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Posted on Dec 03, 2013
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I have a non-working outdoor GFCI outlet. I purchased 2 new GCFI outlets and neither of them worked either. I connect the black line to the black line screw, the white line to the white line screw, and the ground wire to the green screw. I know the line is live because I partially fried a screwdriver (I know, not smart). When the wires are exposed, I can actually trip the fuse (rated 20 amp) when I want to. Any ideas? Thx.

1 Answer

Jim Goldsmith

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  • Master 2,005 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 03, 2013
Jim Goldsmith
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Joined: Apr 08, 2009
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Ground circuit fault interuptors must be wired to four wires
see: http://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/gfci-outlet-switch-wiring.html

  • texcritter Dec 03, 2013

    Does it need 4 wires if it's the only thing in the circuit? There's only 3 wires in the box.

  • texcritter Dec 04, 2013

    I see the problem. The previous owner put a switch in the line, prior to the outlet, to toggle between 120V and 240V.

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 5 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 22, 2009

SOURCE: New Single Feed switch/outlet not working

Hi there, first what is your porous for the device? Do you want the switch to feed the outlet or do you want the switch to be independent? (switch feed outlet)---- black feed to gold screw on switch. then from lower screw on same side to outlet (this should be black also)> remembering to tie neutrals with wire nut in rear with pig tale to switch. hope this helps.

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K W

  • 509 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 03, 2010

SOURCE: wiring switch and GFCI outlet tandem, so that

There should be 2 screws at the top that say LINE. This is where you connect the power wires. The 2 screws at the bottom should say LOAD. That is where you connect the second outlet.

A

Anonymous

  • Posted on Oct 04, 2010

SOURCE: I am replacing an old intermatic model EJ341

GE 15086 is a 7-day programmable timer. It has more wires than spring-wound timer because clock motor runs on 120V circuit, just like ordinary electric clock. The clock on spring wound timer operated by a spring.
f7d4104.jpg


If I understand correctly, the old timer has 2 wires. One of these wires is the Hot wire ... and that wire will connect to GE timer black wire.
The other wire from old timer goes to Load ... and that wire will go to GE timer red wire.

Instructions on a lot of these timers say, it timer doesn't work, then reverse the two wires described above ... this is because timer only works when Timer black connects to Hot.

You can also turn on power and test each wire that came off old switch to bare ground wire. When tester lights up, that is Hot wire.

GE timer Green wire connects to bare ground wire.

Moving on to GE timer white wire. This wire is necessary for the clock to run. This wire connects to Neutral wire which is usually white. You can test for Neutral by testing Hot wire to each white wire in box ... when tester comes on, that is Neutral.

If you do not have a white Neutral wire, then connect GE timer white wire to bare ground wire. This is not code, but it will work fine until you hire electrician to run Neutral into box.

A

Anonymous

  • Posted on Dec 08, 2010

SOURCE: Cooper Industries Cooper Wiring 274W Switch and

Switch-plug combo:
bare ground goes to green screw
dark screw goes to hot from breaker
silver screw to neutral
brass screw goes to load (light)

Add a comment any time
You are replacing single pole light switch?
Single pole switch has 3 wires: black and red and bare copper

New device has 4 different colored screws: green, dark, brass, silver
Bare copper goes to green screw.
Black wire goes to dark screw
Red wire to brass screw
Nothing on silver screw for a moment. Test circuit and make sure light turns on-off.
If lights works, then good so far.

Now let look at silver screw. Neutral wire has to connect to silver screw.
In back of your electrical box are white wires twisted together and covered with wire nut.
These are neutral wires.
You must connect another short piece of insulated wire to these neutral wires and run that wire to silver screw.
The neutral wire will complete circuit to receptacle.
If you do not have neutral wire, then receptacle will not work in that box without additional wiring.

Hook up neutral wire to silver screw.
Now turn on power and click switch again.
If circuit breaker trips, then reverse your red and black wires.
Otherwise this should be correct wiring.

A

Anonymous

  • Posted on Jan 19, 2011

SOURCE: We are trying to install

You are installing a combo device with switch and outlet.
The outlet is tamper resistant so a child cannot stick a key into outlet and get shocked.
For the outlet to work, a 2-prong plug must be inserted.

Wiring the device:
Electricians don't guess, they test.
Device has different colored screws: dark, silver and brass.

Separate wires for testing.
Do not unwind wires that are twisted together.
White wires that are twisted together and located in back of box are included in testing.
Use ordinary 2-lead tester.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away from power.
Turn power ON.

Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot wire. This wire connects to dark screw.

Hot is identified.
Test Hot wire to all other wires, except bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Neutral wire. Neutral connects to silver screw.
If you do not have a Neutral wire, then outlet will not work for that location.
You can get the outlet to work by connecting bare ground to silver screw, but that is violation of code.

