Question about Bosch Brute Breaker Hammer 11304

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Motor runs slow

New brushes .Armature looks good . Cleaned every thing greased everything. put back together .Cleaned switch. but runs about half speed. thanx

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 313 Answers

SOURCE: miter saw motor slowing down

motor comm might be a problem.see if tha armature comm are fine.if their is gap with comm bar & discolorization with mains needs aramture etc.

Posted on Jun 01, 2008

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  • 384 Answers

SOURCE: I burnt up my motor but all the bearings look

Bearing are not the problem. The motor is toast. Replace the motor.

Posted on Jul 23, 2009

apart4u
  • 213 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer turns on but won't heat up or tumble

Common faults -
1 The heating elements can fail (meaning open circuit)
2 There are cut-outs (T.O.C's) that might need resetting
3 The thermostats (stats) can trip out or burn out (meaning opencircuit)
4 Moderntumble dryers also have sensors and pcb's (Printed circuitboards) thesehave programs that can fail and circuitry although most should produce an errorcode showing you were the fault is.
5 Faultyconnections and burned wires may also be the fault.



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Posted on Jan 13, 2010

barkencoa
  • 3463 Answers

SOURCE: Bosch Classixx WAE24162GB/03 motor not working, have cxd brushes

There is a thermal cutout in the motor, but unfortunately it is not resettable.
The only way to be sure if it is faulty, is to check it for continuity with a meter, if it is open circuit, it can be bypassed, but this then leaves the motor unprotected, but it will prove if the fault is in the motor, or elsewhere.
It could be a blown track on the control board caused by the brushes shorting, in addition, to an open circuit thermal cut-out.

Posted on Apr 14, 2010

Testimonial: "I had already decided to split the motor and check it out thoroughly and yes it was the thermal cut out open circuit. Fixed and all working again. Ta."

BMT60
  • 126 Answers

SOURCE: Bosch Axxis WFL 2060 Washer, not spinning.

IF THERE IS BLACK DUST UNDER THE MOTOR IT IS USUALL DEAD. YOU CAN REMOVE MOTOR FROM THE BACK I HAVE DON IT. YOU NEED A METER TO CHECK THE MOTOR. I CAN HELP.

Posted on Apr 25, 2010

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Overheating is usually caused by bad bearings on the front and/or back of the armature. The bearings should spin very freely and the armature should not touch the magnet at all. If one or both bearings overheated it is possible they cooked the lightweight grease out of them and froze up. Another thing to look at is the place where the bearings rest in the housing. If they are melted or deformed causing the armature to rub against the magnet they'll cause a build up of heat and loss of power. If the bearings are bad you have to replace the armature, if the bearing mounts are deformed you have to replace the housing set and armature depending on how much damage was done by the overheating.

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Hi there,
This is simple to fix.It sounds like you need to replace the brushes.There are two types of brushes ones that are easy to change and one that have small holes in the front part of the brush housing that require a small piece of wire that runs through the holes and keeps the brushes in place for reassembly.The wires length will depend on the vent that is used to pull the wire out when the armature is back in place and the front piece is bolted back together.While the armature is out blow everything down with compressed air and use a hacksaw blade to clean the grooves between the metal plates on the armature and add a thin coating of grease to both ends of the armature If they need it you might want to clean out the holes that the armature ends seat in.Thank you for choosing FixYa.com and Good Luck!

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1 Answer

BD Leaf Hog BV2500 - Electric. My leaf hog output decreased significantly, then started sparking in the motor recently. Is this a problem that has a simple fix or do I need to contact a professional?


Hi there,
This is simple to fix.It sounds like you need to replace the brushes.There are two types of brushes ones that are easy to change and one that have small holes in the front part of the brush housing that require a small piece of wire that runs through the holes and keeps the brushes in place for reassembly.The wires length will depend on the vent that is used to pull the wire out when the armature is back in place and the front piece is bolted back together.While the armature is out blow everything down with compressed air and use a hacksaw blade to clean the grooves between the metal plates on the armature and add a thin coating of grease to both ends of the armature If they need it you might want to clean out the holes that the armature ends seat in.Thank you for choosing FixYa.com and Good Luck!

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1 Answer

I have powermatic pm2000 3hp 10" saw, when I try to turn on push on button , it blows the breaker. I have correct power. I have used this saw for 5 years no problems. I took magnetic switch apart,...


There is a direct short some where.Unplug and turn the blade and listen to the bearings. One of the brushes might be worn down and be jammed against the armature. Five years of use and those brushes might be ready for replacement. If things turn out to be easy fix then changing brushes is not that hard.When you take them out you will see some small holes in the holders.When you put the new brush in the spring will try to push the brush back out,use a small piece of wire in the holes to hold it in.Next install the brushes back where they go.Check the armature out use a hacksaw blade to clean those grooves between the metal strips.Put the armature back in place and button it back together and pull out the keeper wires and your done.

