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First your freezer does not use R-134a. That is for auto air conditioners only. It uses R-12. You need refrigeration compound gauges, R-12 refrigerant and a two devices that connects to and punctures the lines and gives you a port to connect the hoses from the refrigeration compound gauges. You must have a refrigeration leak if you need to add refrigerant. The leak needs to be repaired or you will lose the refrigerant in a short time again.
My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration.
These units are nice, inexpensive and delicate.
There are not a lot of components to this unit.
1.) As a former service technician I have found the customer is not careful when defrosting. The manual states use a plastic spatula and a hair dryer. The refrigerant passes through the plates. Customers us hammers and screw drivers to remove the ice. The customer nicks the plates and the refrigerant leaks. Feel the plates. If you feel a oily clear substance you have a refrigerant leak. This repair will cost more than what you purchased the unit for.
2.) The Compressor & Overload relay. Unplug the unit. Remove the side panel. You will see the compressor and a box fixed to the compressor. The box is attached by wire clips. Using a flat head screw driver pop the clips off. There are 3 metal studs on the compressor. You will see a white piece with a 'V'. This is the overload. Using a flat head screw driver pry off the connectors including the white component. Inspect the component for burn marks. Shake the white component. If it rattles it is bad.
The compressor - You need a multi-meter to check the compressor. There are 3 pins on the compressor. Set the multi meter to the lowest setting on Ohms (The Omega Symbol). Put the two probe end together. You should get a reading of 1.0. Put the probe on two pins of the compressor. Record this reading. Ten the next set, record this reading and then the third set. There will be one high reading and two lower readings. If the two lower readings add up within reason to the high reading the compressor is good.
With the compressor and overload, sometimes you have to purchase both at a cost of $250.00. In this case you are better off to buy a new unit.
The temperature control T thermostat is difficult to check. If all of the previous component check out then this is your problem.
Peter, Baltimore, MD, USA
Yes, but you have to understand that if it needs recharged, it has a leak and must be found, repaired, evacuated then properly recharged. Most compact reefers only hold a few ounces of refrigerant, so it does not take much of a leak to affect its ability to cool....Your issue could be something other than refrigerant if its just not cooling.
Two things could be wrong. Motor bad or frozen up with ice.The noise could have been from frost building up and hitting the fan.If this is the case you need to defrost. Even self defrost models do this some times..Empty freezer and run a hair blower (dryer) to put heat in the compartment. this could take a while to do. over night...So run blower for a while to heat up the freezer then shut it off, close door .let sit It takes time for the heat to get to the ice.
if the motor is bad you will have to take inside cover off the access the motor
Most freezers do not have a tap from the factory to add aditional freon...you will need specialized equipment to be able to do that...
As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...
Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...
refrigeration systems are sealed. The only time you add refrigerant is when there is a leak. Maintenance wise, need to keep condenser and evap coils as clean as possible. Make sure all electrical connections are good and tight. Make sure that the compressor and/or condensing unit has good air circulation around it. Hope this helps ya out.
This sounds like clogged drain / hose in the freezer compartment, here's why:
When the defrost circuit turns on, the compressor turns off. The defrost coil melts frost that collects on the freezer coil and drips in to a small pan located below the coil. The pan is formed so that the water that drips in it can flow to a hose connected under it. When the defrost cycle completes. the compressor runs again, bringing the temperature in the freezer to about 0 again. Any water remaining anywhere in the freezer will turn to ice very quickly.
If the hose should become clogged with ice, or slowed by mold, bacteria, etc. - water flow will be slowed, and / or eventually stopped. Ice will become thicker and thicker on the floor of the freezer as there is no place for the water to go.
A service manual for the appliance would be a good idea, but may not be required. You'll need to unplug the freezer and empty the contents. Defrost manually with a hair dryer or other heat source. If you decide to chip away ice, do so carefully.
The defrost and drain area of most refrigerator / freezers are located behind the rear panel of the freezer compartment. This is where the manual would indicate where the parts are located. Remove any ice maker installed if needed to remove the back panel.
Defrost any ice previously hidden by the panel. Chipping ice here should be a last resort, as sharp edges can damage cooling coils, tubing and the drip pan itself. Use a turkey baster filled with hot water to direct a stream at the area of the pan filled with ice. Hot water will likely have to be directed down the opening on the pan to melt ice in the hose as well.
Once the ice is cleared, mix about a 10% to 20% solution of bleach and water (1/2 ounce bleach to 3 ounces water) and direct down the drain hose. This will kill and inhibit further growth of mold and bacteria in the hose, which should help it drain water quickly.
Re-assemble and plug into power.
I hope you found this Very Helpful. If you need more help, ask again - but include the freezer manufacturer's name and model number. Good luck!
when you have a slow leak in a refrigeration system .. there will come a time when there is not enough refrigerant to service the entire "evaporator" (cold coil) .. the symptoms would be: extra cold areas in the first part of the cooling coil and no or little cooling in the rest.
if its an older system then it likely uses R22 refrigerant (being phased out) .. newer ones use R134a .(also now causing some environmental concerns) . the system is normally sealed so the refrigerant has to be added through an "add on valve" (saddle valve) .. a dryer unit is often added to make sure no moisture has gotten into the system .. you need gages and special know how to do all this safely .. you should also locate and repair the small leak ..(soap bubbles or a special sniffer can be used). if its an older unit then it might be better to just replace it since newer ones are considerably more efficient ..
of course make sure that the external "concenser" coils are clean .. if those are clogged, cooling capacity and efficiency go way down .. even so its unlikely to cause yoiur symptoms ..
The thermostat cycles the refrigerator on and off. The refrigerator normally runs as long as the temperature inside the refrigerator is higher than the set temperature. If the temperature inside the refrigerator is cold enough and the thermostat still does not cycle off, the thermostat may be defective. If so, you need to replace it, because it cannot be repaired. If the thermostat is not defective, you may have a problem with the sealed (refrigerant) system, in which case you should contact a qualified appliance repair technician.