Question about Bosch B22CS50SNW Linea 500 Counter Depth Side by Side Refrigerator in

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Ice maker not working

Metal plate broke in half inside the ice maker. I removed it. I can get ice using the ground ice function, but I hear a bad motor noise when I try to get ice using the cube function.

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4 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

jonniewalker
  • 1029 Answers

SOURCE: Bosch Side by Side, top shelves dont freeze food, bottom does

majority of refrigerators today are equipped with an automatic icemaker. The water valve supplying the icemaker is a key component of the icemaking system, and it should be the first thing you check if the icemaker's performance is erratic or if the icemaker stops working. When the icemaker calls for ice, its switch closes an electrical circuit and energizes the solenoid-operated water valve. This allows water to flow through the valve and into the ice cube tray. The water is frozen into cubes, and the cubes are dumped into the ice bin. As time passes, strange things may happen to the refrigerator's icemaking capability. The cubes may be small or there may be a solid chunk of ice instead of individual cubes. It's also possible that the icemaker will stop working. These are all signs of a malfunctioning water valve. The valve is equipped with a screen on its inlet to remove minerals and sediments in the water supply. Over time, minerals and sediment build up on the screen and restrict flow through the valve, or even block it completely. Minerals that make it through the screen can cause the valve to stick in the open position, overfilling the ice cube tray in the process. This is a common problem in areas with hard water, but it can happen just about anywhere. Another malfunction that will cause the icemaker to stop working is a break in the solenoid coil winding. This is known as an open coil. The coil winding generates a magnetic field as current passes through it, and this magnetic field opens the plunger valve that controls water flow. A break in the coil winding stops current flow and this prevents the valve from operating. Test And Inspect The icemaker's valve is easy to inspect and test. First, gently pull the refrigerator away from the wall, and unplug it. Turn off the water supply to the icemaker by closing the shut-off valve in the copper waterline leading to the valve (Fig. 1). Use a screwdriver or nutdriver to remove the rear lower access panel from the refrigerator's back. Next, remove the fill tubing from the water valve. Use a wrench to loosen the flare nut on the brass fitting on the inlet side of the valve (above). Place a container under the valve to catch the small amount of water that will spill from the valve and tubing. Now use a screwdriver or a nutdriver to remove the screw holding the valve's mounting bracket to the refrigerator cabinet (Fig. 2). Pull the valve out of the compartment and remove the tube on the valve's outlet. Then, remove the solenoid's electrical contacts (Fig. 3).

Posted on Mar 29, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: ice maker not working bosch refridgerator

Had the same problem. If there is ice in the bin make sure the ice bin is in all the way. there is a
drive gear in the back that has to be engaged. If the
bin is emty open the little door where you can see
if there is ice, on the left you will see the square
end of the ice maker unit. Slip your fingers under
the front face, palm of your hand facing up so you
can feel the bottom of the front of the unit. Over
to the left you will feel a button that you can not
see. Just push it in for a few seconds and the unit
should start. One other thing, make sure the limit
switch is pulled down, thats the plastic on the
wire which shuts the unit off if it is full. Good Luck.

Posted on Nov 01, 2009

imufo2
  • 3773 Answers

SOURCE: water dispenser stopped working. Ice

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
Check Temp inside freezer. It has to be down to about 10 or 15 degrees
This can cause slow ice making if its too high even tho its freezing everything else at 25 degrees
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
The icemaker is 110v
See if water is in icemaker.
Pour water in Ice Maker and wait to see if it ejects.
If it ejects thenyou need to replace water valve in rear bottom of fridge(Its the part that
attaches to water line out of wall)
If it doesn't eject then it is a faulty Ice Maker.
If its leaking or no water at icemaker or door either one, then the valve at the rear bottom of ref needs replacing
First I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if freezer control is turned WARMER, which makes the Ref. colder
Also if it is getting drinking water to the door but not to the icemaker (or vice versa) Then you need to replace
the water valve at the bottom rear of the fridge. It is a double valve and one side is not working
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
If you still have trouble GO HERE:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

I'm
including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
PLEASE GIVE A TESTIMONIAL AND VOTE FOUR THUMBS UP IF THIS WAS HELPFUL

Posted on Aug 21, 2011

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1 Answer

I get an Error code Er if on my LG refrigerator, what can I do?


