Question about Dryers
My daughter has a Whirlpool dryer, model LEQ9858PW0. When turned on, heater comes on, but the tub doesn't turn and blower doesn't seem to be working. My first guess is the timer switch, but that guess leaves out the possibility of in-line fuses, and I haven't had it apart far enough to track anything visually yet. I'm hoping someone can give me some quick pointers as I don't have a lot of time for chasing it down old-school. Ideas?
1Check door switch, has to be closed to turn on motor.
2Motor is only 115V in USA so 1 breaker may be out and handles not thrown Reset breakers,
3 Switch on motor its self is only for heaters and you say it allows the heaters to come on and operate and still no motor?
Then here is your problem the motor switch is out. If the motor is not running then even the heaters should not operate. If they are and the motor is not running the motor centrifugal switch is stuck in the "RUN MODE" OR
If I have it wrong and the motor is actually running but nothing is turning the belt or idler is broken on the dryer drum and the motor is doing what it is suppose to.
Posted on May 08, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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Feb 08, 2011 | Dryers
Thank you for contacting Fixya.com.
1) A burned out heating element. Remove tall box on right, element slides out from the bottom together with the "carrier". Look for broken coil, or check 2 terminals at bottom with ohm meter.
2) Burned wires at connectors. Check for obviously overheated wire terminals at all sensors (thermostats and thermal fuses in back), heater box, main terminals where power cord hooks up, etc.
3) An open thermal fuse. This is a small "thermostat" with 2 wires at the middle/top of the heater "box" (a tall narrow box on right in the back of the machine), or a plastic type on the duct close to the blower, depending on the model. You will need to remove the back cover of the machine to see these. Check with an ohm meter after disconnecting one of the leads, or jumper the 2 wires together to see if heater works (don't use this way though, fire hazard... replace the device) If this proves to be the cause of the problem, it would be wise to check all ducts and blower for excessive lint build-up. This will reduce air flow, causing overheating and blown thermal fuses.
4) Only getting 110 volts: This is often overlooked, but if for some reason one of the poles feeding the 220 power from the house wiring is open but the other is OK (for example, houses with fuses where only one fuse is blown, or a bad circuit breaker with one pole open). The motor and timer run on 110. If the side of the 220 line that feeds the motor is OK but the other one is open the motor will run but the heater, which 220 needs will not heat. Check for 220 volts between the 2 outer terminals where power cord connects or between the 2 "hot" terminals of the 220 outlet the dryer is plugged into.
5) Bad thermostats. There are usually 2 or more. A high limit on heater box, just above terminals on the bottom. 1 or 2 will be on the duct next to the blower. Check these with an ohm meter (or continuity checker). Some have 4 terminals; the extra 2 small terminals are small heaters inside the thermostats which alter its temperature characteristics. These will usually read around 4000 ohms or so. Check the 2 main largest terminals for continuity.
6) Bad centrifugal switch in motor. This is what actually turns the heater on, for safety reasons, so the heater cannot come on unless the fan is spinning. Otherwise without air flow past it, the heater would burn out.
There are 2 large gauge (usually red or yellow) wires going to the connector on the motor, these go to the contacts inside the motor that turn the heater on.
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