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Oven keeps turning off

Hi, I have a Gibson stove/oven. When usuing the oven... it will heat up to the set temperature beeps then shuts off. Now it's only the oven that this is happening with. The broiler and stove top works just fine. Is it just the element or something more. Oh, another point is that it started happening after the power went off.

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SOURCE: hotpoint stove oven

This is a simple step-by-step procedure.

1. Turn off the power to the oven at the breaker panel. Or slide the oven ahead and reach behind to unplug the power cord.

2. Take out the two screws holding the element bracket in place. These will be on the back wall of the oven. They are usually hex head or phillips screws.

3. Carefully pull the element toward you a little bit until you see the two wires behind it. Unscrew the wire leads and remove the bad heating element.

4. Handle the new element carefully while you attach the wires to it. Don't stretch the wires any more than you have to.

5. Line up the new element while tucking the wires back in place. Be sure not to pinch the wires between the bracket and the back wall.

6. Fasten the bracket screws, making sure they're tight.

7. Restore power to the appliance and start your oven to check if the new element heats up.

A few things to remember...

You are working with high voltage! Be sure the power is off or the oven is unplugged!

If you find one of the wires has come off the old element, simply reconnect and check your oven. Your old element may work again and you will not need to purchase a new one.

In removing any of the screws mentioned above, note that they may be difficult to lossen due to years of exposure to heat. Don't give up, they will eventually loosen.

Your new element may have some oil or other gunk on it due to the manufacturing process. Once it begins to heat, it may start to smoke. Don't panic! Any residue will eventually burn away and the smoke will cease from then on.

Good Luck!

Posted on Mar 04, 2008

  • 2651 Answers


the broiler came on automatically??? not a sensor issue. sounds as if you have a broken wire perhaps, or a faulty control panel energizing the broil element w/o being prompted to. does it say its broiling when element comes on??

Posted on Mar 06, 2008

  • 142 Answers

SOURCE: broiler element not working

It's either the switch that supplys power to the broiler element or it's the element itself (probably the element itself). I'd go after that first as it's not that expensive.

It's not a thermostat because if it was, the bake element wouldn't work either. The broiler element is not supposed to come on except when in the broil mode or cleaning mode.

Posted on Mar 14, 2008

  • 2651 Answers

SOURCE: heating element not coming on?

with a flashlight you can perhaps see far enough under the d/w, the heater leads plugin in the very back of machine, perhaps one of thje wires fell off during shipping/ installation. if not yoyu can removethe wire and checl heater for continuity, it should have continuity through heater. if not replace heater

Posted on Apr 04, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Ignitors keep firing by themselves after my aunt cleaned them 24 hours ago

my dishwasher's handle broke off

Posted on Apr 11, 2009

  • 530 Answers

SOURCE: Magic Chef oven & broiler do not work

you know i am thinking more towards a bad temp probe.

Posted on May 28, 2009

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How to fix stove knob that doesn't turn on?

Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.

You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.

On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
1.If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons. (Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful.
2.On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires.
3.Set your multimeter to ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective.
4.Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2".
5.If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced.
6.With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance.
7.A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed.
If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. )

Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

The oven burner igniter
commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.
: I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!





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