How to loosen screws to remove blades from Ozito OZPL400A planer
The first step in the manual says ''Loosen the hex head screws with the spanner provided.'' There are three screws (actually bolts with hex head nuts) holding each blade in place. I can't get enough leverage with the spanner provided to get the nuts loose. I've tried WD40 but some of the nuts won't budge. Any suggestions? Thanks!
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Re: How to loosen screws to remove blades from Ozito...
WD-40 is nice for some situations, but not this particular one. I suggest you use something like Liquid Wrench. Apply, tap the nuts on each side with a metal punch, and a very small hammer. Not hard! You're just trying to bust any rust loose, and give the liquid wrench a chance to ease down in there. Just tap!
How are you holding the bolt head on the other side? If these nuts are so corroded that this method won't free them, you make want to see if a 1/4 inch air ratchet wrench is available. The wrench is shaped in a 90 degree angle, so it should fit down in there. Have any mechanic friends? The bolts may break. It may come to this. Be sure the bolt head is held secure, so that no damage will come to the planer. If they, or it, breaks, you can just replace them. Make sure they're Grade 5 or above, bolts and nuts.
I've had to use a small propane torch to heat the nuts. The rust breaks free. I hope it doesn't come to this.
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Quick-Change Blade Mechanism
Higher-end models, such as the Linefinder Orbital Jigsaw, feature a clamping lever to hold the saw blade. To change a blade, switch off the jigsaw, unplug it, and let the used blade cool down. Pull up the saw-blade locking lever and let the used blade fall out with a slight shake. Turn the jigsaw upside down. Hold the fresh blade with its teeth forward; insert the blade shank into the blade holder as deeply as it will go. Release the lever and wiggle the blade to confirm that it's snugly in place. For models with rollers, such as the Accu-Trak, nestle the blade against the rollers.
Clamp or Hex Screws
Loosen the pair of screws -- on the front of the mechanism of models such as the single-speed jigsaw -- a full turn counterclockwise with a flathead screwdriver, but do not remove them. The used blade will fall out. Insert the new blade fully into the clamp. Lightly tighten each screw alternately and then fully. On older models, you may find a single hex screw on the side of the blade. Loosen this enough to remove the blade, and then insert a new blade carefully so the teeth face forward. Retighten the screw.
If it is anything like my 12 1/2 inch mastercraft planer you will need to remove the dust guide first, and then the drum with the blades will be visible. To remove the blades you need to loosen the bolts with the appropritate sized crecent wrench. Seems to be the only part of my planer that does not require an allen wrench actually.
If the blades are hard to remove, you will have to remove the blade clamp completely in order to clean everything up. Your blades are probably gummed up from use. If you have a small torch available, you may want to try heating it up a little, this will release the blade (if you are using HSS blades). Be carefull not to melt any plastic in the surrounding areas. If you are using the micro carbide blades you should be able to press the blades out from the side using a scrap piece of wood without removing the screws (just loosen). Use mineral spirits or lacquer thinner or alcohol to clean all surfaces so your new blades will seat properly.
There are two adjustments. First find the screw on the right side that allows loosening of rear baseplate. Once loose, another screw jacks the base up or down. They are both hex heads on mine.
Turn jack screw until a straight edge along the base just clears the cutter. Spin the cutter once to make sure both edges are the same depth and that both clear the straight edge.
For the front shoe, turn adjustment handle to zero. Remove the adjustment handle from the front shoe and find two vertical slots at the front. Two screws (hex heads) allow loosening of shoe. Once loose, the shoe can be adjusted by sliding up or down. With a straight edge held along the rear base and touching the front base, align the front shoe so straight edge barely clears blade and tighten screws. The front and back base should line up. Replace adjustment lever and recheck zero cut clearance as well as maximum depth. Readjust as necessary. If zero clearance is not an issue, the bases can be set to allow deeper cuts than factory specified. It's a powerful planer so if you're cutting softer woods, a deeper cut might be desired.
OK first raise the cutting head. Loosen the screw that holds the guard in place and move out of the way. Find the spindle lock on the right hand side of the gearcase and turn blade by hand (UNPLUG SAW FIRST) until it locks. With the wrench supplied with saw put it on the blade bolt and turn it clockwise to loosen, it has left hand threads, remove outer flange and blade. Let me know it you need any more help
the screw is a flat head but you need a long series screwdriver you have to loosen the screw first then turn the blade sideways remove then place new blade in sideways turn to straight then tighten screw again its not too hard at all best of luck glenn.......