Question about GE Refrigerators
When the defrost timer on your self defrosting unit closes, it shuts down the operation of the compressor and the evaporator fan in freezer compartment while the defrost heating element under the evaporator gets turned on to defrost the ice buildup in freezer. A defrost thermostat attached to the evaporator coil will turn off the defrost heating element if it gets too warm. Then when the defrost timer opens, the compressor and evaporator fan get turned back on for normal cooling cycles via the thermostat.. The defrost cycle lasts about a half an hour and repeats itself every 8 to 10 hours.
By the very nature of its operation you can see that in a self defrosting refrigerator, freezer temps are subject to a rather large fluctuation every time the self defroster goes on. Ergo, frozen food in such a unit will not keep for as long as in a commercial refrigerator or chest type freezer where such a circuit does not exist, temps are constantly low, and food lasts longer. And of couse, when the freezer temps go up as a result of the heater operation it follows that refrigerator temps will also go up since cold freezer air is no longer being funnel to fridge compartment. But since the refrig temps were never as low as those of the freezer, the temp variation during the defrost cycle will be considerably smaller.
If the self defrost mechanism is not working in accordance with the description above then maybe something is wrong with the control board if you have one on your unit.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The bulbs dim glow is a worry, sounds like not enough voltage is getting there. If you are comfortable with a multimeter, check what the voltage is at the bulb socket. If you have a low voltage issue due to say the transformer not working properly then the fan will also have low voltage (or no voltage). No power, no fan, no cooling. I'd suspect there are voltage issues with that transformer, especially since it's a 240 VAC model. A transformer typically steps down the 240 volts to 120 volts for light bulbs and maybe even the fans (or the whole refer). The repair man may be correct in that the transformer is built in to a circuit board but it COULD be a stand alone transformer.
Posted on Nov 10, 2006
SOURCE: Refrigerator Freezing
Your refrig has a mechanical damper (the a b or c knob) it may be broken (uncommon ) \ is the freezer fan running even if the cold control is cycled?? Other than that it must be a faulty cold control These are very reliable refrigs and your problem is interesting. Please rate my solution
Posted on Oct 03, 2007
I'll assume you don't have much food/items in the freezer section. Because you have the fridge set on the max cooling setting and the freezer set higher than the mid setting, it could be that you have frozen the cold air passage from the freezer to the fridge.
If you can, 1) remove all contents that would spoil; 2) turn off the fridge 3) open both doors and allow the fridge to manually thaw out completely (this will speed up the opening of the cold air exchange passage between the freezer and fridge, which is likely blocked and frozen solid. Have plenty of towels handy to soak up the water from the defrosting process,
After a FULL day of being left off and doors open to thaw out, check for any further thawing and dripping water inside, if present wait another 8 hours (you really want to get it thawed out the first time!) When that's done, reset BOTH temperature controls to the factory mid-point setting (5?) as marked on your control knobs.
The key to having a refridgerator run properly is to allow for it to run at the factory settings for at least 24 hours BEFORE you adjust the controls higher and/or lower for each section. Adjust it up or down in ONLY 1 setting increments so as to not cause ice build-up and freezing of the internal air exchange passages.
Also, as you've relegated this fridge as a garage "beer & backup" unit, make sure to keep the freezer as full as possible to make it run as efficiently as possible. You can freeze jugs of water and pack it with cheap thrift store bread to help it run correctly. An empty freezer has to work harder to keep just air at freezing temps. As such, it will pass much colder air into the fridge, and cause these types of freeze ups. By the way, turning up the temp controls only makes it worse and just results in a total "freeze up" inside the cabinet panels that you can't easily see or get at to rectify, hence the reason to shut it off and let it fully defrost.
When you're done, you should have your fridge back in action working like it should, but remember, don't rush temperature adjustments, even thou we all want those frosty beverages, it'll take a couple of days to achieve the desired "chill" you're likely used to getting when it was your primary fridge.
Hope this helps and Best Regards! Semper Fi!
Posted on Aug 03, 2009
Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out thelast two tips.
If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...
Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...
Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair
Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor
Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold
Posted on Sep 29, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
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Its defrost problem, the freezer should cool,
then freeze, then defrost cycle should start. In your case freezer is cooling,
then freezing, but its not defrosting. That's why fridge section is not
Click this link below and follow the
This will help.Thanks.Helpmech/.
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