Last wire goes to Load (light, fan, motor).
Load wire connects to brass screw.
In your case, this is red wire.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on switch or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

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Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer

4 wiring device

if you can see which pair of black and white wires belong to eachother it will make things much easier. take a volt meter and test which black wire is the one coming from the breaker box. the white wire that is paired up with the black are the feeding wires to that outlet box those wires will go on the "LINE" side of the GFCI receptacle. The other black and white wires go to the "LOAD" side. (silver screw for white and brass screw for black) the two copper wires should be connected to the back of the outlet box and if so, take one of the wires and also connect it to the green ground screw on the GFCI plug. if they are not connected to the outlet box, be sure to connect them securely
1helpful
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I have (7) 20W bulbs on a newly wired line running on a brand new 200W Malibu transformer, worked fine for 2 days and now it's tripping the reset button - Any suggestions ??

1) Copy following link for malibu power pack tips for longer transformer life:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Malibu-power-pack-stopped-working.html

2) Two plug choices on each outlet, Plug power pack into other outlet on receptacle.
Inspect for damage on outdoor outlet.
Replace outdoor outlet, and do not use quick connects. Connect wire directly to screws on side of device.
Replace GFCI outlet.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

2helpful
1answer

Have b/r/w coming in....b/w go to old duplex outlet...black from outlet to switch..red direct to light switch...want to replace duplex with gfci and add a two switch device, one switch controlling existing...

Hi Augie, I'm an electrician and can help you with this problem.

First, a couple of notes. You must provide GFCI protection for a fixture (light, fan, etc.) in a shower under any of the following conditions: 1) If the manufacturer specifies this protection in this location (nearly every fan in a shower requires this protection), 2) If the local / state electrical code requires it (the National Electric Code does not have such a requirement) and 3) If the local wiring inspector requires it. You can argue with the inspector if there is no local / state requirement - but is usually not worth the effort.

Next, cautionary notes: Nuisance tripping of GFCI devices have nearly been eliminated in newer fixtures and small motor loads. Some older fluorescent fixtures and larger motor loads may cause some trouble - but that's about it especially if an inspector is requiring the protection (this happens pretty often). If a newer light fixture is tripping a GFCI device - something is wrong. This should be fully checked out before powering it again. There is a very real potential for shock or burns under the right conditions. Use extreme caution here. Maybe a new fixture is in order??

Finally, to your question. Most GFCI outlets have LINE and LOAD terminals. This means that anything connected to the LOAD terminals will have the benefit of GFCI protection. The line terminals however, are not protected.

If you connect the circuit that you do NOT want to have GFCI protection to the wires that will be connected to the LINE terminals, no GFCI protection will be afforded to them.

The circuit that you DO wish to have GFCI protection should be connected to the LOAD terminals. Since you can not secure two wires to a terminal, you will need to connect a short length (8") of insulated wire to each of the line terminal screws (silver and gold screws) and connect the other end to the wires that supply power to this GFCI outlet *and* the wires that will provide non-GFCI protected power to the light fixture through the switch; with wirenuts.

Basically, the jumper from the outlet to the switch can not come from the LOAD terminal - instead it must come before the protection - from the wire that brings "hot" power to the LINE terminal side. The same holds true for the white neutral wire that connects to the fixture; it can not come from the LOAD terminal - it must come from the wire that brings "neutral" power to the LINE terminal of the GFCI outlet.

I hope this helps and good luck! If you have more questions - ask away.
0helpful
1answer

I hooked up a 20amp circuit breaker to a 15amp recp. then to a 20amp gfci but my outlet tester reads open nutral. what's wrong?

You've lost a neutral connection at: one of the terminals somewhere; inside the outlet; broken strap between the neutral pads on the standard outlet; or the tester is providing an erroneous indication.

Does it read OK on the BOTH receptacles of the first outlet? Check the terminals that provide output on the first outlet and the LINE terminals of the GFCI . Bad at the first outlet? Check the input on the first outlet. Bad? Check splices between outlet and service panel and neutral connection at neutral bus bar inside panel. OK? Check the input to the GFCI - make sure on LINE terminals and proper polarity is observed.

Double check the line and load terminal screws of the GFCI outlet. Make sure that the power coming into the GFCI is connected to the LINE terminals. Be sure to connect the HOT and NEUTRAL wires to the proper LINE terminals. Neutral conductor (white) connects to the silver colored screws and hot (black or red) connects to the gold colored LINE screws. If you are sending power out to supply additional loads that are to be GFCI protected, the rules above apply - but connect to the LOAD screws.
1helpful
1answer

I want to install two GFCI receptacles in an outside box. One is the Cooper with the on/off switch and the other a Eagle GFCI (no on/off) can/should this be done? and if so, how? We have wired it several...

