Question about GE Refrigerators

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Ge dss25ksress About every couple of months or so the freezer section will suddenly rise above freezing. At the same time the refrigerator side goes below freezing. This is the opposite of any behavior previously described. The condenser fan operates but the fan moving air within the cooling sections is silent. Just as suddenly, the situation corrects itself and proper operation is restored, leaving icicles in the freezer as the water refreezes and fresh food damaged by ice crystals. While I turn the unit off and on, unplug/replug, fiddle with the temp settings, I do not know that any of that makes any difference. The condenser coils are clean as is the rest of the equipment underneath. So far, I have caught the problems each time to avoid any serious loss of food, but I would like to understand why this is occurring and what needs fixing/replacing. Thanks.

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  • GE Master
  • 12,962 Answers

Scenario:

When the defrost timer on your self defrosting unit closes, it shuts down the operation of the compressor and the evaporator fan in freezer compartment while the defrost heating element under the evaporator gets turned on to defrost the ice buildup in freezer. A defrost thermostat attached to the evaporator coil will turn off the defrost heating element if it gets too warm. Then when the defrost timer opens, the compressor and evaporator fan get turned back on for normal cooling cycles via the thermostat.. The defrost cycle lasts about a half an hour and repeats itself every 8 to 10 hours.

By the very nature of its operation you can see that in a self defrosting refrigerator, freezer temps are subject to a rather large fluctuation every time the self defroster goes on. Ergo, frozen food in such a unit will not keep for as long as in a commercial refrigerator or chest type freezer where such a circuit does not exist, temps are constantly low, and food lasts longer. And of couse, when the freezer temps go up as a result of the heater operation it follows that refrigerator temps will also go up since cold freezer air is no longer being funnel to fridge compartment. But since the refrig temps were never as low as those of the freezer, the temp variation during the defrost cycle will be considerably smaller.

If the self defrost mechanism is not working in accordance with the description above then maybe something is wrong with the control board if you have one on your unit.

Posted on Nov 28, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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HVACRH20
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SOURCE: Problem with fresh food side of my refrigerator freezer

The bulbs dim glow is a worry, sounds like not enough voltage is getting there. If you are comfortable with a multimeter, check what the voltage is at the bulb socket. If you have a low voltage issue due to say the transformer not working properly then the fan will also have low voltage (or no voltage). No power, no fan, no cooling. I'd suspect there are voltage issues with that transformer, especially since it's a 240 VAC model. A transformer typically steps down the 240 volts to 120 volts for light bulbs and maybe even the fans (or the whole refer). The repair man may be correct in that the transformer is built in to a circuit board but it COULD be a stand alone transformer.

Posted on Nov 10, 2006

the dr
  • 447 Answers

SOURCE: Refrigerator Freezing

Your refrig has a mechanical damper (the a b or c knob) it may be broken (uncommon ) \ is the freezer fan running even if the cold control is cycled?? Other than that it must be a faulty cold control These are very reliable refrigs and your problem is interesting. Please rate my solution

Posted on Oct 03, 2007

SOURCE: MZD 2766GE refrigerator: freezer side is cold but refrigerator side gradually warms after a week and then freezer side warms.

fan won't start by itself.

Posted on Aug 10, 2008

VtToolMan
  • 704 Answers

SOURCE: Refrigator not cooling properly, freezer works fine

I'll assume you don't have much food/items in the freezer section. Because you have the fridge set on the max cooling setting and the freezer set higher than the mid setting, it could be that you have frozen the cold air passage from the freezer to the fridge.

If you can, 1) remove all contents that would spoil; 2) turn off the fridge 3) open both doors and allow the fridge to manually thaw out completely (this will speed up the opening of the cold air exchange passage between the freezer and fridge, which is likely blocked and frozen solid. Have plenty of towels handy to soak up the water from the defrosting process,

After a FULL day of being left off and doors open to thaw out, check for any further thawing and dripping water inside, if present wait another 8 hours (you really want to get it thawed out the first time!) When that's done, reset BOTH temperature controls to the factory mid-point setting (5?) as marked on your control knobs.

