An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.
An expert who has answered 20 questions.
Re: fridge not cooling or freezing
Work on the fridge problem first and the freezer may be fixed by that.
1/Thermostats lose sensitivity over time. The thermostat or sensor may be defective.
2/ You have lost some of your refrigerant and it is undercharged. It does evaporate very slowly but a pinhole would lose it in minutes.
Do not continue to run it or your compressor may overheat and fail. The sides of the fridge are probably quite warm from this happening already.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Refrigerators: 36 to 40 degrees. Ideal temp is 37 Fahrenheit.Note: A temp above 42 degrees promotes bacteria. Freezer: temp should be -5 to 6 degrees Fahrenheit. Ideal temp is 0 degrees.
You have to wait about 4 hours for everything to stabilize. If you are still having ice forming inside the freeezer then the rubber seal around the door is probably the problem. If they have a split, tear or crack, etc. it will let warm moist house air into the freezer and turn to ice as it cools. If this happens in the refrigerator it'll turn to water and collect in the bottom of the frig. New seals can cost around $60 per door.
If you pack too much food in the unit it may also cause freezing because the air needs to move around in there and food shouldn't block the vents in the back walls of the unit.
There could be a large list of things that cause the freezer to warm up from the temperature it was before. The most likely reason is you probably have a defrost problem. Defrost heater, defrost thermostat and the defrost control are all things that may have failed. If your model is not a frost free let me know. Look inside freezer for a layer of frost building on the rear wall. If your refrigerator is not defrosting it will be a short time before the fresh food compartment begins to warm. To extend the time your refrigerator and freezer can keep food safe defrost by placing a bucket of hot water inside the freezer and close the door. Please place food from freezer and fresh food compartment into another refrigerator or cold storage area. By keeping doors shut as much as possible the refrigerator and freezer will last up to a week this way before defrosting again, Sea Breeze
One of the most common problems with freezers is their tendency to build up a thick level of frost and ice that can disrupt performance. The ice can form on the hoses and cause the fan to freeze up. While you want the freezer to be cold, too much ice is not good for the freezer or the food inside it. There are multiple reasons a freezer could start to develop frost buildup.
Freezer Overstocked Frost can build up in the freezer if there are too many items inside of it. Air cannot properly circulate around the freezer, so the areas with the sitting cold air can freeze the moisture. Frost continues to build up and accumulate, which then allows it to spread. If food is stocked up near the fan, cold air can't get past it, and the fan itself could develop frost to the point where it freezes and stops working entirely. This can be prevented by not overstocking the freezer and by evenly distributing food throughout.
Temperature Setting Too Low The freezer should have a thermostat that regulates how cold it gets. If the temperature is set at too low of a setting, the freezer kicks into high gear, the air freezes outright and frost quickly builds up. Adjusting the thermostat to a higher temperature or level can counteract this problem, but you may need to de-thaw the freezer to eliminate the frost that has already built up inside.
Keeping the Fridge Door Open Many people keep their fridge door open for extended periods of time while they examine the contents inside to see what they want to eat. This can contribute to frost buildup in the freezer, because the fridge is taking in a lot of warm air during this process and the fan pushes it up into the freezer. The moisture in that air is then quickly frozen, and ice can build up substantially as a result. The longer the fridge door is held open, the more likely this can occur, so the best solution is to only keep the fridge open for short intervals and then to not open the door again for a while.
Hope this tips will help you. : )
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up
on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on
the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence
of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the
freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the
self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately
four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the
self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool.
Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the
circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount
of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils,
cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine
if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable
food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator
to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several
towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow).
This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice
build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal
setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with
one of three components in the self-defrosting system:The defrost timerThe defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)The defrost heaterIf it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem
with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a
qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem
And you are posting because,.......????? You are looking for a second opinion? Don't like the repair estimate?
1. Your freezer is not working great. If it is frosting up, frozen packages will soon beging to soften also.
2. All of the cooling takes place in the freezer compartment. A fan blows air over the coils in the freezer, and directs some of it into the fresh foods side to cool it. When the coils become blocked with frost, the air can no longer flow into the fresh foods compartment. Result is warming of FF area. You may also see freezing in the bottom FF bin, water dispenser not working, FRZ section warm, etc.
3. Manually defrosting the coils will temporarilly solve your problem, but it will reappear in a few days to a week or so. (depending on door openings, ambient temp, etc)
4. The motherboard controls the defrost interval and (although not the most common) certainly can be a cause of defrost failure. If a qualified servicer diagnosed it as such, it most likely is just that.
Check rear wall of freezer by feel for frost. Heavy, even frost indicates likely problem in the defrost system. Unplug unit. Defrost heater (in freezer behind rear wall panel), defrost thermostat (same area-must be checked at freezer temperature) or Defrost timer-located lower back outside of unit. Near compressor. Do continuity test on heater and defrost thermostat and if they show continuity (good), replace defrost timer. If not, replace the one that tests bad.
Defrost coils fully. Reassemble.
Please let me know if I have helped with comments and rating.
Refrigerator will work about 7-10 days after being defrosted until thick frost builds up again cutting off air flow to both compartments
Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload
relay. Check to see if the
condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no
Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should
Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It blows cold
air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and
fridge. Make sure the damper is open.
Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the
back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL)
or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR
Adjust the knob to 3 or 4 which would be the midway temperature.
0 would probably be off or close to it. The 7 would be coldest and freeze water.
If this is manual defrost you need to turn it off and defrost it. The frost will keep it from getting cold enough. The buildup is normal from humid warm air when opening the door. You might get a standalone fridge / freezer thermometer (about $5) to tell you what temperature is. The smell may be food spoiling from warm temperature.