Question is a bit unclear and wires are not known.
Are both GFCI devices inside same box?
Not necessary to install 2 GFCI devices inside same box since second outlet/switch can be protected using one GFCI.

1) Typical GFCI outlet device has 4 terminal screws (plus green ground screw for bare copper ground wire)
2) Two of the screws are labeled LINE. These screws are where the black Hot wire and white Neutral wire are connected. Black goes to brass screw and white to silver screw. And now the device has power to outlets, and both outlet are GFCI protected.
3) Two of the screws are labeled LOAD. These screws are where you attach additional outlets/switches that you want protected by GFCI. All outlets connected to LOAD screws would be GFCI protected. So attach black and white wires and run them to an ordinary outlet/switch and it will be GFCI protected. The key is to connect wires to the LOAD screws.
4) If you are using the outlet/switch combo GFCI device, then the same wiring shown above applies. The difference is the wires sticking out of back of device are for the switch. For example if switch controls a light, the wires going to the light connect to the two wires on back of device.
3helpful
2answers

Outdoor electric recepticle GFI tripped (I'm guessing during recent rain) and will not reset. Would this indicate faulty GFI or something wrong in system. This was installed about 2 yrs. ago and has been...

if the outlet was wired right and working fine before -- then ' yes ' the GFI has tripped and it could have failed do to the rain. replace the outlet with a new GFI outlet and I would also suggest that since you have the outlet outside that you install it into a outdoor weather proof outlet box.

c...
1helpful
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I bought a new GE 20 amp GFCI circuit breaker and installed it to a new outdoor curcuit with two separate outlets. everything seems to work fine - polarities ok etc. connnected the white gfci line to the...

You can buy an inexpensive GFCI tester for as little as $10-$12. A better one with several mv settings will cost you a bit more. This way you can test this circuit and even GFCI receptacles. Then you'll know for sure if your breaker is working.
1helpful
1answer

How do I swap a grounded electrical outlet for an ungrounded outlet in an old house?

While a lot of people have replaced a lot of 2 prong ungrounded outlets with 3 prong outlets, as you probably know, it is an unsafe practice. The National Electric Code (NEC) permitted method is to replace the 2 prong outlet with a 3 prong GFCI outlet such as this:
http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-Outlets-Plugs-Outlets/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xg4Zbp9i/R-202026815/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

For multiple outlets, the usual practice is to install the GFCI outlet at the first outlet in the circuit, then regular 3 prong outlets can be used to replace 2 prong outlets in all the downstream outlet locations as long as the "no equipment ground" stickers that come with the GFCI outlet are used and they are now GFCI protected outlets, per NEC.

Finding the first outlet in the circuit is not always easy. First, determine which outlets are on the circuit, then starting with the outlet closest to the electric panel, disconnect the wires and see if all the other outlets went out. It's kind of trial and error.

Once you have found that first outlet in the circuit, connect the hot wires coming from the electric panel to the LINE terminals of the GFCI and the wires going to the downstream oulets to the LOAD terminals of the GFCI. Full instructions come with the GFCI outlet.
The GFCI receptacles sold today won't work if connected incorrectly, so you will soon know if you did it wrong.
Once the GFCI outlet is installed at the first outlet, all of the downstream 2 prong outlets can be replaced with 3 prong outlets, using the stickers mentioned above to indicate that the outlets are not grounded.
Strange as it sounds, all downstream outlets _must_ be ungrounded when using this method.
Aug 29, 2010 • Hammering
0helpful
1answer

Hi, I recently had problems with my gfci outlets. I have 4 outlets connected to a gfci circuit and I cant get the other outlets to work if nothing is plugged to that one outlet at the end. The gfci outlet...

that is truly a strange problem, has there been any rewiring going on? almost seems that it wired in a series instead of a paralell circuit and the end one completes the circuit when something is plugged in. i am not sure how to tell to fix this other than to go thru the whole circuit.

at the gfci the line side, or the hot wires supplying it should be hooked up to the line side of the gfci. the wires feeding the rest of ur outlets should be connected to the load side of the gfci.

then at each outlet the hot wires both line and load should be hooked up to the brass or gold looking screws and the neutrals should be hooked up to the silver screws. this way u should have power on all the outlets.
1helpful
2answers

Outdoor Outlet Does Not Work

Your outdoor outlet(s) may already be ground faulted: often these outlets are fed from an existing GFCI outlet; check your bathroom(s) or kitchen for a GFCI receptacle. Use the tester he mentioned to see if it is live – be SURE to get a tester with the button on it that checks GFCI's as well – if the tester button kills the GFCI from any outlet on that circuit, you know the GFCI is working. Using the tester in your outdoor outlet verifies the GFCI AND the wiring to your outdoor outlet – something the GFCI's 'test' button can't do. ...Wilzard
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