Question about GE PSI23MGN Side by Side Refrigerator

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Have power to condensor fan, but no power to common on compressor, I get meter reading of around 15 volts!!  I have 120 volts going into coupling at bottom of refrigerator but only get 15 back to compressor!!   Evaporator fans work fine!!

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All compressors have a 1) Bi-metal t-stat and Most have 

2) Start-Capacitor assist with 3) Plug-in Start Relay.

 All 3 parts are available at Most Appliance Repair stores and are not that expensive. It is usually 1 of the 3 that has failed.

If your Condenser Fan is Running it is one of the three components or a burnt off wire ... Be Safe.


Good Luck.

Posted on Oct 11, 2007


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017


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basically you have 1 nuetral (wht) and a common(usually black, but in your case, RED). What you should do, is if you have a meter.? Set it for AC volts & check your power there and confirm that your white is neutral (use black or neg side, lead wire from meter and hold it on white) & (use the red or pos.side, lead wire from your meter and hold it to the red wire) being careful. always assume the electrical wires you are dealing with are hot and they can seriously hurt you. If you are in doubt, please, hire an electrician for this. if you are comfortable, then continue and have someone turn the switch on for you to confirm your power . Your meter should read 119-120 volts. somewhere in that range. if it reads -110 to -120 (neg. reading. it means your wires are crossed. and wht is pos or common and red is neutral rare but could happen.) so moving forward. say white is neutral & red is common everything check. then connect wht to wht, grn is ground so connect all grds together and connect those to a screw at the box or canopy bracket if its a clg fan. then connect the remaining blue wires to the red wire. this will power both the fan and the lights form the one switch. the only way to separate them is with the pull chain(s) coming down from 1 the fan motor & 2 the lights. Now, you can separate them and have independent control over them if you were to go with a wireless remote. they make one specifically designed for your situation. (just a thought) I hope this answers your question with a whole lot more questions. Let me know, ill be happy to answer them. good luck & BE CAREFUL!!

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My refrigerator freezer does not cool below 70 degrees. I just relace the start relay and now the compressor runs but the condensor fan won't work unless i give it a little spin.

Lubricate the condensor fan with a parifin based oil like Union 76 turbine oil or "Zoom Spout" oiler. These fans are notorious for the bearings drying up on them.

Being careful.... touch the compressor copper lines. One should be very warm almost Hot to the touch.
Also with the unit unplugged..... note that there is a coolant drier with a small capillary tube coming out of one end. Tap the side of this by holding a hammer handle (wood) against it and hit it on the side with a screw driver handle.

Check to make sure the evaporator fan in the freezer compartment is also running when the compressor is on. Anytime the compressor is running BOTH fans must be running. If you can not get the condensor fan up to full speed you will note that the chassis around the door seal area will be quite warm almost hot to the touch and the unit will not be cooling properly. Just for troubleshooting.... direct a fan at the condensor coils and see if the freezer compartment gets cold and that the chassis around the door seals is just warm.

Note about compressors in general.... if you unplug a unit.. it must settle / stabilize for 15 - 20 minutes so that the compressor can restart. Any power off periods less than 15 mins will result in the compressor cycling via the thermal overload every 4 minutes or so... and it does not run for more than 40 seconds when the overload kicks off the PTC relay power.

If you never feel the copper line off of the side of the compressor get hot then the unit has lost coolant.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,

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Amana sxd22s2w p1190416ww refrigerator. The Evaporator fan isnt running (compressor and condensor fan running fine) How can I tell if the problem is the fan motor itself, or something else, like temp...

Remove the cover to the fan, then remove the plug from the back of the fan. Connect a voltmeter to the 2 leads. Close the door switch and turn the fresh food thermostat to the coldest setting. This will call for cold and the fan should have 120 volts. If there is power to the motor replace the fan. No power check the thermostat. For help replacing the fan try this link

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Check to see if the fan motor has a separate fuse, if not then check to see if it has power (120 volts ac) with a DMM or volt meter. If it does then the fan motor needs replaced, if it dosen't then the fuse needs replaced or if it doesn't have a fuse, check to see if the switch is working correctly.

If you don't have a DMM or volt meter, or you do and don't feel comfortable testing it, then you'll need to have n a/c repair technician come out or take it into them if its portable.

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Check the relay and the compressor with a volt meter. Make sure that you are getting proper voltage. 110 - 120 volts at both the relay and the compressor. If nothing happens or everytime you try to test and the circuit keeps popping first check for bad wiring make sure nothing has come loose. If all the wiring checks out including the ground then the only thing that will pop a circuitbreaker is a bad compressor meaning it is drawing to many amp and you will either need to have a company replace the compressor for around 600 dollars or get a new unit

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Got a volt meter? If so follow the voltage to wear you find none, it goes to the compressor and condensor fan.

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If you have voltage all the way to the compressor and condensor and nothing is happening, it could be either the fan or compressor, no voltage means a switch as stopped it, or a wire fell off, or broke off a spade.

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above all if it bothers you to measure voltage DO NOT

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