Hello Janet;



My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.



Based on your problem I do not need your model number. This is a high maintenance unit. You have a bottom freezer with the ice maker and bucket on the fresh food section door.



The error code IF is the ice maker fan. You have two fans, one for the freezer and one for the ice maker.



First, ice makers and ice buckets belong in the freezer section. When they are on the door they are exposed to the warm room air temperature and condensate forms freezing the ice cubs together. Then you open and close the fresh food section door you force warm air down the air vents to your ice maker fan and your ice maker fan freezes up and burns out trying to start.


25681977-ebcjyrvherokzlkldixpqrtk-2-2.jpg

Part #: 5209JA1044A Cost: $75.00


You can purchase it over the internet for a lot less.

Base on what you described, I suspect your ice maker fan over loaded your control board and damaged it.


25681977-ebcjyrvherokzlkldixpqrtk-2-5.jpg

Part #: EBR41956418 Cost: $125.00 You can get this over the internet for about $80.00 or less.


Now, how do you want to do this?

1.) You can pay for a $400.00-$450.00 service call?

2.) Or do it dirty. Kill the power to the ice maker fan and purchase ice cube trays and put them in your freezer.

a.) Purchase a new control board.

b.) Take the bottom kick plate off the front of the unit. You will need to pull the bottom freezer door out to do this. There are two fillips head screws holding this on. Remove the screws and the kicker plate, also called the toe plate.

c.) In the front there are 2 leveling screws. One on each side. These are hard to raise, you do not have much to grab on. I use channel locks. Turn counter clockwise to raise and clear the floor.

d.) Pull your unit out so you can get behind it.

e.) Behind the unit unplug the unit.

f.) On the left side there is a metal cover plate over your main control board.

g.) GROUND YOURSELF BY TOUCHING SOMETHING THAT IS BARE METAL. STATIC ELECTRICITY WILL KNOCK OUT YOU NEW CONTROL BOARD.

h.) Remove the metal cover - unscrew.

I.) There are several white pins holding the board on. There is a small leg on each pin that must be pressed in to release the board.

j.) Systematically go around the control board disconnecting one connector at a time and connecting to the new board. Each connector has a tab to squeeze to release.

k.) Push the board back onto the white retaining pins.

l.) Now we are going to disconnect the freezer fan. On the control board each connector is marked with a number below it. Look for, "CON 7". You are going to cut the two wires to disconnect power to your ice maker fan.

j.) On the Con 7, on the left cut the yellow wire with the black stripe and the solid blue wire. CUT THESE WIRES ABOUT 2" AWAY FROM THE CONNECTOR IN THE EVENT YOU WISH TO REPLACE THE ICE MAKER FAN IN THE FUTURE.



I would have thought with all of the recalls under warrantee that LG has had on this model that they would have stopped manufacture.



Where in the mountains is your unit?

May 05, 2015 | LG Refrigerators

1 Answer

Ice maker began leaking/freezing. Now its frozen over and not producing ice. How to fix


Ice Maker Is Frozen Up This ice maker repair is even easier. If your ice maker has frozen up, take the following steps to thaw it out:

1Unplug the refrigerator.Remove the ice bin from the refrigerator and remove any loose ice from the ice maker.

2Find the fill tube.This is awhite rubber-like hose that delivers water to the ice maker. Pull down the small metal clip off the housing that holds the fill tube (though not all ice makers have this clip).

3Warm the hoseand surrounding mechanism. To do this, you can train a hair dryer on the ice maker to melt any ice blocking the mechanism. But be very careful (sop up any dripping water with a rag) as electricity and water can present a serious risk of electrical shock. Also, be careful not to melt the plastic parts.

4If you don't want to use a hair dryer,you can soak the supply tubing with hot water, using a turkey baster and catching the overflow in the empty ice maker bin. In some cases, it may be easier to remove the ice maker than to thaw out the fill tube.

