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Maytag Quiet Series 100 washing machine shakes when spin drying

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  • Tim Purcell
    Tim Purcell Nov 27, 2013

    Further info...my wife told me it seems to happen only when set at

  • Tim Purcell
    Tim Purcell Nov 27, 2013

    Further info...my wife told me it seems to happen only when set at "mini" load. I need to get more info. re. when it happens.

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5 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

aborcass
  • 2651 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag Neptune Series MAH5500BW loud noise during spin cycle.

very loud in spin cycle can mean a bad rear bearing, not something a homeowner would want to try to replace, parts would exceed 6-7 hundered dollars. you may have some extended part warr through the manufacture. still probly gonna be a 5 hundred when the labor is added in

Posted on Dec 06, 2008

kel1guy2002
  • 3740 Answers

SOURCE: My Maytag Bravos quiet series

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.
My response is very long and will be in 2 parts this is PART 1

Here is what the service manual says about Ld:

"Ld" (Washer is taking too long to drain

water from the wash tub)

Check the following:

Is the drain hose kinked or clogged?

Is the drain hose installed properly? See

"Connect the Drain Hose," page 2-5. Press
PAUSE/CANCEL to clear display
Also:

Is the drain hose clogged, or the end of

the drain hose more than 96? (244 cm)

above the floor?
See "Drain System," page 2-3.
6. To remove the drain pump: (there are 2 pumps... the drain pump is on the left)

a) Loosen the clamps and pull the inlet

and outlet drain hoses off the pump.

Note that there is a tab on the outlet

connector that fits into a slot in the

hose.

b) Remove the three 5/16? hex-head

screws from the drain pump and remove
the pump from the tub.
Check the pump inlet and the tub outlet for obstructions.
Pump electrical winding resistance test:

-Disconnect the wire connector from the

drain pump terminals.

- Set the ohmmeter to the R x 1 scale.

- Touch the ohmmeter test leads to each

of the drain pump terminals. The meter
should indicate between 10.5 and 14 ?.

----Due to the design of the machine the 2 wires going to the drain pump have be notorous for backing out of the plastic connector. Check the connector of the pump for loose terminal connections. --

From the Ld troubleshooting steps / procedure:

Long Drain

Ld flashes when the water level does not change after the drain pump is on.

• Is the drain hose or the drain pump clogged?

• Is the drain hose height greater than 96? ?

• Is the pressure hose connection from the tub to the machine/motor control pinched or plugged?
• Is the pump running? If not, see TEST #7.

TEST 7

TEST #7 Drain/Recirculation

Perform the following checks if washer fails to drain or recirculate.

1. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test

Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps

test.

2. Remove the console to access the machine/

motor control assembly. See Accessing

& Removing the Electronic Assemblies.

3. Visually check that the P4 connector is

inserted all the way into the machine/motor

control.

If visual check passes, go to step 4.

If visual check fails, reconnect P4 and

repeat step 1.

4. Remove connector P4 from the machine/ motor control and check resistance values of pump motor windings. Resistance values should match those shown in wiring diagram, page 7-1.

If resistance values are good, go to step 7.

If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, a problem

exists in the motor winding or in the connection between the machine/motor

control and the motor. Go to step 5.

5. Tilt machine forward to access the bottom

of the machine and the pumps. See
Figure 1, page 6-13.
6. Check the resistance at the pump motor. Remove the connector at the motor and

take measurements across pump terminals. Measurements should be as shown in the wiring diagram.

If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, replace the

pump motor.

If the resistance at the pump motor is correct, there is an open circuit in the wiring between the motor and the machine/

motor control. Repair or replace the lower wiring harness.

If the pump motor windings and machine/ motor control check OK, repair or replace the pump. Be sure to check

the pump and tub sump for foreign objects before replacing pump.

7. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps test.

8. If the Manual: Pumps test failed, then the machine/motor control has failed:

Unplug the washer or disconnect power.Replace the machine/motor control assembly.
Perform the Manual: Pump test.

Posted on Nov 21, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: maytag bravo quiet series 300: Stopped at spin:

We have a Maytag Bravo Quiet Series 300 washing machine, the door latch is broken. I have the replacement part ( the locking mechanism) but I need can not figure out how to get the top of the washer to flip up to give me access to top front of the machine to remove the old part and replace it with the new.

How do I flip back the top (not the door) of this machine?

John

Posted on Jan 03, 2011

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: my maytag bravos quiet series 300 washing machine

i lost the manual , what does "5d" mean when it is

Posted on Jul 04, 2011

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Because it will work when you manually set the timer to spin, I would say that the timer has gone bad and that it is not getting you to the spin cycle automatically as it should...

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Here is a tip that will help you with the online buying...

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We have a Maytag Bravo Quiet Series 300 washing machine, the door latch is broken. I have the replacement part ( the locking mechanism) but I need can not figure out how to get the top of the washer to flip up to give me access to top front of the machine to remove the old part and replace it with the new.

How do I flip back the top (not the door) of this machine?

John

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Maytag Neptune Series MAH5500BW loud noise during spin cycle.


very loud in spin cycle can mean a bad rear bearing, not something a homeowner would want to try to replace, parts would exceed 6-7 hundered dollars. you may have some extended part warr through the manufacture. still probly gonna be a 5 hundred when the labor is added in

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