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Heat comes on, but no blower or tub motor.

My daughter has a Whirlpool dryer, model LEQ9858PW0. When turned on, heater comes on, but the tub doesn't turn and blower doesn't seem to be working. My first guess is the timer switch, but that guess leaves out the possibility of in-line fuses, and I haven't had it apart far enough to track anything visually yet. I'm hoping someone can give me some quick pointers as I don't have a lot of time for chasing it down old-school. Ideas?

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1Check door switch, has to be closed to turn on motor.
2Motor is only 115V in USA so 1 breaker may be out and handles not thrown Reset breakers,
3 Switch on motor its self is only for heaters and you say it allows the heaters to come on and operate and still no motor?
Then here is your problem the motor switch is out. If the motor is not running then even the heaters should not operate. If they are and the motor is not running the motor centrifugal switch is stuck in the "RUN MODE" OR
If I have it wrong and the motor is actually running but nothing is turning the belt or idler is broken on the dryer drum and the motor is doing what it is suppose to.

Posted on May 08, 2009

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2 Answers

The heat element will heat up without turning on the machine, it will not turn or blow air? is it the belt?


if the tub will not turn when you turn it on and the heater is working then yes i would suspect you have a broken belt.... if the unit is heating on its own i would suspect you have a stuck control and needs to be replaced.... good luck to you....

Feb 08, 2011 | Dryers

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My whirlpool duet dryer will not put out heat. The tub turns. The lint is cleaned out after each use.


Hi,


Thank you for contacting Fixya.com.



1) A burned out heating element. Remove tall box on right, element slides out from the bottom together with the "carrier". Look for broken coil, or check 2 terminals at bottom with ohm meter.


2) Burned wires at connectors. Check for obviously overheated wire terminals at all sensors (thermostats and thermal fuses in back), heater box, main terminals where power cord hooks up, etc.

3) An open thermal fuse. This is a small "thermostat" with 2 wires at the middle/top of the heater "box" (a tall narrow box on right in the back of the machine), or a plastic type on the duct close to the blower, depending on the model. You will need to remove the back cover of the machine to see these. Check with an ohm meter after disconnecting one of the leads, or jumper the 2 wires together to see if heater works (don't use this way though, fire hazard... replace the device) If this proves to be the cause of the problem, it would be wise to check all ducts and blower for excessive lint build-up. This will reduce air flow, causing overheating and blown thermal fuses.


4) Only getting 110 volts: This is often overlooked, but if for some reason one of the poles feeding the 220 power from the house wiring is open but the other is OK (for example, houses with fuses where only one fuse is blown, or a bad circuit breaker with one pole open). The motor and timer run on 110. If the side of the 220 line that feeds the motor is OK but the other one is open the motor will run but the heater, which 220 needs will not heat. Check for 220 volts between the 2 outer terminals where power cord connects or between the 2 "hot" terminals of the 220 outlet the dryer is plugged into.


5) Bad thermostats. There are usually 2 or more. A high limit on heater box, just above terminals on the bottom. 1 or 2 will be on the duct next to the blower. Check these with an ohm meter (or continuity checker). Some have 4 terminals; the extra 2 small terminals are small heaters inside the thermostats which alter its temperature characteristics. These will usually read around 4000 ohms or so. Check the 2 main largest terminals for continuity.

6) Bad centrifugal switch in motor. This is what actually turns the heater on, for safety reasons, so the heater cannot come on unless the fan is spinning. Otherwise without air flow past it, the heater would burn out.

There are 2 large gauge (usually red or yellow) wires going to the connector on the motor, these go to the contacts inside the motor that turn the heater on.



Also check the bellow link related to your issue:-

http://www.partselect.com/dryer+dryer-wont-heat+repair.htm


Please get back to us if you have any further query.


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if the timer is on auto it won't advance if there is no heat,you'll need a meter to read out parts in dryer,is it gas or electric?try first by checking the thermal fuse on the blower wheel housing,if that's good check the heater if it's electric,if it's gas check the ignitor,sensor gas coilssend model number and if it's gas or electric next time

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Whirlpool LEQ9858PW0 Buzzes But Won't Start.


sounds as if wither you have a bad motor assy, or something haas fallen down into the "blower assy" preventing the motor form spinning.. in the back wher eyou tested your fuse, just to the left of that you see a large tubular housing (rounded on bottom", thats the cover for the blower , i believe its 3-4 screw holding it on, nad also the 2 screws visable when you remove the filter assy, the housing will pull off( you may need to wiggle it abit) and hopefully youll find a sock or something jammed in the blower assy

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Could be problem with timer contact for the heaters.

Aug 04, 2008 | Whirlpool LEQ9858P Electric Dryer

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Whirlpool dryer GEC9858HQ0


There are 2 thermal fuses located on side of heater box, part # 279769. These come as a kit. One of the fuses if blown the unit will not heat at all, the other is a cycling t-stat. The other thing to check would be your venting in the wall. If its not clear in the wall, it will take extra time to dry clothing.

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