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Timer not shutting and and not heating

I have a Whirlpool front loading gas dryer that is about 4 years old. All at once the timer is not shutting the dryer off and it is not heating. Any suggestions?


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  • northern_pin May 11, 2009

    It is a gas dryer. The drum turns and the timer will go from the 60 minute mark down to 0 but never shuts off. The air eventually dries the about 6 hours!! This will NOT help my electric bill, I'm sure. Any help you can give me would be great!!




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Hi, Is this a gas or electric dryer? The heating problem is causing the timer not to advance. Let me know which type dryer and I can get you through this.


Posted on May 10, 2009

  • Victor
    Victor May 11, 2009

    Ok, You need to make sure the ignitor is working. Some models have a small capped hole lower left front corner and some models you need to remove the front panel. If you have to remove the front panel, You will have to take the tub out of the machine before testing ignitor. When the dryer is turned on, the ignitor will start to glow. Glowing for about 20 seconds, the gas valve should open so the flame will come on. If the ignitor glows but you get no flame, You will need to change the coils on the gas valve IF You are sure the gas is turned on to the machine.

    NOW, if you start the machine and the ignitor does not glow, you will need to unplug the dryer and check all the thermostats and the non resetable fuse. When you check these thermaosts and fuse, you need to check for continuity. Hope this is helpful.



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Admiral Dryer Model #AGD4475TQ No Heat

This is very rare on a gas dryer but I have seen it. If you have already replaced all that other stuff I would say it has to be inside the timer. On one I worked on once I could remove that orange wire and the dryer would function ok so I ordered a new timer, they sent me a bad timer. Same problem. I finally got a working timer after going through a bunch of mess. That fixed it. So if all the other components are working it very well could be the timer.

Dec 02, 2013 | Admiral Dryers


I have an electric whirlpool dryer about 4 years are my issues and any...

This advice is for all ELECTRIC Dryers that have a "No Heat" problem.

Symptom: Dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat.

Any of the following components are more than likely suspect as being bad:

Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat

All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.

If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.

If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.

Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel. (HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier). If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

I hope this information is helpful to you. If you need further assistance, please go to my profile at: and use the "Ask Me" feature for a quicker repsonse to your questions/comments.

on Nov 30, 2009 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

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Gas dryer timer will not turn in heavy or light heat settings. will turn on perm press setting. i replaced timer and that did not help. unit not drting like it use to. took 1 hour to dry 4 pair of paints....

gas coils part 12001349,you can tell if they're bad by running the dryer and if after 15 to 30 minutes the ignitor doesn't light the coils are bad,the coils will work fine most of the time until they heat up then they fail,if the timer is on auto the timer will not move if there is no heat,when the heat shuts down the timer moves when the heat comes back on the timer stops,no heat timer won't move, unplug the dryer,take off the vent line and remove the back panel,on the left side there is the metal shute that the lint filter slides into, pull out the filter and remove the two screws on top where you pulled the filter out,take the four screws off,i can't remember if the shute can be removed on your dryer,if you can remove it or slide it to the right and pull it out so you can get your hand in the back of it and clean it out,stick a vac in the bottom of it and give it a good cleaning,if you have a long run from the wall to the outside on the vent line blow it out with a leaf blower,you should also take off the front panel and vac that out so you don't have a fire,there's an open flame in there so you want to make sure it's clean, this should be done once a year,if this doesn't help and the coils aren't shutting down, there are two thermostats in the back,one on the blower wheel housing and the other on the right side on the heat duct,i would change them out,hope this helps,if i can help you with anything else let me know

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I have a whirlpool gas dryer, 4 years old. i

It sounds like the heating filament below the drum has either fried one of the fuses down there, or has some lint or something fallen on to it.
Did you notice if the drum still heated up? If it did, then its a bit trickier to completely ID what went wrong. If it no longer heats up now, then the thermal cut-off fuse has been blown and will need to be replaced (most common problem with a dryer)
Typically, once it is unplugged, you can open up the panel below the door (there are normally a couple of latches along the top gap that you need to push in with a couple of screwdrivers to open). Once open, you should see a heating coil that provides the hot air to the drum, look to see if there is anything in contact with the coil. If there is something there, remove it. If not, then continue below.
Now, if your dryer has stopped heating up, you need to pull the coil and replace the thermal cut-off fuse (or get someone in to do it for you). If it was still heating up, you can start the dryer with the panel open (make sure everyone and everything is well clear of the opening) and see where it is smoking from.

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I would be suspect of the timer. Same thing happened to mine.

Rotate the timer manually a few degrees and see if the dryer operates properly. If so, replace the timer, a simple thing to do. Cost is about $75.00 and available from SearsPartsDirect.

Reply your findings and I will help you more.

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Dryer doesn't get hot or turn off.

yes very possible timer but my guess on the times i seen the problem would be the heating element are the thermo fuse on the elemnt canister when the heater does not come on the timer will not move ck the heater and the fuses on the heater canister it will fix your problem

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