Question about GE Profile DPSB619ED Electric Dryer

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GE dryer does not run and just hums

I have a GE Profile electric dryer that is five years old and it will nor run. I know that the breaker is not tripped and that the dryer is getting power because the display lights up. The drum turns freely. Should I try to pop the top and inspect it?

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  • 5 more comments 
  • scottfl55 May 09, 2009

    Where would I find a diagram that shows how the display panel and top are assembled? I'd like to find a parts breakdown before I just start taking screws out.



    Thanks!

  • scottfl55 May 09, 2009

    I am just curious why the hum would be a loose or broken belt and not a frozen motor? How do I take the dryer apart to inspect it? I've pasted some info from another site below. Does it pertain to my situation in regards to inspecting the dryer? Thanks for your time!

    Pull your dryer out from the wall. Behind it, on the bottom, you will find a lower panel that will give you access to the unit's belt tensioner (also known as an idler pulley arm). Remove the screws holding this panel in place, and then remove the panel itself.

    Older GE dryer models have a small drum bearing inspection plate in the center of the back of the dryer. This drum bearing inspection plate provides access to the dryer's circlip (also known as an e-ring). This clip holds the rear drum shaft in place. Newer models do not have this circlip or the drum bearing inspection plate.

    If yours is an older GE model with an inspection plate, remove the plate now. It will be held in place with a single screw. Removing the inspection plate will allow you access to the dryer's rear drum bearing.

    Now remove the front panel of the dryer. There are a couple of different ways this is accomplished. Whichever method you use is dependent upon your model. Some older models have two spring catch clips under the cabinet top, one on the left side, and one on the right side of the front. Use a putty knife, or some other flat and thin object to wedge in under the cabinet top. Release both spring catches and lift the cabinet top off the dryer. In some newer models, there will be screws joining the cabinet front panel to the cabinet top. You will have to open the door in order to find these screws. Once they are found, remove them and then slide the cabinet top forward and lift it off the unit.

    Next, there are two screws located in the bottom of the front panel, one in each corner. Loosen these, but do not remove them just yet. Locate and remove the two screws at the top inside of the dryer's front panel. Again, there is one screw in each corner. Proceed to remove the other two screws you have just loosened. Disconnect the door switch wires and then lift the front panel off your dryer.

  • scottfl55 May 10, 2009

    Sorry! I took the top off and the belt is secure. Could it be the motor that is humming?



    Thanks

  • scottfl55 May 10, 2009

    I took the front of the dryer off and inspected the fan that sits in front of the motor. Other than vacuuming it to clear away all of the lint I not sure what else I should be looking for. The fan turns freely. I turned the drum and the plastic propeller blades turn in conjuction with the it. It appears that the fan might function to **** air out of the drum. Is that correct? There seem to be propellers that are attached to the end of the motor shaft that spin as the drum rotates. I'm not sure how these parts function together. You might enlighten me. What should I after I vacuum all of the lint out that I have access to?



    Thanks!

  • scottfl55 May 10, 2009

    I can see that the belt loops around the shaft of the motor and a white plastic tensioner of some sort and then to the drum. The belt seems to be in the groove of the white tensioner and the motor shaft correctly. I stuck my hand in there and it all truns freely. Enjoy your dinner!

  • scottfl55 May 10, 2009

    I think that I will make a service call and let a professional do the repair. Should I leave the top and front of the dryer off to save the tech some time? Thanks for your help.



    Scott

  • scottfl55 May 10, 2009

    I vacuumed quite a bit of lint from around the area where the front door assembly meets the plastic propeller fan blades that are attached to the end of the motor shaft. I put the front of the dryer back on and spun the drum by hand a couple of times. I turned it on and it seems like it hummed mometarily and then I spun the drum and it started to spin on it's own. I turned it on and off 4-5 times and it started correctly each time. I'll have to wait and see if it spins under load, since I dried four loads at my son's house today. Does it seem reasonable that the build up of lint, which was about 3/8 of an inch thick could have prevented the propeller blades from spinning freely? In turn the motor hummed because it could not spin? If it continues to run as expected, I will assume that the lint build up was the issue. I'll keep my fingers crossed. The dryer vent discharge has quite a run to the outside of the house. I'd like to clean it out. Any ideas about how to do this? How about disconnecting the dryer vent from the dryer and blowing compressed air through it to the outside vent? Thanks for your time. You've been a great help!

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  • 1,489 Answers

Yes, open it. You'll probably find a broken or loose belt.

More help?, let me know.

Posted on May 09, 2009

  • 6 more comments 
  • Samuel Charles Spriggs May 09, 2009

    Are you sure the top just doesn't separate from the bottom cabinet by prying up the top? I haven't looked at this particular model. Most of them do separate when you pry up with a large flat tip screwdriver on each front corner.

  • Samuel Charles Spriggs May 09, 2009

    The hum is the motor turning without a belt on it. It's a very quiet motor.



    The posting you pasted sounds like they are working on the drum, not the belt.

  • Samuel Charles Spriggs May 10, 2009

    I looked at this dryer on the internet. It 's described as "an old-fashioned design" and the control panel is on the rear of the top. This tells me we're going down the right path -- it's belt drive and not direct drive and the first step in accessing the belt is to pop the top.

  • Samuel Charles Spriggs May 10, 2009

    Did you remove the front panel (usually has screws) so you can see the rollers and the motor under the tub?

  • Samuel Charles Spriggs May 10, 2009

    Can you see where the belt goes through a pulley on one end of the motor shaft? I'll get to your questions later -- wife is calling me for dinner.

  • Samuel Charles Spriggs May 10, 2009

    After pondering, on a full stomach, it is sounding like the start winding in the motor is bad. It could be the centrifugal switch in the motor (which is necessary to start it) or it could be the start switch (which energizes the start winding) -- but, if the motor is humming, it's probably neither of those. There is probably a run capacitor, don't know without looking -- that could be bad as well.



    It's getting complicated now -- you may not chose to go any further.

    Were I there, I would remove the belt from the motor pulley, close the door so the door interlock switch will be closed, plug the dyer into the wall, and push the start button.



    If the motor spins, clicks, and continues to spin, it's probably good.



    I would suspect belt tension, even though it seems tight, the tensioner may not be working properly.



    This is a tricky maneuver with the dryer disassembled, and there is a lot of exposure to high voltage. If the belt is not removed from the motor, all kinda hell can break loose when you do this. Make sure there is nothing else in the way of the motor which it could catch when it spins. Also make sure there are no wires which have been pulled loose or are lying in dangerous places.

  • Samuel Charles Spriggs May 10, 2009

    Scott,



    Yes, I would leave it apart.



    Charlie

  • Samuel Charles Spriggs May 10, 2009



    Scott,



    Compressed air doesn't work cvery well in 4" hoses. Recommended method is vacuum cleaner.



    By the way, the start-by-hand symptom is a motor start-winding, motor centrifugal-switch, or a start-switch problem.



    If it's running now, you probably dislodged the centrifugal switch in the motor. The lint could have been keeping that from operating (it slides up and down the shaft as the motor RPM change). If you vaccum the shaft end of the motor (inside the motor) that will probably do the trick for good -- I'd put a little machine oil on the switch and oil all the bushings, rollers, motor shaft while you're there.



    Congratulations, I think you fixed it!!!



    Charlie

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