On heat release ice makers You will want to check the heating element within the ice maker for continuity and a visual inspection of the board and conductors for burns and seizing, chared marks.
How to Test the Ice Mold Heater There are two types of ice makers, those in which all of the parts can be individually replaced and those in which some of the parts are clustered together into a control module. To determine which model you have remove the outer face plate. If there is knob, pull it off first, then pry off the face plate with a small screwdriver. Modular units have holes in the module's face plate for test probes. If you see several holes, each marked with a letter, it is a modular unit. It is easier to work on this type of unit by first removing the entireicemakerfrom the freezer compartment. The unit is usually mounted to the freezer case by two or more screws. Remove the bottom screws first. While supporting the ice maker, remove the remaining top screws. Unplug the ice maker from the freezer cabinet if you have not already done so. Along the edge nearest the shutoff arm, a pin protrudes through the mounting plate . The arm pin has a spring under the mounting plate. Reduce the tension on the spring by moving the shutoff arm into the "on" position, down, against the ice maker.
Test the heater for resistance using amultitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each of the two terminals (or wires). The reading should be in the range of 60 to 90 ohms. If you get a significantly different reading, such as zero or infinity, then the mold heater is bad and needs to be replaced. Conduct this test with the refrigerator unplugged. Test the moldheaterfor resistance using amultitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place one probe into the hole labeled "H" and the other probe into the hole labeled "L". The multitester should read in the range of 60 to 90 ohms.
Also be sure to check and test water valve with a meter for continuity and voltage..( a full 120 and nothing less) And a visual inspection for any ice build up or blockage in tubing and flow line. Remember u may get a close circuit reading of continuity however it may still be bad in that it may remain constantly closed and water keeps flowing more than suppose to. Hence chunks of ice build up.

Apr 14, 2015 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Fghb2844lf6 ice is clumping together not letting the auger spin


This ice maker repair is even easier. If your ice maker has frozen up, take the following steps to thaw it out:

1Unplug the refrigerator.Remove the ice bin from the refrigerator and remove any loose ice from the ice maker.

2Find the fill tube.This is awhite rubber-like hose that delivers water to the ice maker. Pull down the small metal clip off the housing that holds the fill tube (though not all ice makers have this clip).

3Warm the hoseand surrounding mechanism. To do this, you can train a hair dryer on the ice maker to melt any ice blocking the mechanism. But be very careful (sop up any dripping water with a rag) as electricity and water can present a serious risk of electrical shock. Also, be careful not to melt the plastic parts.

4If you don't want to use a hair dryer,you can soak the supply tubing with hot water, using a turkey baster and catching the overflow in the empty ice maker bin. In some cases, it may be easier to remove the ice maker than to thaw out the fill tube.

On heat release ice makers You will want to check the heating element within the ice maker for continuity and a visual inspection of the board and conductors for burns and seizing, chared marks.
How to Test the Ice Mold Heater There are two types of ice makers, those in which all of the parts can be individually replaced and those in which some of the parts are clustered together into a control module. To determine which model you have remove the outer face plate. If there is knob, pull it off first, then pry off the face plate with a small screwdriver. Modular units have holes in the module's face plate for test probes. If you see several holes, each marked with a letter, it is a modular unit. It is easier to work on this type of unit by first removing the entireicemakerfrom the freezer compartment. The unit is usually mounted to the freezer case by two or more screws. Remove the bottom screws first. While supporting the ice maker, remove the remaining top screws. Unplug the ice maker from the freezer cabinet if you have not already done so. Along the edge nearest the shutoff arm, a pin protrudes through the mounting plate . The arm pin has a spring under the mounting plate. Reduce the tension on the spring by moving the shutoff arm into the "on" position, down, against the ice maker.
Test the heater for resistance using amultitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each of the two terminals (or wires). The reading should be in the range of 60 to 90 ohms. If you get a significantly different reading, such as zero or infinity, then the mold heater is bad and needs to be replaced. Conduct this test with the refrigerator unplugged. Test the moldheaterfor resistance using amultitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place one probe into the hole labeled "H" and the other probe into the hole labeled "L". The multitester should read in the range of 60 to 90 ohms.
Also be sure to check and test water valve with a meter for continuity and voltage..( a full 120 and nothing less) And a visual inspection for any ice build up or blockage in tubing and flow line. Remember u may get a close circuit reading of continuity however it may still be bad in that it may remain constantly closed and water keeps flowing more than suppose to. Hence chunks of ice build up.