The key to having a refridgerator run properly is to allow for it to run at the factory settings for at least 24 hours BEFORE you adjust the controls higher and/or lower for each section. Adjust it up or down in ONLY 1 setting increments so as to not cause ice build-up and freezing of the internal air exchange passages.

Also, as you've relegated this fridge as a garage "beer & backup" unit, make sure to keep the freezer as full as possible to make it run as efficiently as possible. You can freeze jugs of water and pack it with cheap thrift store bread to help it run correctly. An empty freezer has to work harder to keep just air at freezing temps. As such, it will pass much colder air into the fridge, and cause these types of freeze ups. By the way, turning up the temp controls only makes it worse and just results in a total "freeze up" inside the cabinet panels that you can't easily see or get at to rectify, hence the reason to shut it off and let it fully defrost.

When you're done, you should have your fridge back in action working like it should, but remember, don't rush temperature adjustments, even thou we all want those frosty beverages, it'll take a couple of days to achieve the desired "chill" you're likely used to getting when it was your primary fridge.

Hope this helps and Best Regards! Semper Fi!

Posted on Aug 03, 2009

heatman101
  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: 48" ge monogram refrigerator not staying cold

Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out thelast two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

sfjfg

Posted on Sep 29, 2010

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1 Answer

Freezer not working when its cold in the garage.


Where do you keep the fridge? If you keep it outside then most likely the condensor coils in the freezer may be freezing over and the only way to fix that is to keep it above 40 degrees outside the fridge.

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Remember that the control is intended to keep the interior temperature of the refrigerator section at approximately 36F-40F for normal operation. If the garage temperature falls below this point the Refrigerator won't run again until Spring, or whenever the garage temperatures rise above the normal range for a long enough period of time. If you have sustained periods where you garage is below 40F it's likely you will Freeze everything in the refrigerator and break glass containers while The Freezer will be TOO warm.

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My 650F is forming ice, first behind the vegetable drawer where the condensate drain line drops down into the freezer section , which then moved to the freezer compartment when we raised the temperatu


