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Dometic rm2611 not restart after cooling box normally, then warmi

Performed rebuild of dometic rm2611, 921 57 11-01, including rebuilt cooling coil, new re-ignitor, thermocouple, new circuit board and new display. refer starts and cools great, and shuts off gas upon reaching cool temp in box and freezer. will not restart automatically after warming to re-start temp. if refer turned off manually, and then turned on, re-starts without hesitation. thermistor not replaced

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  • dhschultz39 May 11, 2009

    placed new thermistor on order today, but since it's an analog device, don't expect a new one to do the trick. removed gas valve already, cleaned with MEK (no evidence of contamination), and cycled numerous times with 12 v source. functioned perfectly a dozen times.

    re-ignitor is not firing when demand for cooling is initiated (after refer cycles off, change set temp on display panel to colder) - if ignitor not seeing 12 volts, gas valve doesn't see 12 volts.

  • dhschultz39 May 13, 2009

    thermistor replaced with new one on 5/12/09, tested over-night - same result this morning. i.e., refer had cooled normally (melted ice on freezer tray), but not restarted, and "check lite" on. turned refer off, then in 15 sec back on. refer started normally, and is cooling now. obtw - gas valve still cycles normally with external 12 volts applied.

  • dhschultz39 May 13, 2009

    thanks for input, but in response to your sol'n, camper is on a level, roller cart, stored in a shop in seattle, wa. outside temp is ave 45 degrees, and thru all testing have had camper side cover over refer removed. don't think outside temp is a problem.

    obtw - replaced thermistor yesterday with new, and as suspected, no difference in symptons; i.e., started normally, cooled, shut off, and then illuminated the check lite when restart called for due to rising temp in the box. upon shutting refer off this morning, then turning on, refer started on first firing of re-ignitor, and is cooling normally now.

    i'm beginning to believe the new controller board is faulted - about 7 days old.


  • dhschultz39 Jun 02, 2009

    tried second main control board (PPL Mtrhomes, Ron Hunt, in Texas, great about replacing electronic stuff), made no difference in symptoms. internet research revealed lots of problems with dometic boards. found supplier (dinosaur electronics, inc.; lincoln city, or.; tel: 541 994-4344) that produces board that eliminates problems of dometic board plus lots more + offers 3 yr guarantee. bought, installed, problem corrected. ($154 incl shipping and hdlg).

    fixya techs no help.


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Yes - your issue is definately the controller board... intermittant problem usually is from bad solder joints. Parts CAN fail directly out of the box - although highly unlikely.

Thanks for using FixYa

Posted on May 13, 2009

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Your fridge is working against outside air tempurature and any solar heating effect. To maximise the operation of your fridge allways try to park the unit so the fridge side will be in the shade. Do you have a fan to create the air circulation in the back of the fridge? There are kits available for this. I use a recovered converter fan and have it set up in the bottom of the fridge cavity below the coils and blowing straight up. This helps a lot. The kits normally come with a 80 degree F temp switch, I have a leftover toggel from some where for mine. I don't think your fridge is the problem. I don't think a new one will fix it. Your best bet is to do the kind of thing I have above and it should work better. Hopefully good enough. Good Luck

Posted on May 11, 2009

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I would replace the thermister and also check the gas soleniod. Don't those get weak once they get hot or warm. Hope this helps.

Posted on May 10, 2009

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