Question about Frigidaire GLRS264ZA Side by Side Refrigerator

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Timer blows Fridge quit working. Got the timer out and looked at it and there is a black spot on it where it has blown. Purchased another timer and put it in and the same thing happened, the new one blew also, in the same place.

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Re: timer blows

Sounds like something is shorted to ground.  My guess would be the defrost heater which is behind the back panel in the freezer.  Take off that panel and unplug one end of the defrost heater.  Check from the end you unplugged to ground (frame) with an ohm meter and if it shows resistance then the heater is your problem.  Heater may even be obviously broken. If shorted then replace heater and timer.  Let me know what you find.

Posted on Oct 12, 2007

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This may have come too late to do any good but I'll post it anyway.

Let's start with the simple.

Verify the lights turn on when you open the door. If not and you know the lights are good, check your circuit (breaker/fuse) panel for tripped or blown fuses. Replace or reset as needed.

If lights work, temporarily turn your temperature knobs as high as they will go and listen for the compressor to turn on. If it doesn't you may have a bad thermostat, or the fridge is in defrost mode which turns the compressor off and the heater on so that it can defrost the coils. To cycle the defrost timer, look for a hole in the thermostat plastic housing cover and with a fairly wide screwdriver blade turn the one way shaft a little bit to a 1/4 turn and see if the compressor and fan turns on now. The timer shaft is sloped on both sides and turns only one way, so if it doesn't engage with the screwdriver tip, turn it the other way and you will feel some resistance when you turn it the right way. If the compressor does turn on, your defrost timer (the part you turned) is likely bad.

If the compressor turned on when you set the thermostat to high, check the ducts at the back of the fridge for cold air blowing from them. If the air isn't blowing, your coil (evaporator coil) fan may be bad (seized up). The fan only runs when the compressor is running. Excessive frost build-up on the coils can reduce or stop cold air from being dispersed in the fridge. If the defrost timer fails to rotate to the defrost cycle, humidity from opening the doors of the fridge will eventually clog the coils with frost and the cold air will be stopped from entering the fridge causing the compressor to run continuously and the interior to be warm.

If your issue turns out to be a compressor or refrigerant issue a licensed professional will have to take it from there.

It sounds like a lot but it's easier than it sounds!

Good luck!

Aug 16, 2013 | Whirlpool Refrigerators

1 Answer

Fridge is warm, was collecting water inside. Freezer is working fine. Increased temp but not responding. It is a bottom freezer model

send the model number off of the fridge,if the freezer is working fine then no air is being blown up to the fridge section,all it does is blow cold air from the freezer to the fridge section so either the door was left open and this is very common with a bottom mount freezer or the evap fan isn't blowing or on some models there's a damper inside the fridge section,the damper door opens and closes to let cold air in,when it reaches temp. the door closes,sometimes the door gets stuck in the closed position or the open position and the fridge freezes or gets warm depending on where the door is.first thing open the freezer door,do you hear the fan blowing,if not you could have a bad evap. fan motor,next look at the ceiling and on the packages,do you see frozen water droplets,if so the door was left open and the air ducts are froze up from the warm air getting in from the door being open and mixing with the cold air freezes up the air ducts,also stick your hand onto the back inside wall of the freezer,if there's like snow or frost on the inside back wall of the freezer you could have a defrost problem,bad defrost thermostat,heater,timer or board depending on the model or last a bad damper,when you open the fridge door there are air ducts usually up top and in the middle you should feel cold air blowing in,this is your problem the air isn't making it into the fridge section.if the door was left open,unplug the fridge,remove the food from the freezer and with a hair dryer heat up the back inside wall of the freezer and blow the hot air into the air vent holes in the back wall to melt out the air ducts,keep heating it up until you don't see any more water dripping,you can see the water dripping through the vent let me know what you find,send the model number and we can go from there.look up near the ceiling in the fridge section on the right hand wall and you should see a tag with the model and serial numbers,send the full model number so i can see what you have in your machine.

