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this is all i could find out. How to clear timer on GE microwave?
Clearing the Timer on the Microwave. On most GE microwaves the Timer function can be cleared by simply pressing the Clear button once or twice. On some models pressing and holding the Clear or Timer buttons will clear the function. Review the Owner's Manual for model specific directions.
Search for: How to clear timer on GE microwave? or this.On most GE microwaves the Timer function can be cleared by simply pressing the Clear button once or twice. On some models pressing and holding the Clear or Timer buttons will clear the function.
Sounds like a bad relay array, or timer module. The little motor that makes the selector move (and then trip the function switches inside the timer module) could have trouble moving the selector past a certain point. When the machine stops, press your ear up against the timer module. Do you hear the little timer motor running? Yes? then it's probably the timer module itself, not the timer motor. I say this because you can manually move the selector to activate the modes.
If the machine is filling and washing but not advancing then the timer mechanism is not fuctioning. There is no codes so all other parts must be working, likke the pressure switch. You might test the door or lid switch this can sometimes hang these up. to test simply jump across the switch with a jumper wire. Basically
If the washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer does not advance, the timer probably needs to be replaced
If the timer does not advance while the washer is in a spin cycle, the timer probably needs to be replaced
I am supplying the service manual for this machine. Please be careful when attempting any repair and always make sure the machine is unplugged before starting any repair. This manual include service guides for testing components as well if your capable of these tests. The link will lead you to the manual. These manuals are not easy to come by due to the fact they are meant for service personell who make a living on these so it is inclusive and should help you in you issue.
These timers are normally sealed units (crimped and pressed sheet metal) and replaced as a unit. If you could open one up, you'd find that the contacts causing the intermittent problem are burnt from arcing. All washing machine timers will eventually get this problem with enough use. As an electrician, you'll recognize that all switches (washing machine timers are a series of switches oriented around a slow (timer) motor) are rated for a given number of make/break cycles. Washing machine timer contacts are no different. If you could actually "shine up" the offending pair of burnt contacts, another pair would soon show the same symptoms, since all the contacts in your timer have endured the same number of make/break cycles.
There is a water level pressure switch inside the top panel that has 3 wires on it and a vacuum line. That pressure switch controls the water inlet valve functions via the timer.
If by chance the pressure sensing line is getting hydraulically locked with water due to some form of obstruction it can cause the symptom you describe.
This pressure switch also controls the start of the spin once the water level has dropped (prevents the wash tub from being a water brake and damaging the motor clutch)
If the water level pressure switch is working normally then the only thing left is the timer.
You can do your own testing of the water level presure switch with an external vacuum hose (3 feet in length) connected in place of the machine hose. (DO NOT drop the machine hose when you disconnect it!)
1. place timer on wash and start filling. LID CLOSED
a. Force air orally into the external line
1) Result fill stops agitation begins
2. place timer in spin LID CLOSED and force air into external line until the pressure switch clicks.
a. START SPIN CYCLE NOW and listen for water pump out
b. release pressure on external air line
1) result tub starts spinning
If it passes the above tests your looking at a timer problem causing your no rinse situation.
When the cycle doesn't advance, it's probably the timer or a cold-water supply problem:
It's the timer, if your washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer never advances--or if the washer is in a spin cycle and the timer won't advance. Then you need to replace the timer.
It may be a cold-water supply problem, if the washing machine fills with water, agitates, drains, and spins, but then doesn't fill with rinse water. See There's no cold water.
as you mentioned timer advances,then check out cold water entering the machine or not.
If your washer won't spin, check these:
If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.
If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.
A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.
The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.
The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.
The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.
It spins only with the lid closed
For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.
sounds like the water isnt shutting off once it starts washing,check the valve assy or may have a timer fault,try turning off the taps once it starts washing and see what happens if it starts pumping then timer?