Apr 09, 2015 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Ice maker freezes up an turn arm comes on but no ice can distance for it stays frozen solid


Ice Maker Is Frozen Up This ice maker repair is even easier. If your ice maker has frozen up, take the following steps to thaw it out:

1Unplug the refrigerator.Remove the ice bin from the refrigerator and remove any loose ice from the ice maker.

2Find the fill tube.This is awhite rubber-like hose that delivers water to the ice maker. Pull down the small metal clip off the housing that holds the fill tube (though not all ice makers have this clip).

3Warm the hoseand surrounding mechanism. To do this, you can train a hair dryer on the ice maker to melt any ice blocking the mechanism. But be very careful (sop up any dripping water with a rag) as electricity and water can present a serious risk of electrical shock. Also, be careful not to melt the plastic parts.

4If you don't want to use a hair dryer,you can soak the supply tubing with hot water, using a turkey baster and catching the overflow in the empty ice maker bin. In some cases, it may be easier to remove the ice maker than to thaw out the fill tube.

On heat release ice makers You will want to check the heating element within the ice maker for continuity and a visual inspection of the board and conductors for burns and seizing, chared marks.
How to Test the Ice Mold Heater There are two types of ice makers, those in which all of the parts can be individually replaced and those in which some of the parts are clustered together into a control module. To determine which model you have remove the outer face plate. If there is knob, pull it off first, then pry off the face plate with a small screwdriver. Modular units have holes in the module's face plate for test probes. If you see several holes, each marked with a letter, it is a modular unit. It is easier to work on this type of unit by first removing the entireicemakerfrom the freezer compartment. The unit is usually mounted to the freezer case by two or more screws. Remove the bottom screws first. While supporting the ice maker, remove the remaining top screws. Unplug the ice maker from the freezer cabinet if you have not already done so. Along the edge nearest the shutoff arm, a pin protrudes through the mounting plate . The arm pin has a spring under the mounting plate. Reduce the tension on the spring by moving the shutoff arm into the "on" position, down, against the ice maker.
Test the heater for resistance using amultitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each of the two terminals (or wires). The reading should be in the range of 60 to 90 ohms. If you get a significantly different reading, such as zero or infinity, then the mold heater is bad and needs to be replaced. Conduct this test with the refrigerator unplugged. Test the moldheaterfor resistance using amultitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place one probe into the hole labeled "H" and the other probe into the hole labeled "L". The multitester should read in the range of 60 to 90 ohms.
Also be sure to check and test water valve with a meter for continuity and voltage..( a full 120 and nothing less) And a visual inspection for any ice build up or blockage in tubing and flow line. Remember u may get a close circuit reading of continuity however it may still be bad in that it may remain constantly closed and water keeps flowing more than suppose to. Hence chunks of ice build up.

Apr 07, 2015 | Samsung RS267TDPN Side by Side...

1 Answer

Why does my Samsung French Door refrigerator lower ice maker flood with water then freeze up, so you can't get the door open ?


EVAPORATOR DRAIN LINE PLUGGED?

OR Ice Maker Is Frozen Up This ice maker repair is even easier. If your ice maker has frozen up, take the following steps to thaw it out:

1Unplug the refrigerator.Remove the ice bin from the refrigerator and remove any loose ice from the ice maker.

2Find the fill tube.This is awhite rubber-like hose that delivers water to the ice maker. Pull down the small metal clip off the housing that holds the fill tube (though not all ice makers have this clip).

3Warm the hoseand surrounding mechanism. To do this, you can train a hair dryer on the ice maker to melt any ice blocking the mechanism. But be very careful (sop up any dripping water with a rag) as electricity and water can present a serious risk of electrical shock. Also, be careful not to melt the plastic parts.

