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HI this is just a test the icemaker runs when you first turn it on, its not suppose to fill up the tray, it will fill it when the icemaker reaches the correct temperature, if its not cold enough in the freezer it wont kick on, if its been sitting for several hours and still wont fill or make ice, you need a new icemaker. The new icemaker part # is WR30X10093
its the compresor packed up,,,if this compresor is not pumping freezer gas around the pipe work the freezer wont work sorry but a new compresor is not a cheep thing to have fitted as it will need a re-gas as well
you can check the fill tube in the freezer make sure it is not blocked with frozen water. if you can disconnec the water supply line from the fill tube try and reset the ice maker to advance it to a new cycle and if water come out of the supply line the you knwo there is a blockage if no water comes out the the ice maker may be bad or the fill valve is bad. last thing you may need to call a service tech out to find the problem.good luck i hope that this has helped some what.i would like to knwo how thing go for you
Check the ice maker to see if there are ice cubes in the ice maker. If so, there is a problem with the ice maker heater and / or motor. You may be able to rebuild the ice maker by replacing defective parts, but it might be easier to replace it as a whole unit instead. If there is no ice present, it is likely a problem with the ice maker water lines / solenoid.
There are usually two solenoid valves and tubing systems for these types of fridges. One actuates on demand for water whenever requested, and the other operates automatically to make ice cubes until the ice cube reservoir is full.
Carefully push/pull the fridge away from the wall.
Unplug the fridge from the outlet.
Shut off the water supply to the fridge.
Remove access cover (usually the on the bottom) from the back of the fridge. Follow the tube that comes from the top of the fridge (for the ice maker) down to the bottom of the fridge.
Inspect visually for sources of the leak on tubing and related parts. Carefully check by hand for leaks in areas not readily visible - including the back sides of all the tubing, too. There may be sharp edges that can cut if not paying attention. If a leak is found where the tubing connects to other parts, you may be able to simply remove the tube and cut it back an inch or so if there is enough slack.
It may require that some special fittings and parts be obtained to reconnect and some compression type parts are designed for single use. If this is the case, gather the parts and bring them to a local hardware store for assistance obtaining replacements.
If a solenoid valve is found to be the culprit, due to a crack, etc. a trip to an appliance parts store will be required - unless able to purchase online. Part prices can vary widely , depending on the source.
Once replacement parts have been secured, reconnect after disconnecting power & water supply lines. When satisfied with the installation, reconnect power and water lines and test.
Carefully slide the fridge back into position - taking care to not crush the power or water lines.
The waterinlet valve on the back of the unit where the
water supply comes in can have a slow leak and will cause ice to buildup and
block the fill tube. Disconnect the ice maker line from the valve and watch to
see if it has a slow drip. It doesn’t take much to eventually block the fill
The valve can leak because of sediment in the water
preventing it from closing or low water pressure.
You can thaw out the fill tube and replace the inlet valves.
Either the water valve that opens when the ice maker calls for water (located in the back of the fridge at the bottom) went bad or is leaking and the fill tube to the ice maker gets clogh with frozen water and when it calls for water won't get through, in both cases you need to replace the valve.
the water that is frozen in the fill tube could have come from the old water valve that you replaced ,you got to get the ice out, the easiest way ,though not the fastest ,is to unplug fridge for 24 hrs . and leave the doors open to let it defrost, the plug back up and hopefully in 5 or 6 hrs you'll have ice
It'll cost around $65.00 to take care of this problem. The problem is the water inlet valve. The part number is 4389177 and can be picked up at your local appliance parts retailer or you can get one online maybe for a better price (just plug the part number into your favorite search engine).
Here's what's happening... The valve I mentioned is actually a "dual coil" unit. One coil supplies the cold water, the other feeds the ice maker. These "coils" are independant of each other, so one coil can fail and the other can keep on truckin', no problem. But what you have is an Ice Maker coil/valve that is weak and it's allowing water to bypass.
Basically the IM valve isn't closing shut completely. Imagine a dripping faucet... that's what it's like except you can't hear the drops, you can only see the results. Imagine drop by drop rising up that tube behind the fridge and into the IM. One drop at a time. These drops of water go into the freezer compartment through the IM fill tube. Now when these little ***** drops slide down the fill tube inside the freezer compartment they flash freeze before they reach the IM. One drop after another... drip drop drip drop. All these little droplets of water eventually form a glacier inside the fill tube.
OK, now we're at the point of glatiation. The fill tube (just behind the ice maker) has completely frozen solid. Now... when the IM "calls" for water to refill itself, the (failed) valve opens up and lets full pressure through. But where is this water/pressure going to go? The pressure builds inside the 1/4" water line until it can't handle it any more, the pressure looks for the path of least resistance. That path is the connection that you found loose. It blew out because the fill tube (into the freezer) is blocked with ice and the reason it's blocked is because the valve isn't shutting off completely.
That's alot of words to say this... it's an easy fix. Get the valve (above). Pull the fridge out. Unplug it. Turn the water off at the wall. Remove the water line going into the valve and set aside. Remove the cardboard panel. Remove the 2 screws holding the valve to the fridge. Pull the valve out. Note the electrical and tubing connections carefully. Get your new valve out and install the electrical and tubing just like the old one. Then rebuild, turn on the water and look for any leaks (use a flashlight and take a minute or two here... finding a leak now will save you alot of misery later). Replace the cardboard and plug it back in.
There ya go! Your first major appliance repair job done successfully? Priceless.