Question about GE JTP28 Electric Double Oven

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Oven shuts off!!!

The top oven shuts off sporatically when it is baking. It can be on for 10, 15 or even a half hour and then just shuts of as if someone pushed the CLEAR/OFF button. No error code. Any ideas?

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6 Suggested Answers

SOURCE: F2 error code

Similar problem. When baking over 400 degrees we get the F2 code that can only be reset by cycling the power at the breaker. Replaced the electonics to no avail. I'm thinking its the cooling fan located between the oven and microwave (upper unit) it never comes on which may cause a separate temp switch to generate the F2... but I'm not a pro. :)

Posted on Dec 26, 2007

  • 2651 Answers

SOURCE: GE Profile -Installed wall oven - won't heat

brand new??? under a year old??? if so you have a warr call for service, but it sounds like an ignitor isssue, brand new , perhapsgot damaged in shipping 1-800-ge-cares

Posted on Mar 30, 2008

  • 3361 Answers

SOURCE: GE: E Profile Single Electric Oven Model: JSP40W0WJWW

First press and hold the cancel/off button for 10 seconds.
If that does not work you have a bad thermal switch due to excessive heat buildup. Possibly a bad fan motor.
The 2 thermal switches are located on top of the oven behind the control panel.

Posted on Mar 18, 2009

  • 19 Answers

SOURCE: F2 and F3 error codes in GE electric wall oven

Call GE answer center 1-800-626-2000 ask for tech help, Have you Model # off you data plate ready.

Posted on May 09, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Wolf Double Oven

I had the same problem with a Wolf L-Series double wall oven (Model DO30) and called for service (under extended warranty contract). The tech told me that the F1 error is a latch problem (you know the one that grabs and locks the door during self-clean cycles). He cleared the error using a series of "secret" button presses on the control panel and the problem cleared. Now, when it happens (which isn't very frequently), I do the same thing he did ... press "0" and "Temperature" for the oven causing the problem and hold them for about 5 seconds. The oven will ding and the display will show some diagnostics, including the error event. Press "Cook Time" and "Stop Time" while in this diagnostic mode to clear the error register, then press "Off". I've also tried to keep the area across the top of the oven opening clean (with a little degreaser), especially around the latch, and I've sprayed a bit of WD-40 into the latch periodically for lubrication and cleaning.

Posted on May 22, 2009

  • 3230 Answers

SOURCE: GE JTP 1580W288 Set oven to Bake, switches to broil at bake temp

The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site. 
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws. 

Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement. 

The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven. 

If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock. 

You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board. 

On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced. 

If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors. 

Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
good luck,

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

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