4If you don't want to use a hair dryer,you can soak the supply tubing with hot water, using a turkey baster and catching the overflow in the empty ice maker bin. In some cases, it may be easier to remove the ice maker than to thaw out the fill tube.

On heat release ice makers You will want to check the heating element within the ice maker for continuity and a visual inspection of the board and conductors for burns and seizing, chared marks.
How to Test the Ice Mold Heater There are two types of ice makers, those in which all of the parts can be individually replaced and those in which some of the parts are clustered together into a control module. To determine which model you have remove the outer face plate. If there is knob, pull it off first, then pry off the face plate with a small screwdriver. Modular units have holes in the module's face plate for test probes. If you see several holes, each marked with a letter, it is a modular unit. It is easier to work on this type of unit by first removing the entireicemakerfrom the freezer compartment. The unit is usually mounted to the freezer case by two or more screws. Remove the bottom screws first. While supporting the ice maker, remove the remaining top screws. Unplug the ice maker from the freezer cabinet if you have not already done so. Along the edge nearest the shutoff arm, a pin protrudes through the mounting plate . The arm pin has a spring under the mounting plate. Reduce the tension on the spring by moving the shutoff arm into the "on" position, down, against the ice maker.
Test the heater for resistance using amultitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each of the two terminals (or wires). The reading should be in the range of 60 to 90 ohms. If you get a significantly different reading, such as zero or infinity, then the mold heater is bad and needs to be replaced. Conduct this test with the refrigerator unplugged. Test the moldheaterfor resistance using amultitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place one probe into the hole labeled "H" and the other probe into the hole labeled "L". The multitester should read in the range of 60 to 90 ohms.
Also be sure to check and test water valve with a meter for continuity and voltage..( a full 120 and nothing less) And a visual inspection for any ice build up or blockage in tubing and flow line. Remember u may get a close circuit reading of continuity however it may still be bad in that it may remain constantly closed and water keeps flowing more than suppose to. Hence chunks of ice build up.

Jan 14, 2015 | Samsung Refrigerators

1 Answer

Ice in ice maker seems to be melting and I have big chunks of ice instead of ice cubes. What can I do????


Ice Maker Is Frozen Up This ice maker repair is even easier. If your ice maker has frozen up, take the following steps to thaw it out:

1Unplug the refrigerator.Remove the ice bin from the refrigerator and remove any loose ice from the ice maker.

2Find the fill tube.This is awhite rubber-like hose that delivers water to the ice maker. Pull down the small metal clip off the housing that holds the fill tube (though not all ice makers have this clip).

3Warm the hoseand surrounding mechanism. To do this, you can train a hair dryer on the ice maker to melt any ice blocking the mechanism. But be very careful (sop up any dripping water with a rag) as electricity and water can present a serious risk of electrical shock. Also, be careful not to melt the plastic parts.

4If you don't want to use a hair dryer,you can soak the supply tubing with hot water, using a turkey baster and catching the overflow in the empty ice maker bin. In some cases, it may be easier to remove the ice maker than to thaw out the fill tube.

On heat release ice makers You will want to check the heating element within the ice maker for continuity and a visual inspection of the board and conductors for burns and seizing, chared marks.
How to Test the Ice Mold Heater There are two types of ice makers, those in which all of the parts can be individually replaced and those in which some of the parts are clustered together into a control module. To determine which model you have remove the outer face plate. If there is knob, pull it off first, then pry off the face plate with a small screwdriver. Modular units have holes in the module's face plate for test probes. If you see several holes, each marked with a letter, it is a modular unit. It is easier to work on this type of unit by first removing the entireicemakerfrom the freezer compartment. The unit is usually mounted to the freezer case by two or more screws. Remove the bottom screws first. While supporting the ice maker, remove the remaining top screws. Unplug the ice maker from the freezer cabinet if you have not already done so. Along the edge nearest the shutoff arm, a pin protrudes through the mounting plate . The arm pin has a spring under the mounting plate. Reduce the tension on the spring by moving the shutoff arm into the "on" position, down, against the ice maker.
Test the heater for resistance using amultitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each of the two terminals (or wires). The reading should be in the range of 60 to 90 ohms. If you get a significantly different reading, such as zero or infinity, then the mold heater is bad and needs to be replaced. Conduct this test with the refrigerator unplugged. Test the moldheaterfor resistance using amultitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place one probe into the hole labeled "H" and the other probe into the hole labeled "L". The multitester should read in the range of 60 to 90 ohms.
Also be sure to check and test water valve with a meter for continuity and voltage..( a full 120 and nothing less) And a visual inspection for any ice build up or blockage in tubing and flow line. Remember u may get a close circuit reading of continuity however it may still be bad in that it may remain constantly closed and water keeps flowing more than suppose to. Hence chunks of ice build up.

