Question about George Foreman Griddle 185" GFG185

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Replacement parts looking for the side legs that the element plugs throuh

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Go to this website: http://www.fixitclubparts.com/

God bless you

Posted on Nov 28, 2013

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Gew9200LW duet dryer


If this is a 220 VAC dryer use a voltmeter at the wall plug. Chcking from common, usually the leg with the angled blade, to each of the hot legs, each with the straight blade. You need to have 110 VAC in both of these. If there is only 110 at one of the legs the motor will run but the element will not heat. If you find only one leg has 110 VAC try a new circuit breaker in the breaker box. If the breaker is bad it will appear to reset, but still not send current. If you have 110 on both legs check in the dryer for a burned off wire at the timer or element.

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My vw golf 4 2.0l won't rave but idles roughly


check spark plugs and distributor. look for bad wear and missing parts. It must be a faulty spark plug which is not igniting fuel in one cylinder. If you decide to replace the plugs its best to change all of them.

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I AM GETTING ELECTRICITY TO THE 220 PLUG AND THROUGH THE 220 PLUG WIRE TO THE STOVE JUNCTION BOX. THE STOVE TOP AND OVEN HEATING ELEMENTS ARE NOT HEATING UP BUT THE INDICATOR LIGHTS FOR BOTH ELEMENTS SHOW...


The indicator lights operate on 120 volts whereas the elements operate on 220 volts.
Using an electrical test meter go between the two hot legs and see if you are getting 220 volts. If not you have an open or non completed circuit.
Do not test from one leg to ground as you will probably read 120 volts for each leg. By reading across both legs you should get 220 volts.

May 03, 2011 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

Whirlpool E1F50RD045V 50 gal elec. , top element is on bottom element is not getting 208 v, removed both legs from bottom stat has120v on each side not getting 208 from top , is their a relay not closing...


Sounds like you might have a thermostat problem, or burned out lower element
Lower thermostat and both elements will test for 120V at all times because upper thermostat only cuts off one leg of 240V circuit, and other leg is hot all the time.

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-water-heater-thermostat-works.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-water-heater-thermostats.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

Yes, the elements alternate being turned ON.
This is called non-simultaneous operation.
Look at label on side of tank: Each element has rating of 4500Watts, but tank rating is also 4500Watts > that shows that both elements are not ON at same time.
This is standard wiring for water heaters.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html

Water heaters can we wired differently, for example converted to simultaneous operation where upper thermostat and lower thermostat are no longer wired together, so upper and lower parts of tank are independent.
Lower thermostat is replaced with ECO protected thermostat identical to upper thermostat.
Another 240V circuit breaker is added to breaker panel, and that 240V line runs directly to lower thermostat. So upper and lower thermostats are each on separate 240V line.
The advantage of simultaneous is faster recovery of hot water, but downside is probably higher electric bill. Simultaneous wiring is usually reserved for larger tanks like 80 gallons, where elements can fall behind the amount of hot water needed.
Otherwise, ordinary non-simultaneous operation is proven to be satisfactory, if your home has not experienced shortages.
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-off-peak-water-heater-thermostats.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Do-it-yourself-water-heater-timer.html

Add a comment for more free help.

Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Feb 08, 2011 | Whirlpool Water Heaters

1 Answer

GE Oven # J BP65G V1AD. Wires burned through 2" behind attachment point to element. replaced wire with 14 awg stranded high heat nickel appliance wire. In process I erased the pencil mark...


normally theres 2 wires on the right side spade lug looking in from the oven front where it plugs in and both of the bake elements have a black wire on the spades and the right side has 2 wires off that terminal,but to simplify the correct connection take a volt-meter (NOT connecting the element) and connect to the single black wire on the left spade on the element on one meter probe and connect the right side to the other wires at a time and then switch on the oven and broiler at separate times and see which wires read 240volts when that switch is energized at that time

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1 Answer

LER4634EQ2 whirlpool electric dryer. heating element,thermal cut-off, and high limit are all getting continuity, but heating element still will not heat up.


I know this might sound stupid but try this. Find your fuse box, locate the breaker that runs your dryer. Flip it off and then back on. If i'm correct, it will work. Everything on your dryer works off of one leg of the 220v. The other leg goes to the other side of the element. If you have a meter. check for 220v at the plug. Everything you listed is what makes the dryer heat other than the thermostats. Check the cycling thermostats like you did the other pieces. They look like the thermal cut off. They have two wires and they are round.

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Whirlpool RM280PXAQO power loss to one leg of bake element


remove leads from heater and carry out resistance test to see if heater is ok. you have checked the voltage so presume you have a meter.if not test voltage on both sides of heater connect directly to ground and other lead on ground of heater you should have a voltage if not you have a ground fault

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1 Answer

Solid element cooking top slow in heating up


It sounds like you have lost 1 leg of 220V power to the unit. Chances are, one of the elements shorted to ground, then blew itself open.

Find the breaker or fuse box, and reset/replace breakers/fuse. If it blows again, you'll have to locate which element is bad, or where the short is.

I can help more once I know if there was a breaker trip, or fuse was blown. I will also need to know if it is one element, or all the elements., that exhibit the same problem. I can instruct you on identifying the bad element as well, and replacement elements are available.

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I want to replace an erratic element on a really old Viking stove. The new element plugs into a new recepticle,but the latter has 2 wires, whereas the old stove has 4 wires that were connected directly...


This can't be done. The old elements were a two part element with 2 seperate coils. The heat was controlled by using one or both elements at different voltages to select the heat output. The new 2 wire element just pulses the current on and off to control heat. It is just one big element. Try to purchase a generic replacement burner that will fit the hole. Usually these come with the chrome ring and everything. They are somewhat adjustable but will not match your existing burners. GE used to make this. Another possibility is if the control to the burner is a knob that turns, Replace the switch with a new infinate heat switch. If this switch will mount properly. Just grab the two 220 volt legs from the old switch, Ignore and tape the neutral, ground, and pilot leads. Connect to the line side of the switch. Use only 2 of the old wires going to the burner and connect them to the new one.

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