Question about Washing Machines
I have sanyo asw-ep70a washing machine. It stopped when it came to the last step of dry spinning (last 8-10 min) and show error code E3. I found E3 is meaned not balance clothes, so I re-arranged the clothes but it didn't work. I had to remove the clothes and left only 7-8 shirts, then it worked (but I didn't sure the motor had weaker sound or not.) However, all the clothes I washed was just 2/3-3/4 of maximum (45 liter of water, max is 65 liter.) I still don't dare to wash again, because I don't know it will cause more broken or not. What is the problem part? Can I fix it myself or I have to call for service? In case I don't have warranty, how much dose it cost if I call for repair service?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If it spins the balance is okay. Check out your filter now. And then the pump (after the spigot prob below)
Check your exit hose spigot, it may be clogged. This is if your filter is all clean. There should be air for passage in the standpipe behind. Your hose should not fit airtight into the standpipe and neither too deep into it. Snaking out your standpipe would be good too.
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Posted on Jan 06, 2008
SOURCE: Candy CN146
0I have a candy intergraded washine machine ,could you tell me where the filter is please as the wash finish but still has water in, I put the cycle on to the water discharge and it emptys,then i put it onto a spin which works fine. But i need to know the problem
Posted on Nov 11, 2008
SOURCE: washer not spinning or draining
Same problem. Water wouldn't drain, no trouble codes, door wouldn't unlock. When the Rinse and Spin cycle or Drain cycle was selected all I got was a growling humm from the pump. Clued in by the above postings I pulled the washer away from the wall, tipped it back so it leaned against the wall with the bottom fully exposed and removed the plastic panel covering the bottom (underneath - 4 screws) of the machine. The small pump was just where these postings said it would be, top right of the bottom opening. Disconnect the two drain hoses from the pump. Mine were connected with hose clamps that I removed with just my thumb and fore-finger. I had two quarters AND a nickel lodged inside the pump and was able to coax them out without removing the pump. Replaced the hoses and bottom panel, tipped upright and I was back in business - didn't even have to unplug (Its never a bad idea to do so) or disconnect the water hoses.
Posted on May 27, 2009
Looks like you have either a stuck drum (does not spin) or an electrical fault that make the washer think the drum is not moving.
From a 2006 Technical Bulletin:
E3: Machine control is attempting to drive the motor but is not seeing any tach response. Visual Check shows motor is not moving. (Locked or Hall Sensor fault.)
Specifically, it could be:
1. Spin drum stuck – Verify that the spinner moves freely to eliminate this cause.
2. Hall Sensor (integral part of motor) fails or is loose – When the Hall Sensor fails or becomes dislodged, the control doesn't recognize that the motor is spinning and shuts down. The result will likely be an “E3” code in the worst case, or “SUdS” if it is only getting a partial rpm reading. Check wire harness connector(s) to motor.
Unless you are really overloading your machine you likely have an electrical fault, or a failure in the drive train--especially if the problem is intermittent. Probably time to call in a technician.
Posted on Aug 13, 2009
Check on the machine there is a schamatic and it has error codes on it. it may be on the in side panel.
Posted on Oct 11, 2009
Testimonial: "cool thanks for that just empty the tub then will check for skidmatics"
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