Sep 25, 2014 | Samsung RFG237AARS Bottom Freezer French...

1 Answer

Why does my ice maker tray overfills


Ice Maker Doesn't Turn Off If your ice maker keeps making ice, even when it is full:
1Lift the bail wireto shut off the ice maker, and remove the ice bin. Then, using a screwdriver if necessary, remove the ice maker, clean it thoroughly, and then reinstall it.
2If the problem persists,consider removing and replace the entire ice maker and valve. With this type of problem, you can have it repaired, but it's often wiser and less expensive in the long run to replace the unit entirely.















Ice Maker Is Frozen Up This ice maker repair is even easier. If your ice maker has frozen up, take the following steps to thaw it out:

1Unplug the refrigerator.Remove the ice bin from the refrigerator and remove any loose ice from the ice maker.

2Find the fill tube.This is awhite rubber-like hose that delivers water to the ice maker. Pull down the small metal clip off the housing that holds the fill tube (though not all ice makers have this clip).

3Warm the hoseand surrounding mechanism. To do this, you can train a hair dryer on the ice maker to melt any ice blocking the mechanism. But be very careful (sop up any dripping water with a rag) as electricity and water can present a serious risk of electrical shock. Also, be careful not to melt the plastic parts.

4If you don't want to use a hair dryer,you can soak the supply tubing with hot water, using a turkey baster and catching the overflow in the empty ice maker bin. In some cases, it may be easier to remove the ice maker than to thaw out the fill tube.

On heat release ice makers You will want to check the heating element within the ice maker for continuity and a visual inspection of the board and conductors for burns and seizing, chared marks.
How to Test the Ice Mold Heater There are two types of ice makers, those in which all of the parts can be individually replaced and those in which some of the parts are clustered together into a control module. To determine which model you have remove the outer face plate. If there is knob, pull it off first, then pry off the face plate with a small screwdriver. Modular units have holes in the module's face plate for test probes. If you see several holes, each marked with a letter, it is a modular unit. It is easier to work on this type of unit by first removing the entireicemakerfrom the freezer compartment. The unit is usually mounted to the freezer case by two or more screws. Remove the bottom screws first. While supporting the ice maker, remove the remaining top screws. Unplug the ice maker from the freezer cabinet if you have not already done so. Along the edge nearest the shutoff arm, a pin protrudes through the mounting plate . The arm pin has a spring under the mounting plate. Reduce the tension on the spring by moving the shutoff arm into the "on" position, down, against the ice maker.
Test the heater for resistance using amultitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each of the two terminals (or wires). The reading should be in the range of 60 to 90 ohms. If you get a significantly different reading, such as zero or infinity, then the mold heater is bad and needs to be replaced. Conduct this test with the refrigerator unplugged. Test the moldheaterfor resistance using amultitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place one probe into the hole labeled "H" and the other probe into the hole labeled "L". The multitester should read in the range of 60 to 90 ohms.
Also be sure to check and test water valve with a meter for continuity and voltage..( a full 120 and nothing less) And a visual inspection for any ice build up or blockage in tubing and flow line. Remember u may get a close circuit reading of continuity however it may still be bad in that it may remain constantly closed and water keeps flowing more than suppose to. Hence chunks of ice build up.

Aug 12, 2014 | Samsung RF265AB (258 cu ft) Bottom Freezer...

