Question about Heating & Cooling
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Check your wiring between the contactor and compressor for a short to ground, or check the compressor windings for short to ground.
With the Tstat off, the contactor should be open so the only way for the compressor to be trying to do anything is if the 110 volts from the unbroken side are traveling through the compressor to ground. Since 110v is not enough to run it, the overload is kicking it out, cooling off, and repeating the cycle. When you kick on the Tstat, the contactor is supplying voltage directly to ground without going through the resistence of the compressor windings and kicking the breaker.
Post back and let me know what you find.
Posted on Nov 20, 2007
SOURCE: intertherm heat pump
FIRST YOUR OUTSIDE UNIT PROVIDES HEAT BY USING A REVERSING VALVE TO CHANGE THE REFRIGERANT FLOW.THERE IS NO HEAT STRIPS OUTSIDE SECOND YOUR EMERGENCY HEAT TURNS ON ELECTRIC ELEMENTS INSIDE YOUR AIRHANDLER UNIT.IT SOUNDS LIKE SOMEONE HAS WIRED YOUR UNIT WRONG OR HAS THE THERMOSTAT SET IMPROPERLY.WHEN THE HEAT PUMP CANNOT SATTISFY THE SETPOINT THE THERMOSTAT IS SUPPOSED TO TURN ON YOUR ELEC. HEAT UNTILL THE LOAD HAS BEEN REACHED AND THE HEAT PUMP CAN CONTINUE TO MAINTAIN IT.
Posted on Nov 29, 2007
SOURCE: ruud heat pump outside fan
You may be right in looking at the motor. It uses a different speed on heat than cool. The heat cycle uses low speed, usually red. Some manufactures use blue (medium). Cool uses black, high speed. If you are confident, switch the low speed wire with the high speed and see if this changes anything. If the fan motor isn't the problem, check the other setting (cool) if the overload trips, you may need to look into a new capacitor or compressor, if so, you can install a hard start kit. these are start boosters, and are inexpensice, sometimes they will give another year out of the comp. but I've put them on and they have lasted 5 years.
Posted on Mar 15, 2008
It sounds like your defrost board failed. You will need a tech to replace it. With that model it may have a parts warranty but you pay labor(?)
Posted on Jan 18, 2009
Trace the wires (small cable) going to the out door unit. This is your 24v control circuit. when it enters the outdoor unit it ties to wires routing through the inside of the unit trace these down. For AC units 1 usually goes directly to the "contactor" (the item you push in and the unit runs?) the other wire can also go to the other side of this same item. But I suspect it goes through other tings before it finally gets there.
Some items are the high and low pressure switches and a delay timer.
A red button sticking out where you can reset it is the high pressure switch and if it clicks and lets it come on you may have a dirty outdoor coil or a fan motor outdoor that is not operating all time.
A low pressure switch has no reset normally on AC or HP.
A delay timer will have 2 3 or 4 wires depending on the type of timer. 1 of these wires goes to the contactor (usually) and one of them feed this wire. remove the wire going to the contactor. now 1 at a time take the other timer wires and touch them to the wire just removed. if the times is bad the contactor will click when you touch one of them with the removed wire.
If its a heat pump you will have to make the contactor try to come on around the board. and this you will need some knowledge on which and what feeds your contactor. Here Id suggest a technician. If I had a way to see your setup and wiring I could talk you through this but its too hard to type and would take way too long.
Posted on Jun 27, 2009
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