem with the low oil pressure switch or the high temperature switch. Both of these are connected to the No.85 wire which in turn goes back to the control board. If the temperature exceeds the predetermined level (apprx 305 degrees F) the high temperature switch will then ground wire 85 causing the unit to shut down. Same thing with the oil pressure switch, if the oil pressure switch goes below 10 psi the low oil pressure switch will ground wire 85 causing the unit to shut down. To determine which is causing the problem disconnect first the low oil pressure switch (Located by the oil filter) and start unit if it contunues to run after 10 seconds and does not shut down then the oil pressure is the problem. Then you must use a mechanical pressure gauge connected where the low oil pressure switch is to determine if you actually have less than 10 psi of oil or if the low oil pressure switch is just bad. Try the same thing with the high temperature switch also located close to the oil filter if you disconnect it and it continues to run more than 10 seconds then you have and engine that might be overheating. Anything that gets caught in the air intake on the generator itself ill cause this unit to overheat, I've seen it **** garbage in through the air intake and cause the unit to overheat because of poor air flow. If their are no restrictions and you have good air flow than chances are you have a bad high temperature sensor.
The reason it stops spraying might be a clogged gun, hose or nozzle-tip.
The reason for pressure buildup killing the engine might be a stuck unloader valve in the pump.
While you are checking each component of the "output" side, spray some penetrating lube into the "input" side of the pump (where the garden hose connects) and let it be working on the unloader valve.
Fix the spraying problem first:
Start at the nozzle and verify that it is open by using low-pressure air. Clean or replace as needed. Next check the hose (with nozzle and gun unhooked) and finally the gun/trigger mechanism.
All must be clear and open to perform correctly.
Next, pour a few ounces of power steering fluid (or similarly LIGHT oil) into the garden hose, attach it to the pump and turn on the water supply.
Leave the "output" hose, gun, etc. UNHOOKED and point the output port of the pump (where the high-pressure hose connects) towards a vacant, safe area.
Startup the engine and allow the oil in the garden hose to work its way thru. (About 1 -3 minutes of run-time.) Shut it down and attach the high-pressure hose.
Hope this solves the problem!
Most Honda engines have an oil pressure switch that prevents engine damage due to low/no oil pressure. Make sure there is sufficient oil in the engine and that the wire is connected to the pressure switch.