1 Answer

Water leaks down into ice box tray and freezes causing all the ice cubes to freez into one big lump then dispencer will not operate


Ice Maker Doesn't Turn Off If your ice maker keeps making ice, even when it is full:
1Lift the bail wireto shut off the ice maker, and remove the ice bin. Then, using a screwdriver if necessary, remove the ice maker, clean it thoroughly, and then reinstall it.
2If the problem persists,consider removing and replace the entire ice maker and valve. With this type of problem, you can have it repaired, but it's often wiser and less expensive in the long run to replace the unit entirely.















Ice Maker Is Frozen Up This ice maker repair is even easier. If your ice maker has frozen up, take the following steps to thaw it out:

1Unplug the refrigerator.Remove the ice bin from the refrigerator and remove any loose ice from the ice maker.

2Find the fill tube.This is awhite rubber-like hose that delivers water to the ice maker. Pull down the small metal clip off the housing that holds the fill tube (though not all ice makers have this clip).

3Warm the hoseand surrounding mechanism. To do this, you can train a hair dryer on the ice maker to melt any ice blocking the mechanism. But be very careful (sop up any dripping water with a rag) as electricity and water can present a serious risk of electrical shock. Also, be careful not to melt the plastic parts.

4If you don't want to use a hair dryer,you can soak the supply tubing with hot water, using a turkey baster and catching the overflow in the empty ice maker bin. In some cases, it may be easier to remove the ice maker than to thaw out the fill tube.

On heat release ice makers You will want to check the heating element within the ice maker for continuity and a visual inspection of the board and conductors for burns and seizing, chared marks.
How to Test the Ice Mold Heater There are two types of ice makers, those in which all of the parts can be individually replaced and those in which some of the parts are clustered together into a control module. To determine which model you have remove the outer face plate. If there is knob, pull it off first, then pry off the face plate with a small screwdriver. Modular units have holes in the module's face plate for test probes. If you see several holes, each marked with a letter, it is a modular unit. It is easier to work on this type of unit by first removing the entireicemakerfrom the freezer compartment. The unit is usually mounted to the freezer case by two or more screws. Remove the bottom screws first. While supporting the ice maker, remove the remaining top screws. Unplug the ice maker from the freezer cabinet if you have not already done so. Along the edge nearest the shutoff arm, a pin protrudes through the mounting plate . The arm pin has a spring under the mounting plate. Reduce the tension on the spring by moving the shutoff arm into the "on" position, down, against the ice maker.
Test the heater for resistance using amultitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each of the two terminals (or wires). The reading should be in the range of 60 to 90 ohms. If you get a significantly different reading, such as zero or infinity, then the mold heater is bad and needs to be replaced. Conduct this test with the refrigerator unplugged. Test the moldheaterfor resistance using amultitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place one probe into the hole labeled "H" and the other probe into the hole labeled "L". The multitester should read in the range of 60 to 90 ohms.
Also be sure to check and test water valve with a meter for continuity and voltage..( a full 120 and nothing less) And a visual inspection for any ice build up or blockage in tubing and flow line. Remember u may get a close circuit reading of continuity however it may still be bad in that it may remain constantly closed and water keeps flowing more than suppose to. Hence chunks of ice build up.

Apr 30, 2014 | Samsung Refrigerator Ice Maker -...

1 Answer

Ice maker stopped working


I would first check around the condensing area for lint and dust buildup and clean that up. Just doing so can sometimes get the ice maker cold enough to start producing ice. Their are 2 components that are responsible for ice production. The ice maker and the water valve. As the ice maker dumps a batch of ice near the end of that harvest cycle the ice maker powers up the water valve for 7and a half seconds. How. A probe rubs on a copper plate mounted on the inside of the main gear. Here is how she works: The ice mold thermostat gets down to around 28f. This makes it close contacts and power up the mold heater and the motor. As the ice loosens up and moves a bit you hear a click. That click kills power to the ice mold heater. The motor continues on around to dump the ice. After the ice goes home to bucketsville the copper plate rubs against the water solenoid probe and water is sent up the backsides of the icebox to the ice mold for 7.5 seconds. If you are careful you can remove that wheel and clean that plate. A simple test and a manual HERE

Aug 18, 2010 | Whirlpool Refrigerators

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