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Bar oiler problem, replacing plunger did not fix the problem
Husqvarna 142 e series, bar oiler problem. Bought and installed new plunger, cleaned bar, vent tube, etc. and didn't fix the problem. Any suggestions on what to try next?
Husky 142 e series bar oiler problem. Checked oile delivery pump ect no luck!Husky 142 e series bar oiler problem. Checked oile delivery pump ect no luck!
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Re: bar oiler problem, replacing plunger did not fix the...
The worm gear is on the plunger.the gear that is on the crank shaft,if i remember is a nylon gear.some times they look prefectly fine but they slip on the crank shaft and do not trun the worm gear fast enough to oil. here is a parts breakdown for that saw......http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/usa/2004/I04000/I0401904.pdf look on page four 4.......i hope this helps,let me know........................
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The owner's manual should disclose the adjustment detail. Set it so that the bar tip throws off a thin line of oil onto a piece of cardboard after a few moments of running at speed. Good luck!
Did you get it Lowes? Most new homeowner class chainsaws have no oiler adjustment (bad idea! lots of problems). If it does there is a mention in the OM under or near bar maintenance.
Intermediate class saws often have a 3 position oiler. The professional grades have fully adjustable oilers. HusqvarnaUSA.com http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/ Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers) Serial number decode – useful when downloading IPLs and Manuals 06 1500198 06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000; please contact Husqvarna for single digit clarificationhttp://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/customer-support/) 15 = week produced – March 00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week
Oil System Plugged:
Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar), if equipped with a sprocket nose ensure it rotates easily at least one complete revolution. Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out. Pay attention to the screen or filter on the free end (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up (oozes down side of saw). If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2.
Work your way through the linkage (use IPL to identify components and locations) cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is a left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly.
If it does not oil on completion of 1 it is most likely a bad oiler or worm gear (see IPL).
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. HTH & Good Luck. Lou Thank You for using FixYa.
You are the only one that can determine what part or parts are defective (we cannot see the parts). If you are not comfortable making that determination a I recommend a local Stihl or Husky seller/mechanic. Oil System Plugged.
Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar) Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out. Pay attention to the screen or filter on the free end (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up. If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2.
Work your way through the linkage cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is a left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly.
If it does not oil on completion of 1 it is most likely a bad oiler or worm gear. Please see the IPL to aid in oiler component identification. HTH Lou
The oiler and worm gear are behind the outboard clutch(often under sheet metal cover). This will help with clutch removal: R² Drive Link Outboard Clutch by Drivelink.blogspot.com http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdqkIuVNUQc
Check the IPL for your saw to see if any special tools are needed.
There are metal piston stops available, when square (almost never) with the piston top these work well, if not square they have been known to punch through the piston. I suggest a length of starter cord or nylon rope be used instead of the piston stop (retain 6" ± so you can remove it). Make sure the piston is near the top of the cylinder before feeding the cord or it can fall through the exhaust port and damage the piston as it rises.
Everyone I have ever removed had a left handed thread (tighten it to loosen it).
HusqvarnaUSA.com http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/ Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers) Serial number decode – useful when downloading IPLs and Manuals 06 1500198 06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000) 15 = week produced - March 00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week HTH Lou
Is this a new saw? If yes please contact Husqvarna about a warranty (2 years) repair. I think you already performed part 1 below.
I've 7 chainsaws. 6 of them oil my bench if I forget to drain the oil tank.
You don't give us a model number not all saws have oiler adjustments. An IPL of your saw with oiler detail can be found here: HusqvarnaUSA.com http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/ Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers) Serial number decode – for use with IPL 06 1500198 06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000) 15 = week produced - March 00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week
Oil System Plugged.
Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar) Clean the saw’s oiler hole and channel. Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up. If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2.
Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Work your way through the linkage cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is probably left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly. GL
Remove the chain and bar assembly. Start engine--should pump oil from oiler port where the bar fits on the engine side. If oil comes out, then possibly the bar-oiling passage in the bar itself is plugged with dirt or sawdust--blow clean with compressed air. If no oil comes out from the port, check the pickup tube inside the oil tank. Drain the oil into something and fish the pickup tube end out with a hooked wire. Replace if collapsed, cracked, or loose.
the rancher uses a plastic oiler gear to a metal gear.the plastic gear always looses in the battle.pull the clutch off and clutch drum.under the drum you will find the plastic gear.replace it and all should be well again
Husky 142 e series bar oiler problem. Checked oile delivery pump ect no luck!
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