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1 Answer

I have an old 315-11441 Craftsman Drill. I took it apart to fix the switch and in the process something must have shifted in or around the gearing. After putting back together when I power the drill I hear...


With these types of electric motors there is an armature, (the main brain of the motor) it has all the copper wiring wrapped around it and slides between two carbon brushes into the armature housing. If you took out the armature, there is sometimes a very thin peice of metal at the top of the armature which slides into the plastic housing above the armarture and creates a spring loaded "seat" for the armature, if this little shim looking thing fell out, you will need to find the old one. Without this tiny peice of metal the armature in the motor will have play in it causing the brushes to wear to one side or the other prematurely, the brushes have to wear evenly. Sometimes the brushes are spring loaded as well for a self-feed type deal. If these springs are missing the same thing will happen. Also one or both brushes could be in backwards. Check and make sure the brushes (black carbon and rectangular shaped) are positioned to support the spin of the armature. Lord, I hope this helps. I worked with small electronic motors over 15 years ago. I worked at the place for a few months, and didn't think I still remembered everything,

Aug 12, 2010 | Craftsman 3/8" Corded Drill

1 Answer

Router doesn't turn on


Try removing and cleaning your brushes before you order anything. That is the first thing that fails on these. Then try pushing the brushes in and out of the brush guide to be sure it floats in and out properly. Next check your armature for dark areas and buff with 1200 grit emery cloth or wet/dry sandpaper.

Mar 24, 2010 | Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

My mixer made a grinding noise, so i oiled it


I am assuming that when you oiled it you merely squirted oil in various places without actually taking the mixer apart. You probably did a good thing if....if....it corrects the grinding noise...but...oil is not only an excellent lubricant it is also a very good insulator and if you got oil into the switch area where it turns on then you may have got oil inside and it can be insulating the place where electrical contact is made. For a possible quickie solution you might try to use something to eliminate the oil that may have got into the switch. Best thing is probably to go to Radio Shack and buy their contact cleaner spray can and use it on the switch. That stuff is real expensive though. A cheaper solution might be to use isopropol alcohol if you have some handy or even spray carburetor cleaner as both of them will completely dry quickly. Be sure to unplug the unit before doing this and allow it to completely dry before plugging back in. You can do all of this without taking anything apart. If it then runs ok then I suspect the grinding noise is still there as the gears inside probably need a little grease. If you want to go that trouble you can remove screws and open the case up...carefully...and put a dab of auto wheel bearing grease on your finger and rub it into the area where the gear teeth are. Do not use a big gob of it ... just a little amount is all needed. If you do not have any grease handy you can use vasline if you have some in the house. If the mixer did not turn on after the above dousing of alcohol etc. from the outside then you may need to do the cleaning directly on it from inside...so if you do take the mixer apart spray the cleaner directly inside the switch. When you take the mixer apart do not remove the shaft/motor/armature or other parts...remove only the cover and enough to do the repair. The possible problem is that if you take it apart too much it will be difficult to get back together particularly if you remove the armature and contact area of the commutator where the carbon brushes are. While inside there though look at the copper commutator area where the tiny carbon brushes make electrical contact. They may be pitted or not allowing the brushes to make good connection. To correct this you can spray contact cleaner directly onto the contact area to clean it. Let it dry and reassemble and the mixer should run ok. If the mixer is very old and been used a lot then the contact area of the commutator may be worn so badly that it does not make good contact with the brushes or the brushes may be worn down so much that they no longer make good contact. In that case you would need to actually remove the armature assembly...what I told you not to do above if you are not too good at reassembling things. Once the armature is removed it is easy to take some fine grit sandpaper and clean the copper commutator making it clean and bright copper color like new again. Also if the carbon brushes are almost totally worn down you probably can find some new ones that will fit ok by taking the old ones to your local hardware store as many of them stock carbon brushes nowadays. If you do all this and are able to reassemble the mixer then it should be just about as good as new again. Hopefully you do not need to go to all the trouble of the major disassembly though. Good luck.

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Replaced Motorguide Trolling motor switch ... same problem


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4 Answers

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You have either one of 2 problems. Either you have a brush that is hung up and burnt or the armature is bad. If you are comfortable in removing the brushes first unplug the tool and remove the brush caps. Pull brushes out and look at the spring making sure not collapsed and then the end of brush that rides on armature for a burning look. Then I would look into brush tube and try and turn by hand the roller to look at the segments of armature best you can. If this needs anything other than brushes I would take it to a repair shop. Good luck
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