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Timer not shutting and and not heating

I have a Whirlpool front loading gas dryer that is about 4 years old. All at once the timer is not shutting the dryer off and it is not heating. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

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  • northern_pin May 11, 2009

    It is a gas dryer. The drum turns and the timer will go from the 60 minute mark down to 0 but never shuts off. The air eventually dries the clothes....in about 6 hours!! This will NOT help my electric bill, I'm sure. Any help you can give me would be great!!

    Thanks


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Hi, Is this a gas or electric dryer? The heating problem is causing the timer not to advance. Let me know which type dryer and I can get you through this.

Vic

Posted on May 10, 2009

  • Victor
    Victor May 11, 2009

    Ok, You need to make sure the ignitor is working. Some models have a small capped hole lower left front corner and some models you need to remove the front panel. If you have to remove the front panel, You will have to take the tub out of the machine before testing ignitor. When the dryer is turned on, the ignitor will start to glow. Glowing for about 20 seconds, the gas valve should open so the flame will come on. If the ignitor glows but you get no flame, You will need to change the coils on the gas valve IF You are sure the gas is turned on to the machine.

    NOW, if you start the machine and the ignitor does not glow, you will need to unplug the dryer and check all the thermostats and the non resetable fuse. When you check these thermaosts and fuse, you need to check for continuity. Hope this is helpful.

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This is very rare on a gas dryer but I have seen it. If you have already replaced all that other stuff I would say it has to be inside the timer. On one I worked on once I could remove that orange wire and the dryer would function ok so I ordered a new timer, they sent me a bad timer. Same problem. I finally got a working timer after going through a bunch of mess. That fixed it. So if all the other components are working it very well could be the timer.

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Tip

I have an electric whirlpool dryer about 4 years old..here are my issues and any...


This advice is for all ELECTRIC Dryers that have a "No Heat" problem.

Symptom: Dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat.

Any of the following components are more than likely suspect as being bad:

Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat

All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.


If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.

If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.

Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel. (HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier). If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.


I hope this information is helpful to you. If you need further assistance, please go to my profile at: http://www.fixya.com/users/jsrock516 and use the "Ask Me" feature for a quicker repsonse to your questions/comments.

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It sounds like the heating filament below the drum has either fried one of the fuses down there, or has some lint or something fallen on to it.
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