Not sure exactly what the situation is I'm going to give you a detailed overview on how the system works that way you'll be able to isolate the problem. Your machine is a single compressor unit, meaning that even though there are two seperate sides, the freezer and the refridgerator, they do not operate independantly. The sealed system, which is what cools the machine, has two parts, a high side and a low side. The high side is located under the machine and consist of a condensor, for which freon is pressurized back into a liquid and passed throug the compresoor to be released as a gas into the evaperator, the low side. This is where the freon is at a cold state. Ok, now that you have the bare basics of a sealed system, we move forward. The Evaporator is located in the freezer side, behind the freezer wall. As freon goes through the evaporator, a fan, called the evaporator fan, is located above it and circulates air throughout the freezer compartment. Also, an airway connects the freezer to the refridgerator, usually top right of freezer, or top left refridgerator on side by sides and through the freezer floor on top mount models. This means the freezer cools the refridgerator side. ****First check point**** Is the fan running in the freezer? This would cause the freezer not to cool as well but also a rise in the refrigeration side would be noticed. As freon goes throught the evaporator, which is made of aluminum, the temperature levels are well below the freezing point, so frost and ice will form on the coils. Over time, this kind of build up would form a blockage, not letting air be drawn from the bottom of the coils by the fan to circulate the cold air. To prevent this from happening the a defrost heater is installed to thaw the ice away and comes on every 6-8 hours. This is initiated by the defrost timer, or in some machines an adaptive defrost control. The heater will be located at the bottom of the evaporator because hot air rises, getting maximum effect. A third part to the defrost system, the first two being the timer and heater, is a bi-metal,or terminating thermost. Its called this because when the thermostat is cold, the metal inside it constricts making a pathway for electricity to flow through to the defrost heaters so it can get hot, and as the heat rises and the ice melts away, the terminating thermostat will warm up, and the metal will expand causing the path of electricity to be broken, turing the heaters off. This is to prevent any high temperature situation from happening, like melting plastic or even a fire. If any of these parts fail, the machine will nit defrost. ***Checkpoint two***** Do you see any ice build up on the freezer wall. This ice will be completely across the back wall. Most signs of defrost problems are noticed first by a rise in temperature on the refrigerator side first. The above can be assessed with a quick look and listen. If no frost is present and the fan is running you can rule out the above. ****Please not that ice build up on just a small section, for example, upper left or right corner only is not a defrost situation but a sealed system issue, caused from low freon or a restriction in the lines and a EPA certified technician should be called.****** The last thing you should check you'll need to pull the machine away from the wall and remove the lower panel to gain access to the compressor area. What you are checking here is to see if the condensor fan motor is running and that the coils are somewhat clean enough for air to flow across them. The fan draws air from across the compressor and through the coils helping to keep the compressor temperature down and also to evaporate the water that is drain when the machine goes into defrost. Rule of thumb is if the compressor is on the fan should be. If the fan isn't runnning the heat from the compressor will be transferred to the machine and notice first on the freezer more so than the refrigerator. ****checkpoint three**** IS the condensor fan running? Are the coils clean, and can you feel the air from the fan with your hand placed on the opposite side of the coils?
The refrigerator side is usually where your defrost timer, discussed earlier is located. Also on this side is where your temperature control, or controls , are located, These controls are what are called thermostats, and have a direct line to the compressor. This means when the temperature has reached the desired setting the thermostat will kill power to the compressor in the same manner the terminating thermostat does with the defrost heater. Some models have a temperature control thermostat for the freezer and the refrigeratot, but some only for the refrigerator. The most noticeable sign of a thermostat being bad is the food in the refrigerator side will freeze, usually on any setting or the machine won't come on at all, including the fans. Problems are usually noticed on the refrigeratot side first. The last thing to discuss is The freezer and the refrigerator both are rising in temperature, but the fans are running, etc. Normally in cases like this a humming sound followed by click is heard or sometimes just the click. The humming sound is the compressor trying to start but failing and the click is the relay breaking contact. On newer machines, especially ones that fall under the whirlpool umbrella, the compressor relay, also called the start device has failed and needs to be replaced, but also the compressor itself could be bad. Well, thats the basics. I know it's long winded but I wanted to put something that you could print out and use as reference. Good luck.

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1 Answer

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If the temperature in the garage is even in the 40 to 50 degree range, the loss of cold in the fridge may not happen often enough to keep the compressor coming on often enough to keep some freezer items frozen solid - such as ice cream. Remember, water freezes at 32 degrees F, other products may require lower temperatures to remain frozen, and could thaw at 28 or other temperature.

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1 Answer

Side by side GE TFT28PFBBWW freezer ok, refrigerator side cools interminently, most of the times does not cool at all


The problem is defrost.

Its defrost problem, the freezer should cool, then freeze, then defrost cycle should start. In your case freezer is cooling, then freezing, but its not defrosting. That's why fridge section is not cooling.-------

Click this link below and follow the troubleshooting:----

http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/06/refrigerator-is-not-cooling-properly.html

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This will help.Thanks.Helpmech/.

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I can smell items in my freezer when I open the door of the fridg


Good day,
All cooling in a refrigerator, be it the freezer section, or the fresh food section is performed by the freezer.
The freezer takes care of itself, but also by the function of the fan motor in the freezer, blows a limited amount of the freezer air into the fresh food compartment to cool it to the nominal 37 degrees.

The odor in the freezer is disguised by the extremely cold air, and is not apparent. But that odor when raised to 35 or 40 degrees will become noticeable.
As well, the freezer compartment rises to 30 degrees plus when going thru it's automatic defrost cycle, which occures for approx. 30 minutes once or twice a day, adding to the problem.
Sealing the packages is probably the only real answer.

Thank you for using FixYa.

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My suggestion is to find a different repair person who is qualified.

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