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Re: not geting hot enough
The most common thing to cause this is a blocked vent. Start the dryer and go out to where the vent comes out of the house and see how hard it blows. If you feel little air out the vent, you will need to unhook the dryer from the vent and see how hard it blows there. If it is blowing good there you need to have the vent pipe cleaned. If dryer isn't blowing hard out the back, please reply back with the model number so I can give more detailed directions on checking the blower wheel and ducts.
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The control thermostat on the blower housing is the one you need to change if it is getting too hot. It is taking too long to shut off the element. The only other thing it could be is a blocked vent making it overheat. The fuse is set for 350f the limit on the element is a 250 f one. I suspect the 250 f limit on the element is doing the drying not the control stat. Hence you getting overheat but not hot enough to blow the fuse.
i will give your a list of all parts that could make the ignitor on come on excluding the ignitor since it seems good
flame sensor ,the black part on burner tube,Unplug before checking since if good WILL shock you when removing wires to check it, remove wires and check for continunty and replace if no cont.
high limit t-stat (another shock hazard when live) it also on burner tube ,if good will have continunity
cycling t-stat(s) in blower housing check and replace if no continunity
thermal fuse, the white eyeball shaped part also in blower housing cont. if good
timer, refer to wiring diagram and set to a regular cycle and check for cont.. per the two terminal indicated as being closed as shown when a solid black line on chart in diagram
motor (i know it sound odd since it runs) has a centrifical switch that completes neutral circuit to igntor when running,this is a built in safety feature to ensure dryer will only heat when running since extreme fire hazard if can heat when off
heat selector switch ,will be a chart on wiring diagram to indicate which circuit that is common to all heat settings (high, med,low) and circuits exclusive to each heat setting
to check all above the wires to that part/timer circuit must be removed so there is no ghost circuit,use a multimeter set to continunity/ohms setting, all above should have zero ohms if good and OL (open line) reading depending on you meter it may show no reading which is OL
UNPLUG BEFORE CHECKING ALL ABOVE SINCE ANY AND ALL ABOVE WILL SHOCK YOU IF LIVE
Lint burns quickly and rarely holds a flame long enough to cause a fire
hazard. Metal burning would probably indicate friction on spinning
metal, like the motor shaft, or the drum rollers. Plastic/rubber are
usually parts that are intended to wear, and can usually be replaced.
Along with the belt, you should also check the idler pulley that takes up the slack in the belt, as well as any drum rollers or nylon glides on the top of the dryer door where the drum rides. Metal, plastic, and lint have distinct smells, and you should be able to determine which one(s) you have by smell.
Lint is a common burner in dryers, and it seems you've looked in some of the obvious places it can accumulate. When you have the cover off, pay special attention to the burner area, and any ducts from the lint screen area. Also, any gaps in insulation where air flows could cause hot spots in the unit. If you can see the flame while its running, make sure its size is not excessive. Flames should not be too low or too high, and should not escape the burner housing.
If you notice soot buildup, your gas/air mixture is off. If you've switched from natural to bottled gas or vice-versa, you may need to swap the burner orifices to match the different pressures of the gas fuel.
You might want to replace the thermacouplar. Sometimes when they are going out , all will appear to be alright but as you stated it takes a long time for the flame to come back on. This sounds to me like the thermacouplar is going out.
I find that quite often the ignitor is out of alignment or the glass window is covered with lint. a gas dryer blows air through a
burner assembly to heat the air. The burner assembly consists
essentially of a gas valve, ignitor and a flame sensor. If any
part of the burner assembly malfunctions, the result will be low
or no heat and slow drying of the clothes.
There are two common styles of ignitors,
glow ignitors and spark ignitors. The ignitor ignites the gas
either by heating up and glowing, or by sparking. If the ignitor
fails, the dryer will not heat.
The easiest way to check the ignitor
is to observe it. Remove the small access panel in front, select
a high temperature setting and start the dryer. Watch the burner
assembly, shortly after starting the dryer the ignitor should
begin to glow or spark. If you see it glow or spark, then the
ignitor is working.
We should address the heat problem first. If your dryer complaint is "heat seems low" or taking "too long to heat", this is commonly confused for other problems. When in fact, you may really have a "ventillation problem". Do you feel (with hand) alot of hot air pressure coming out the back of the dryer or house vent-line (for dryer)?
I would disconnect and clean the dryer exhaust vent/duct (at wall and machine). Then, while leaving the vent-line disconnected temporaily, test and run your dryer. You may see an signficant improvement.
Does it heat up better?
Do you feel alot of hot air and pressure coming out the back of the dryer?
When connected; do you feel alot of hot air pressure coming out of your house dryer vent?
The heat is regulated with a Klixon mounted next to the blower housing
near the vent pipe so it can judge the temperature of the air coming
out of the drum.Right next to it is a melting type fuse. If the dryer
runs and gets too hot the fuse will melt.But the dryer will still
run. So if the fuse is good(continuity) and the dryer control(cycle)
thermostat is also good then you should have power going to the gas
valve assembly when the machine is running unless the timer is in the
no heat or wrinkle free/cool down mode. When the gas valve assembly is
energized the flame sensor mounted outside the burner chamber detects the heat from the ignitor.
When the heat is very intense then the sensor shuts down the ignitor and that frees up the power so that the coils can be fully energised
and open the gas gates. The gas comes out and hits the red hot ignitor
and you have ignition. It stays on for maybe 2 or 3 minutes or until
the control thermostat is satisfied and shuts down power to the gas
valve assembly. more here
Make sure dryer is unplugged. Take the back off and you will see two heater exchanges and probably the element. One of those heat exchangers is for hot setting. When you find out which one go to nearest electrical shop with it and order. I reckon thats what your problem is. I've changed mine and everything was alright.
If your dryer seems to run forever, it could be because of a clogged vent or internal ductwork. Your dryer may have an automatic cycle that turns off the dryer when the clothes are dry. It does this with a special thermostat or moisture-sensing system.
Normally, this is what happens during an automatic cycle:
The thermostat tells the dryer to heat until the interior of the dryer reaches a pre-set temperature--say 135 degrees.
When the dryer reaches the pre-set temperature, the thermostat tells the timer to begin advancing. (If there's a moisture sensor, the timer advances only if the moisture content of the clothing is low enough.)
The timer advances until the interior cools, then the thermostat tells the timer to stop advancing, and tells the dryer to start heating again.
This cycle continues until the clothes are dry. But…if the vent is clogged, the dryer may never reach the proper operating temperature, so it doesn't send the signal to the timer and the dryer continues to run indefinitely, even if the clothes are completely dry. To fix the problem, clean the vent and/or internal ductwork.