Re: older homelite super 2 has bar oil getting into...
Sounds like you have a leak in your crankcase. On most ( or at least quite a few) saws the oil tank wall is shared with the crankcase housing. When you add bar oil it's running into the crankcase and then the cylinder. It may just need a new gasket, worst case is you have a hole in the housing.
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I get asked this question a lot , im gonna have to make a video on this subject someday .
1st ck your oil viscosity/SAE it should be 30 and say bar/chain oil
next dump out entire oil tank and wash out with kerosene (you'd be surprised what I seen come out)
then remove bar and chain , locate oil outlet it's in body of saw near adjustment screw , use a small can of air to blow in this port softly , use a touch more of kero to clean this all out , refill tank with proper oil !!!! and run saw (no need to put bar/chain back on yet ) might take several minutes but oil should start to flow out hole !! stop saw and reinstall bar/chain then run again .. fixed !! if no oil comes out ever your oil pump is gonna need some fixing
for a low cost oil I use filtered used motor oil cut down with a dab of kerosene
It dies because it's flooding as you increase the amount of flow, a small carb adjustment is needed. As far as the leaking bar oil, if the saw has a pump replace the gaskets between the motor and the bar and reduce the amount that the saw puts out when running. Let me know if that cures the problem.
That's for the bar&chain oil. It dribbles onto the chain as the saw runs, lubricating the where the chain slides over the slot in the edge of the bar. Without this oil the chain & bar will overheat pretty quickly, ruining both the bar and the chain.
Bar oil goes into it's own tank, and premixed fuel (50:1 using a modern synthetic saw oil) into it's own tank. The fuel can should be thoroughly shaken just before adding more fuel to the tank to prevent oil starvation. Gift saws generally have things wrong with them, so if you can't get the engine to run, suggest that you either find a friend that is knowledgeable about saws or take it to a service shop for repairs. Hope this helps!
Use regular bar/chain oil available from home centers, hardware stores, and saw shops. Always keep the chain properly sharpened and tensioned so that you don't have to force the chain into the cut which causes motor overheating. If you need to make an 'under' cut, do so with the top of the bar--don't run the saw upside down. Good luck!
The humming is the motor trying to turn. Remove the drive end cover from the bar and chain--back off the chain adjustment CCW several turns. If the saw has a chain brake, release it. When the cover is loose, remove the bar and chain, inspect the entire mechanism for any damage--particularly the chain itself. Run the motor without the bar and chain, and check for oil oozing out of the side port in the motor case where the bar fits. To reassemble, fit the bar in place after cleaning the small oil passages in the drive end, then fit chain over the sprocket. Pull the bar outwards to tighten the chain, then fit the cover and fasteners finger tight. Adjust the lower run of chain up to the bar (the lower run of teeth cut toward you), but not so tight that you can turn the chain by hand. Tighten the fasteners and recheck chain tension. Chain saws don't seem to like cutting hedges and other small branch, but tough bushes and the like. Make sure the chain teeth are properly sharpened. Hope this helps!
If the starter is almost impossible to pull through, very likely it has been run without premixed fuel. At the very least, you will require a new cylinder, piston, and ring(s). The parts alone will buy you another saw and most labor bills for this type of repair will buy another saw. Proper fuel premixing is very important on late model saws because the fuel to oil ratios are very lean. Never use a petroleum based oil like boat motor oil--only use modern synthetic oils made for saw use. Always premix in it's own can and shake thoroughly just before adding to saw.
Hi It would be helpful to know where durban is. In most parts of America "Bar Oil" is available at many hardware stores, and certainly at any chain saw dealership. Oddly enough, many "Green" aware saw operators are now using vegetable oil as a lubricant. So Canola oil, Corn oil, or any other fairly thick, heavy vegetable oil will work fine. The oil is pumped onto the bar at the top of where it exits the motor housing, and then circulates around the bar. Much of it is lost on the first pass the chain makes through the wood. This is carried away in the chip stream coming out of the cut. On many gas saws, you can see oil being slung off the chain when you rev the motor up. The green feeling is, all this oil is left where we cut. Are we leaving a biodegradable oil behind? Or a contaminant that will take years to degrade.
See also: http://www.fs.fed.us/eng/pubs/html/98511316/98511316.html
Stay safe, keep the blade sharp - use the protective gear as directed. HF
Don't know if this is your problem but I experienced it a lot using Homelites. The gas tank sits directly over the cylinder head. As you spill mixed gas with oil over time it coats the cylinderhead with oil and it collects a lot of sawdust and as the saw gets more coated with this mixture it makes it a lot hotter and it doesn't cool down as well. Cleaning the saw will help it cool better and lower the amount of heat. Here in lies the problem. The gas tank cap has a vent in it. This vent over time becomes plugged a lot. As the excess heat from the motor heats up the gas in the tank, it can get hot enough to boil. If the vent is plugged even a little bit it will build up pressure in the tank and force it into the carburetor thus flooding it. I need more model information to find out about the oiler adjustment. If there is one it's usually where the oil comes out of saw and enters the bar.
After it has been used for a while and it won't restart, try loosing the cap to the gas tank and see if there is pressure escaping. The homelites are notorious for the vent screen in the gas tank cap getting dirty and pressuring up which forces more fuel into the carburetor and floods the motor. This is also aided by spilled mixed gas which has oil in it running down onto the cylinder heads and then the sawdust sticks to it over time and building up where it makes it difficult for the cylinder head to get rid of all the heat it makes from running. This in turn makes the gas tank hotter and makes it build up pressure in the tank. If the vent cap cant get rid of it as fast as it is created the increased pressure forces too much gasoline into the carburetor and it floods it out.