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Caravan fridge

My RM4270 caravan fridge wont work on mains. I've changed the element and thermostat. theres power to the thermostat and to the element feeds but the fridge just dosen't work. it fine on Gas. any sugestions would be appreciated. Kim

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  • Refrigerators Master
  • 12,962 Answers

See if you have access to a schematic on the unit itself. The fact that it works fine on gas tells you there is nothing wrong with the ammonia solution in the tubing. For that unit to work, the electric heating element has to boil off the ammonia and this is not happening. Check on the schematic if there is some kind of fuse or additional in line switch which is preventing the heating element from turning on and doings its job.

Posted on Nov 27, 2013


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: change gas/110volt fridge element to gas 240volt

I don't see the need to convert from 110 to 220. If your motor home has 220 circuits then you should be able to have it wired for 110. This would be just like in any residential home. Any 220 generator will have 110 available. 220 is just 2 hot wires, where 110 is one of those same lines and referenced to ground or neutral.
Ask an electrician if you are not sure how to wire it...

Posted on Jan 28, 2008

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SOURCE: fan in the freezer stop working ater a while

The service manual gives the following explanation of your error code (Er FF): "Poor motor, hooking of wires to fan. Contact of structures to Fan. Snapping or short-circuit of L/wire (if there is no fan motor signal for more than 60 seconds in operation of fan motor)" So CoolTech is right!

Posted on Jun 10, 2009

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SOURCE: Motor not going on at all anymore

need brand and model number .

Posted on Jul 21, 2009

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SOURCE: fridge wont get cold with gas

This is worth a try. Disconect the gas and power make sure the pilot light is out. Turn the fidge unside down overnight then unright again. Try it on gas agian. This worth a couple of goes before giving up.

Posted on Aug 30, 2009

  • 128 Answers

SOURCE: RM6270 in a touring caravan, over 5 yrs old.

Some of the Dometics have what was called the 'Dinosaur Board' which is a circuit card which controls the unit.

Not sure if it applies to your exact model, but if there is a company who just makes replacement control boards for Dometic fridges, that is a big fat clue, in my book. Cheers.

Posted on Oct 21, 2009

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After taking of the freezer back plate I can see the coils and thermostat but not the heater. Is there a video that shows where the heater is, how to get at it and how to change the heater?

the element is in the middle of the coil at the bottom they will burn but 30 years in the business tought me that the defrost timer is no 1 for defrost problemes and defrost thermostat is no 2 before and the element is rarelly defective

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PLEASE Only Answer this question if you know this model I am an Appliance technician. Whirlpool S21S4d side by side fridge freezer. Serial#=110507015236. This unit alarmed and warmed up I found the...


Welcome to FixYa.

I'll just throw this out there and you can take it for what it is, just my experience as a fellow technician.

I've seen some recent defrost elements being broken which 9 times out of 10 check out OK. It is usually right at the point of where the wire enters the element and it has fooled me at first a few times. I can ohm it out and it seems fine. I got lucky one time and as I was twisting the wire checking continuity, it showed itself open, now I've seen several over the past 2years or so.

I have been repairing appliances for around 20yrs. and it is something I've only seen occur recently on late model fridges. I will admit most of those have been of the Frigidaire/Electrolux variety, but I just thought I'd put that out there for you. I know you could be scratching your head over this for days otherwise and it may not be the case, but you may want to try a heating element...considering all you've done this far it would appear you have nothing to lose.

Here's wishing you luck from one who's been where you are. Good luck.


Macmarkus :)

Mar 21, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Not cold enough. freezer works but fridge wont stay cold. i can shut it off for a day and it will work for two more. after that it quits again.

It you have a frost free fridge, then what is happening is that either the defrost element or the thermostat is faulty, causing ice to build up and block off cold air circulation to the fridge. Sometimes the frost builds up around the circulation fan and ceases it up.

That is why when you turn the fridge off for a day, the frost melts and drains out the back of your fridge and so the fridge works ok for a few days until the frost build up again.

Another thing to watch out for is the defrost timer. Sometimes they fail and stick on one cycle and dont advance through. pull your fridge out. The timer is located in the back near the compressor. There is normally a small dial on it. With the fridge turned off, you can twist the dial clockwise and you will hear the timer mechanism click through the different cycles. Make small ink mark on the timer dial. Say at 12 oclock. Turn fridge on. Chech the fridge every couple of hours and see if the mark advances through and does not get stuck in one position for lengthy periods of time. The defrost cycle should normally be around 8 hours and it repeats again.

Let me know if you need more help with the defrost element or thermostat. But it is best to get an experienced repairer to change those.

Good luck

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Hotpoint RLA64 getting too cold.

The thermostat capillary on a Hotpoint RLA64 (and possibly RLA80) is inserted into a tube. The tube becomes detached from the cooling element and so does not sense that the fridge has reached the desired temperature. It then carries on cooling resulting in ice build-up and freezing of goods.
As you cannot remove the top or back of the fridge, you cannot fix the capillary tube back into position. What you can do however, AFTER ISOLATING THE FRIDGE FROM THE MAINS SUPPLY, is to drill a small hole adjacent to the thermostat capillary tube and another in the roof of the fridge next to the interior light and pass the thermostat capillary INTO the fridge cabinet. Use tape to attach the capillary across the roof of the fridge and down the centre of the rear wall curling the last 50mm or so back up towards the top of the fridge. As long as you have dried the wall of the fridge and stuck the capillary securely in place, your fridge should now work correctly when powered up.
Only tackle this job if you are confident and ALWAYS ISOLATE the mains supply.

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I have a similar situation before in your case if your heating element is working then you are lucky I had a samsung fridge and the defrost heating element was bad and i was forced to install a different one because i would have to change the hole evaporator in order to replace the heating element so what dit was to use a mechanical 10 hour defrost timer and install a generic heating element and a defrost thermostat on serial so it want work on less the evaporator has froze over i drill a hole to the back of the fridge and i wren the cables to the back of the fridge cover then whit foil tape an take power directly from the power cord i install the timer next to the control board so every 10 hours will give power to the heating element but will not come on unless the evaporator has froze up. on my case i had to do it like that because the heating element i use was to strong for the control board and would just burn it up. but will work even better using the original heating element. NOTE: find the diagram of a old fridge that will help you to figure out how to install the timer and the defrost thermostat no need for the timer to cut off the compressor keep in mind than the defrost thermostat only close the circuit when is chill below freezing so i recommend to use a new one I hope this help you

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