Question about Ovens

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Ge true temp oven

Roaches were in the main panel of the stove so I took it off to clean and when putting back together the key pad starting beeping and read bad line. I started making sure I didnt disconnect any plugs and the first one I checked popped. It was the first one from right when looking from the front of the stove. It is on where the time shows up

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  • Alex Rodriguez
    Alex Rodriguez Nov 27, 2013

    What should I do?

  • mikadot
    mikadot Nov 27, 2013

    Did you let it dry real goood first? Roaches? I have almost never seen them in my life. Come to Canada

  • Alex Rodriguez
    Alex Rodriguez Nov 27, 2013

    Yes I left it over night. and its too cold up there for roaches.

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  • Contributor
  • 27 Answers

I think the problem stems from working on the board with the power on. MicroProcessors don't like that. If by "popped" you mean made a frying noise, you are going to have to replace the board.

Posted on Nov 27, 2013

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Posted on Oct 09, 2008

  • 111 Answers

SOURCE: GE Profile Performance Spectra Range error code F0

F0 - F1 - F7 Stuck keypad may mean relay is turned on. Determine if problem is with the Key Panel or Control by:
1. Pushing CLEAR/OFF pad.
2. Disconnecting Ribbon Cable from control and waiting at least 32 seconds to see if Code recurs

If code recurs, problem is in the control. Replace control.

If code does not recur, problem is with the Key Panel.

Posted on Jun 20, 2009

  • 3230 Answers

SOURCE: F2 and F3 error codes...Is the oven REALLY fixed now?

The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site. 
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws. 

Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement. 

The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven. 

If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock. 

You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board. 

On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced. 

If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors. 

Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
thanks
good luck

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

barkencoa
  • 3463 Answers

SOURCE: GE oven temperature is not true, and needs to be reset.

The temperature is within manufactures specifications.
By that I mean that the majority of manufactures allow a tolerance of + or - 10 % of the set temperature.
So, in your case, 10% of 350 degrees is 35 degrees, thereby showing that the actual temperature you are obtaining is well within the 10% allowance.
I hope this helps you .

Posted on Jan 03, 2010

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1 Answer

How do I fix my GE True temp oven which shows F7 on the display?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rg7Dp4LBxtA

it seems its the connections ribbons on the control panel is wrong

will give you a clue look down the replys to the video to get more info

some very carefull cleaning is needed inside the front panel rework some connections

i use deoxit 5 and a rag
spray the deoxit to a rag then wipe the connection ribbons
then dowse the plugs with the deoxite
wait a while and re plug then carefully

should cure it

i would add a blob of grease to the sockets once its all running
to avoid further corrossion

hope this helps

Dec 11, 2014 | GE Ovens

1 Answer

It displays F1 . Is this a fuse problem and where is the F1 fuse


HELLO THERE
How to test many brands of Ranges that are flashing a F1 fault code: You have either a bad ERC (clock) or a bad touch pad.
  1. Disconnect power to stove
  2. Gain access to the back of the clock (electronic range control or ERC).
  3. Unplug the touch pad ribbon connector from the ERC. This will be a flat wire approx. 1 1/2" to 2" wide.
  4. Make sure everything is clear and will not short out when power is turned back on.
  5. Turn power back on to stove.
  6. Watch for the F1 and listen for the beep.
  7. If you get the F1 and beep, replace the ERC.
  8. If after approx. 30 minutes you do NOT get the F1 and hear the beep, replace the touch pad.
    NOTE: Some models incorporate the touch pad and the clock as one part. * We have seen a few of the newer Maytag ranges with a F1 fault code and the problem was the oven temp sensor, check carefully the wires to and from the oven temp sensor!!

Feb 03, 2010 | Whirlpool 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...

1 Answer

F1 beeping


hello there:
Please read this carefully and follow the tips and this will help you find out what is exactly the problem ok
How to test many brands of Ranges that are flashing a F1 fault code: You have either a bad ERC (clock) or a bad touch pad.
  1. Disconnect power to stove
  2. Gain access to the back of the clock (electronic range control or ERC).
  3. Unplug the touch pad ribbon connector from the ERC. This will be a flat wire approx. 1 1/2" to 2" wide.
  4. Make sure everything is clear and will not short out when power is turned back on.
  5. Turn power back on to stove.
  6. Watch for the F1 and listen for the beep.
  7. If you get the F1 and beep, replace the ERC.
  8. If after approx. 30 minutes you do NOT get the F1 and hear the beep, replace the touch pad.
    NOTE: Some models incorporate the touch pad and the clock as one part. * We have seen a few of the newer Maytag ranges with a F1 fault code and the problem was the oven temp sensor, check carefully the wires to and from the oven temp sensor!!

Jan 12, 2010 | GE Profile JTP56 Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

Beeping with f7 display


HI this is a touch pad or key pad issue. In most models, the touch or key pad are integrated. In this case, you will need to replace the entire control board or EOC(clock).

Now, if the touch or key pad is separate from the main control board, and linked, via linking ribbon, i would advise to use the procedure below to isolate the problem area.


Determine if problem is with the Key Panel or Control by:
1. Pushing CLEAR/OFF pad.
2. Disconnecting Ribbon Cable from control and waiting at least 32 seconds to see if Code recurs

If code recurs, problem is in the control. Replace control.

If code does not recur, problem is with the Key Panel.

Oct 03, 2009 | GE Ovens

1 Answer

GE Profile Performance Spectra Range error code F0


F0 - F1 - F7 Stuck keypad may mean relay is turned on. Determine if problem is with the Key Panel or Control by:
1. Pushing CLEAR/OFF pad.
2. Disconnecting Ribbon Cable from control and waiting at least 32 seconds to see if Code recurs

If code recurs, problem is in the control. Replace control.

If code does not recur, problem is with the Key Panel.

Jun 20, 2009 | GE JKS05 Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

Oven will not get out of the self-cleaning mode


Ok, unplug the unit for 5 minutes to reset the main circuit board. if the error continues to plague the unit, replace the control board.

May 31, 2009 | GE Ovens

1 Answer

Oven comes on for no reason followed by the start beep


yes you can kill the power and lock out the box with a pad lock for safety. the panel is attached by screws usually on the bottom of panel. lower and seperate the control panel ribbon from the erc (electronic range control). without removing any other components leave ribbon loose and replace panel. turn power back on. if the beeping does not recur, the control panel probably has a stuck key. if it does resume the erc is faulty

May 17, 2009 | GE JKP20 Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

GE True Temp oven won't turn off.


The sensor is a part number WB23T10002 and goes for about $60. The paper inside the control area of the oven will state the normal resistance values of it. (probably about 1080 ohms at room temp, about 2650 at clean temp.) If you cut a lead to it, you would just get a F3 code, and if you cut the other and wire them together, just get a F4 code, so that wouldn't help diagnose the problem, but if you could use an ohm meter on the probe it would. BUT the oven should not come on without it being set to bake, SO I conclude that the ERC is indeed the problem (with the welded electrical contacts), which is a part number WB50T10043 which might go for about $125 or so. If you are careful when you replace it, you can probably peal the faceplate (part # WB27T10125) off and reuse it, so you should just need the ERC.

May 05, 2009 | GE Ovens

4 Answers

F7 message with beeping


The F7 represents a shorted matrix or start key. To determine whether it's the key panel or control itself, disconnect the ribbon cable of the key panel that goes to the control and power the oven up. If the F7 does not come back, it's the key panel, if it comes back, it's the control..

Jun 09, 2006 | GE JKP15 Electric Single Oven

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