I have a devilbliss pressure washer model EXHA2425. The gas line hose is hanging down not connecting to anything and I don't see where is connects! Sound silly but true. Can you tell me where I can get a diagram of this pressure washer... Thank you! Susan
Hello miss susan if you look good by the carberator more to the top you will see a little pipe sticking out with a little lip like deal that is where that hose go at i hope that i helped you have a bless day
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Re: The tubing from the gasoline is not connected
Devilbliss / Excell pressure washers in this model number range use a Honda GC160 engine. Information on this engine can be found here: http://www.excellpressurewasher.com/documents/pdf/gc160.pdf
This web site also has information about the pump and related parts just look for your model number. I find that pressure washer manuals have very little information about the engine. Small engine / mower repair shops in your area will be happy to give you free information about the where the fuel line attaches. Your engine has a black plastic fuel pump with hoses going to tank and carb. This fuel pump is powered by engine crank/vacuum purssure so there is a third hose from the fuel pump connected to the engine block. Good luck on your repair and email if you have a question or if you have a different engine than mentioned above.
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If you have already replaced the clamp and tightened. The tube itself could be cracked. Loosen and bend the tube and inspect closely to see if cracking or split opens up. If it does then replace the tube.
There could also be a crack/hole on or near the bottom tank connection. This can be difficult to locate but holding the hose barb on the bottom with a finger and pouring a little gas into the tank.
The hole/Crack should be easy to find. Vibration will sometimes cause a crack in this location. Typically I suspect the hose.
Today's gasoline is notorious for degrading gas lines due to the additives and ethanol from corn.
Good luck hope this helps
Relieve the fuel system pressure as described in Section 5.
Unfasten the filter retaining screw and remove the filter from the frame rail.
Wrap a shop towel around the hose connections to catch fuel spillage. Loosen the fuel hose clamps and disconnect the hoses from the filter.
Remove the old fuel filter and replace it with a new one.
Connect the fuel hoses and tighten the hose clamps. Position the filter on the frame rail and tighten the retaining screw to 75 inch lbs. (8 Nm).
1994–96 Gasoline Engines — Except 2.5L
The fuel filter is integrated into the fuel pressure regulator which is mounted in the fuel tank. This unit is not controlled by the PCM or engine vacuum. It is calibrated to deliver approximately 35–45 psi (241–310 kPa) of fuel pressure to the injectors. If the pressure exceeds the maximum of the specified range, an internal diaphragm closes to route fuel back into the fuel tank. This system eliminates the need for conventional return lines from the engine bay and accounts for the name of the "Returnless'' fuel injection system employed in these vehicles.
NOTE: Fuel tank removal is required for this procedure. Also needed will be external snapring pliers and proper hose clamp pliers, such as No. C-4124 pliers (available through Plymouth/Dodge dealers), or equivalent.
Relieve the fuel system pressure as described in Section 5.
Fig. 2: With the fuel tank removed, twist and pull the fuel filter/regulator for removal from the rubber mounting grommet
Drain the fuel tank and remove the tank.
Remove the fuel filter/regulator (which is pressed into a rubber grommet) by twisting and pulling it straight up.
Fig. 3: Use snapring pliers to remove the retainer securing the cover tube to the base of the filter/regulator
Remove the snapring retaining the cover tube, then slide it down to reveal the clear plastic fuel tube and its retaining clamp.
Fig. 4: Cut off the old tube clamp without damaging the plastic fuel tube
Gently cut off the old clamp without damaging the tube, then discard the clamp.
Carefully pull the tube off, then remove the filter/regulator from the fuel pump module.
Install a new clamp over the plastic fuel tube and attach it loosely to the filter/regulator. Rotate the unit in the line until it is pointed to the driver's side of the vehicle.
Tighten the clamp using hose clamp pliers such as No. C-4124 (available through the Plymouth/Dodge dealer).
NOTE: Do not use conventional side cutters to tighten the clamp.
Slide the cover tube up to the bottom of the filter/regulator and install the snapring.
Carefully press the assembly back into the rubber grommet by hand. It should be pointed to the driver's side of the vehicle.
These pumps are notorious for seasonal problems. Tip the unit to the point you can pour engine oil into the water inlet connection. What your attempting to do is free up the ball seats in the pump. They get corroded when they sit and lock in place. Adding the oil or a vast amount of WD 40 to the water inlet often does the trick for loosening up the seat balls and springs. After you add the oil (3 - 4 ounces) or WD 40 to the water inlet line just slowly pull the engine through with the ignition switch off. As the water inlet cavitates add more oil. Let it sit over night and then take a block of wood and a hammer and tap on the power head. Don't over do it and do it in such a manner your not going to shear off any bolts or break anything. But... be serious with the hammer and block of wood. Then connect inlet water hose, the pressure hose and test the unit. You may want to purge the oil lubricant into a bucket before you start the engine. Give it a try and see what happens.
My decisions are being driven by my experience with Poulan chainsaws. Small hose in tank (long enough to reach all corners), filter on bottom, connects to lowest connection on carburetor. Small hose on upper carburetor connection to small fitting on primer. Large hose from large connection on primer through largest tank hole, roughly mid tank long. nothing on bottom. I suggest you leave the 2 connections on the carburetor long enough they can be swapped (just in case) then try it. if no go swap them.
This is how I would configure it if a chainsaw, doubtful they would do something completely different. In defense of Jerry, he knows how it should be done, clarity of instruction could use some help. Good Luck. HTH Lou
Pressure washers are either electric or gasoline powered. Electric pressure washers are low maintenance and quiet. These generally are for light duty. They are handy where you need to work on small confined area, however you need to run power to them and have a pressurized water source. Also the National Electrical Code and Underwriters Laboratories now require ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs) be use when operating an electric pressure washer.
Gas models are recommended for tasks that require more power, such as paint prep, heavy vehicle cleaning, or cleaning heavily soiled concrete.. Gas models start with PSI of 1750 and go as high as 4000. They also offer more portability, as they are not limited by electric cords. Also some gas models can draw water from a source other than the garden hose, which allows you to work away from a water line. All gas models have 4-cycle engines and run on regular unleaded gas.