Question about Hilti Cordless Hammer Drill Sfh 151 A 2.0Ah

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Chuck fell apart - Hilti Cordless Hammer Drill Sfh 151 A 2.0Ah

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 2176 Answers

SOURCE: have a te6c and the chuck fell off- how to put it

pull back on the collar of the chuck and slide it on and then release the collar and turn till it locks onto the spindle.

Posted on Oct 01, 2009

  • 61 Answers

SOURCE: hilti te 15-c i have a oil leak behind the chuck.

It depends on where the leak is. if you email me I can send you an exploded diagram of tis machine. This will give you an idea of how to take it apart.

Posted on Apr 15, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I have a HILTI TE905 breaker and something is

I have just dismantled my own TE 905 to see why it was dropping the chisels and have found the following:-

1. The chisel is worn and has almost become too small for the chuck. (mesure the thickness of the chisel at both ends of the hexagonal shaft and see the difference)

2. The chuck is worn and will probably need to be replaced.
I phoned Hilti today and was quoted £100 for ONE PART OF THE CHUCK!!!

a. The chuck as a whole can easily be removed by undoing the four torx screws that hold the chuck on to the main body.

b. The chuck can be dismantled by removing the retaining ring that holds the metal outer case in place at the front of the chuck. This is very fiddly and requires some engineering skill, the use of pointed instruments could easily result in injury.

The third fix is the one I am going to use to 'patch up' my old breaker. This involves welding some small amounts of dissimilar weld onto the points of the hexagonal section at the rear of the chisel then grinding them to near enough the original size of the un-damaged section of the chisel.
This will very crudely stop the chisel from passing the ball bearings inside the chuck. PLEASE NOTE THAT ANY HEAT APPLIED TO THE CHISEL WILL CAUSE STRESS AND POSSIBLE FAILURE OF THE CHISEL. ANY MODIFICATIONS OF THIS NATURE COULD RESULT IN INJURY TO PERSONS WORKING AROUND YOU AND ARE NOT RECOMMENDED IF YOU ARE WORKING AT HEIGHT OR WITH PEOPLE BELOW YOU. This is a fix that should only be attempted by competent engineers for use on a DIY or small job basis. Hope this helps.

Posted on Nov 08, 2010

  • 123 Answers

SOURCE: chuck fell off!

You did not state which model you had but normally on Hilti drills with a removable chuck you just put the nose of the chuck in the palm of your hand. Take your fingers and pull back the sleeve. Slide it back on the guide tube and then turn it until it catches. If that does not work then something is wrong with your chuck.

Posted on Nov 15, 2010

  • 123 Answers

SOURCE: Hilti UH650, replacing the chuck

There are a couple of differant versions of the 650. Open up your chuck as wide as you can. Like you were putting a big bit in it. Look inside to see if you see a screw head. It might be slotted or torx. It will be left handed threads which means you will turn clockwise to remove. Once that screw is out you lock the front of the chuck in a vise and right behind the chuck will be a place to put a thin wrench. Turn the wrench in a counter clockwise motion away from the chuck.

Posted on Nov 18, 2011

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I believe you are in line for a different chuck.
I had this happen, and began a 3 year quest for a chuck.
Know that most chucks simply screw on the the shaft that sticks out of the drill.
They are tightly screwed on, but are removable, usually.
I recommend you try tool sales & repair places, and sooner or later, you should find a different chuck.
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God bless your efforts.

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The chuck on 99% of the drill presses is just a press fit. The end of the spindle where the chuck goes on is slightly tapered to hold it on. Make sure the end of the spindle and inside surface of the chuck are very clean. With the motor off, raise the table high enough so you can still get the chuck on the spindle then turn the handle to lower the chuck against the table and press it firmly against the table to wedge the spindle in the chuck. There shouldn't be any need for anything more than this.

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MasterCraft 8 inch drill press (Model 55-5915-4). Problem: the whole chuck unit is attached to a post that spins and in turn spins the chuck. While trying to drill into a piece of stone the whole chuck...

Most drill press chucks are attached via a tapered post on the back end of the chuck. This is a short post about 3/4 inch in diameter and 3/4 inch tall. This short tapered post (the taper is very slight) fits into a tapered hole. That hole is often in the end of a second a tapered shaft (usually call a taper, R8 is a common designation). That shaft is about 6 or 8 inches long and fits into another hole, much deeper of course. It is this longer taper that is meant to be disassembled routinely for inserting different tools. The short one is not meant to be routinely separated. I'm not sure which of these is giving you trouble, but in either case the key thing is that the mating surfaces be clean. The means of attachment is simply by pressing them together. If it is the short post that has come apart, clean both surfaces carefully with a clean rag - you don't want any dust or dirt at all. Open the jaws of the drill chuck all of the way so that the three jaws are retracted inside the chuck. Place the chuck on the table with table raised up enough that you can pull the drill press handle down slowly but forcefully to fully seat this taper. On the other hand, if it is the long taper that has come apart, this taper is not so slight and it meant to be jammed together by hand. Make sure the mating surfaces are clean, align the tang (that's the top end of the taper that looks like a giant screwdriver blade) is aligned with where it will fit all of the way in, then just give it a quick jam into place by lifting it into place quite briskly. By the way, while clean these tapered surfaces look carefully for any nicks or bumps- you will have to remove these with a small file. It's ok to have a small flat spot on the tapered post or shaft, just keep it very small. Good luck, I hope you found this helpful. Al K

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1 Answer

Chuck fell off!

You did not state which model you had but normally on Hilti drills with a removable chuck you just put the nose of the chuck in the palm of your hand. Take your fingers and pull back the sleeve. Slide it back on the guide tube and then turn it until it catches. If that does not work then something is wrong with your chuck.

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Tap it back in ... if yours is like mine. Give it a sharp rap with a mallet

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There is suppose to be a flat head Left hand thread chuck screw in there. It may have fallen out. You will not be able to put the jaws back into the chuck. You will have to replace the chuck with a new one. If you make sure that the chuck screw is not there you can remove the chuck with a couple of steps. Make sure the drill is in it's lowest gear. Use a strap wrench or some large vise grips on the chuck. If there is still one jaw in the chuck make sure it is all the way open and locking the collar to the chuck. The chuck will come off in the regular lefty loosey configuration. It may be stubborn. If this is the case, You may have to cut the collar off the chuck and use a pipe wrench. Or bring it to a professional to get it changed out.

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1 Answer


I'm not familiar with that brand, but it sounds like your chuck just fell apart.
It can be reassembled, but a better and more long lasting fix would be to get a replacement chuck and swap them out. This will save you what could turn into hours of frustration, attempting to repair the old chuck only to find it still doesn't spin freely or tighten correctly.
Note the numbers on the side of the chuck itself, as well as the tool make and model #. There's no need to replace it with the same brand, but what is essential is that you find the correct chuck mount for your drill. (This is usually a number code like 2JT, 3JT, etc.) If this is not marked on the chuck, you'll have to know the diameter and thread pitch of the shaft the chuck screws onto.
Other than that, you merely need to decide the capacity (size drill bit allowed) of the chuck you wish to put on your drill.

Do a web search about drill chucks and you can find many suppliers that will be happy to sell you a new one, and you'll soon be drilling with the best of them...
Hope you find this helpful! If so, please take the time to rate this post.

Mar 25, 2009 | Drills

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