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Pressure valve located on front of above-ground-storage-tank will turn pump on-off depending on amount of water pressure inside tank.
When water is consumed inside home, the pressure valve responds to the lower pressure and closes electrical contacts... sending electricity to water well pump located deep underground.
The pump turns on and lifts water through a pipe into the above ground storage tank.
When the tank is full of water, the pressure valve senses the higher pressure and turns off electricity going to pump
Pump shuts off.
There is a one-way check valve on the water line going down to pump, and this keeps water from flowing back down into well.
The above ground tank maintains water pressure for the house.
When pressure is reduced by taking a shower, the pressure valve turns pump on again, and cycle repeats.
You have a waterlogged pressure tank. To fix this problem, follow these steps:
1. Determine your cut in pressure by looking at the pressure gauge and seeing when the pump turns on.
2. Shut off the electric to the pump and shut off the main water to the house.
3. Drain the water from the pressure tank completely. You can do this by opening the drain at the bottom the the pressure tank.
4. With a air compressor and tire gauge (don't use pressure gauge on the pump) put enough pressure in the tank so that it is two psi less than the cut in pressure. So if your pump turns on at 30 psi, put 28 psi in the tank.
5. Turn the power back on to the pump and let it run till it shuts off.
6. Turn the water back on to the house.
7. This should fix the problem. If it does not, the bladder in the pressure tank is bad and the whole tank needs to be replaced.
This is a general fix without knowing your make and model of pump or pressure tank. This is a universal way of fixing this problem.
Ok I see your re-post. If I understand correctly, no water is coming out of any faucet.
No cold water and no hot water.
1) First of all, cold water side of water system is totally unaffected by recirculation pump or timer on recirculation pump. Faucets are connected directly to cold water line that enters house from outside, and that line does not come in contact with recirculation pump. 2) If you have no cold water, check with neighbors to see if they have water. 3) Next, go outside and check ALL outdoor spigots and see if water comes out. 4) Is it possible that you have a frozen water pipe?
Do some checking and then repost another question. I will be here until you get it fixed.
In order for the pump to **** up water, it must discharge air. Try this. Install a hose bibb (faucet) in the discharge line over top of the pump. Fill the pump housing with water, turn on the pump and open the hose bibb/faucet until full water flow is established. Almost all air should be out of the pump and suction line at this time. Now when you close the hose bibb/faucet, the pump will have plenty of pressure to fill the long discharge line.
Suction line should be 2-1/2 inch if that is the pump suction size.
What size is your discharge line?
There should be a check valve/foot valve on the end of the line in the creek to keep water in the pump once it is primed.
Make sure the water is turned off to system. Open the faucet to system to drain any water and keep the faucet turned on to keep pressure off filter housings. 1.Use the wrench to take housings off. 2. If they still won't budge take a small 2x4 block of wood and hammer, set the block of wood on the RIB for the housing and tap with hammer. 3. Change the o-rings in both housings, lubricate with silicone lube and lubricate the threads on housings with silicone also. 3. Rinse housings with small amount of bleach and clean thoroughly. 4. Replace filters and housings. 5. IMPORTANT: Only tighten housings by hand. NEVER tighten housings with wrench. RJ
First and foremost, check if your water pressure is between 20 to 40 psi. If it is, there is no reason why you could not have water in your faucet. Check your faucet and your pipelines for closed valve or a clogged pipeline. However, even if the water pump pressure is only 10 psi, it should reach your faucet. 10 psi pressure is equivalent to 23.1 feet vertical height. So, please check it up and get back to us by e-mail.
sounds like you either have a leak or the water is returning into the cistern thus filling the lines with air and you getting a blast of air and water. I don't know much about them but logic tells me there should be some type of valve that keeps the water from back flowing into the cistern.
1 Beep/E10--Error: Water doesn't enter Cause: Water supply problem, Check kinks and faucets 1 Beep/E10--Error: Water leaks Cause: Water connections loose,household drain clog,oversudsing. Correct problems. 1 Beep/E10--Error: Dispenser drawer is open Cause: Washer will not operate if drawer is open. 2 Beeps/E20--Error: Water dosen't drain. Cause: Drain is kinked or household clog. Correct. 3 Beeps/E30--Error: Drum overfilled. Cause: Inlet valve,pressure switch or control board failure.Select drain/spin to remove water. Restart. 4 Beeps/E40--Error: Door is open. Cause: Washer will not operate if door is open. Close door. 5 Beeps/E50--Error: Motor is overheated. Cause: Wait 30 minutes to cool down. Restart. 7 Beeps/E70--Error: Cold water doesn't enter. Cause: Hoses crossed,faucet problem. 15 Beeps/EF0--Error: Oversudsing. Cause: Too much detergent,or improper detergent for machine. 15 Beeps/EF0--Error: Hot water doesn't enter. Cause: Hoses crossed,faucet problem.
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This error code indicates a water supply problem. Are both the hot and cold water faucets turned on?
Turn on the water. Check the household faucets to see if the hot and cold water faucets are turned on. Completely open both faucets for proper fill. NOTE: Both hot and cold water must be connected to the washer and turned on; the washer will not properly operate with only one incoming source of water. Are the water inlet hoses kinked?
Straighten the water inlet hoses. Are the water inlet valve screens on the washer clogged?
Ensure that the water pump is turned off then locate the water pump in your RV. Typical locations are under the dinette, under the bed, or in a cabinet near the sink. If you can't find it, turn on a faucet and locate the noise coming from the pump (this should be really easy!). A typical water pump will be secured by 4 screws. Remove these 4 screws and slip a rubber mouse pad under the pump. Re-secure the pump being careful to not over tighten the screws. Using a mouse pad will help absorb the vibrations from the pump to the floor. Next, we will locate the rattling water pipes. Turn on the pump. Have a friend open and close any faucet while you try and locate where the clanging noise is coming from. Typical areas are where the cold water pipe passes through or runs along a cabinet wall. In this case, the cabinet acts like a sounding board and creates a lot of noise. Take some 1/2" foam pipe insulation and wrap the pipe where it rattles against the cabinet or flooring. It should slip right over and not require any securing to the pipe. But a little duct tape on each end of the insulation wouldn't hurt. Repeat this step until you have insulated all rattling pipes. Sometimes the water pump can rapid cycle on and off (cycling ON/OFF in less than 2 seconds) during low flow conditions. This can cause pulsations in the water system and create noise. To determine if adjustment is necessary, turn a faucet ON to lower than average flow of water. The pump should cycle, but its "OFF time" must be 2 seconds or longer. If the cycling is correct, no adjustment is necessary. If the pump is cycling rapidly, increase the setting by turning the adjustment screw (see image) clockwise (1 turn MAX.) until the pump operates for 1 sec. with at least 2 sec. "OFF time".