Jun 12, 2011 | Maytag Refrigerators

1 Answer

What should I check if the refrigerator is not cooling/working, but the freezer works fine?

first off what kind of frige and model number,the freezer feeds the fridge so no cold air is being blown into the fridge section from the freezer,open the freezer door,if you don't hear the fan blowing you could have a bad evap fan motor,put your hand on the back wall of the freezer,if there's ice or like snow on it you have a defrost problem,bad defrost thermostat,heater,timer or board depending on the machine,this is why i need the model number,also on some machines there is a damper that opens and closes to let the cold air into fridge section or the door was left open and the air vents are froze up,most common on bottom mount freezers,look at the freezer ceiling and packages,if you see frozen water droplets on the ceiling or packages it's a sure sign the door was left open.hope this helps.

May 03, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Refrigerator not cold and ice keeps building up in lower freezer unit all over .keep defrosting and runs good and then same problem.

Your defrost timer is bad or your heating element. The defrost timer in newer models is inside the fridge side under the plastic cover in the back or if you have a light and dial themostat dial in the top centre its there. The timer will be black with a shaft in the center that a flatblade screw driver can turn. Turn it slowly one click at a time until the fan and compressor kick off. (the fan in the fzr will kick off also) You can hear audible clicks but go slow the defrost mode is just one click of the dial and it may take you a few minutes to hit the spot. When the fan and compressor stops wait about 3 minutes and listen to the freezer you should hear hissing and popping ice sounds if you dont you need to defrost the freezer and take the back off so you can see the cooling coils you may have to defrost it even more once the coils is exsposed. You will see a black heating element (or a glass one with an element inside rare) this element will be attached to the cooling coil and on one end of it will be a nikle size disc this is the defrost limit it keeps the heating element from getting to hot for to long. If the element is bad it will usually have a spot in it blown out and burnt. You can ck the element with an ohm/volt meter these can be picked up at any hardware store for 5 to 15 dollars. It will come with directions on how to use it. But either your defrost timer,element,or thermal limit is out. If you have any trouble let me know and I will walk you thru it. good luck and respect the electricity and unplug the fridge before testing parts.

Aug 16, 2010 | Amana Refrigerators

1 Answer

Dometic Refrigerator Model RM 2820 Stopped working purchased 5-4-2004 . Tom Collins

Hi Tom,

If your fridge quit working altogether, check your DC fuses in the fuse box, as well as the back of the fridge under the black plastic cover (3 amp). Though the fridge uses LP and 120vac to cool, it is controlled by 12 volts.

Apr 30, 2010 | Dometic RM2620 Refrigerator

1 Answer

Unit stopped lights in both fridge and freezer. Does not run. checked power plugged into another circuit still nothing

The exact same thing happened to me. An LG service tech was sent to my home, only to tell me that he couldnt fix the problem.. a blown fuse. He said the entier fridge had to be replaced. You would think a blown fuse owuld be an easy fix, but evidentally not. LG did replace the appliance but after it was replaced they told me theyd only guarantee the new fridge for 90 days. After that, my extended service plan would come into effect. Good thing Id purchased that plan because my 90 days was up last month & now my ice maker has quit working. I will never buy another LG product!

Oct 19, 2009 | LG LRFD22850 Bottom Freezer Refrigerator...

2 Answers

Fan runs freezer and fridge don't cool

Please check the model number again, I can't locate that number. The number should be like for example 194.258978 Look at following areas for the model number
  • Beneath Or Inside Food Compartment On Cabinet Frame
  • On Plate Lower Front Or Rear Of Cabinet
  • Beside Compressor Door On Right End
  • Near Rear Of Cabinet
  • Inside Liner At Top
  • I think your refrigerator has a defrost timer and this may be the problem, Let me know what you find, Thanks, Sea Breeze

Mar 29, 2009 | Kenmore Refrigerators

1 Answer

Ge profile brita 18 bm black purchased in jan/06

Having the same problem. apparently this is just a horrible fridge... unfortunately no solution for ya

Jan 11, 2009 | GE Profile PSW26P Stainless Steel Side by...

1 Answer

The refrigerator is not keeping tempurature. Freezer is working fine

Either the freezer fan has stopped blowing air or the defrost timer has stopped and the airways to the fridge are clogged with ice. Only the freezer gets cold in a refrigerator. The fridge part gets cold by cold air being blown through air passages from the freezer. Good Luck!!


Oct 03, 2008 | Amana Refrigerators

5 Answers

My LG LRBN20514ST Fridge is not cooling

where to look for the defrost timer on the LG top freezer modle

Aug 26, 2007 | LG LRBN20510WW Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

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