Question about Microwave Ovens
I had a burnt out light under the microwave so I decided to replace both light. What a difference! Then a day later neither light works. The clock & inside light both work. What's the problem? Can I fix it?
If you had too high a wattage the excess heat may have melted the wires or ruined the switch.
Posted on Nov 28, 2013
Testimonial: "Thank you for the response. Any other ideas? I used the bulbs called out in the manual-tubular 40 W bulbs."
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I had same problem last week. My GE JVM1650 Spacemaker stopped after a few seconds of heating. Owned 16 months, manufactured Jan 2005. It was the magnetron, which was replaced yesterday. The magnetron has a 10-year warranty, but I had to pay $161.00 for labor by a GE technician. The call-out fee was waived at my request. I don't know what that amount would have been, but I can't believe the $161.00 for what was about 1/2 hour labor once diagnosed. Good Luck!
Posted on Sep 21, 2006
Sounds like the problem is in the high voltage. Most common would be magnatron, capacitor and diode. For safety reasons this should be checked by a professional. Look in your owners manual because some high voltage parts have a longer warranty than 1 yr.
Posted on Oct 10, 2007
To Person who answered Best Solution above,
This worked nicely thank you.
After removing my circuit board the long silver strip was intact, however where it makes the turn about quarter inch, the solder or foil seam had a break in it which I filled-gap with solder.
My guess is if the "foil" or thin 2" long strip is serving as a fuse, it would still melt again even with my solder on the shorter section, in event of overload. Also seen on the plastic area directly behind where the circuit board would mount, and where the "foil" was blown, was a small blackened area as evidence of the blown foil. 2 new bulbs and all is well again Thanks!
Posted on Feb 09, 2008
A microwave can be dead for many reasons.
If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.
If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.
Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.
When checking thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.
If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.
If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.
If it goes dead or blows the breaker when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.
If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.
You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.
If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.
If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
NOTE: There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting.
We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Jun 08, 2008
You can see and hear a video of how a turntable motor should sound when you rotate it by hand.
If yours is not set to be off via the control panel, and it won't rotate or it sounds like it's grinding, etc., you may have a bad motor or plastic coupler.
To replace either, you need to unplug power, then remove the bottom cover of the oven.
If yours is a GE, you can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.
If yours is a GE, there should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.
We're happy to help you and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Aug 02, 2008
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