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The brand is on the head badge (on the part of the frame where the fork goes through to the handlebars). If that is missing, and there is no model name on the frame then it will be very difficult to ID brand. Please note that removal of the head badge may indicate the bike has been stolen, or that the bike has been repainted - often poorly. You don't need to know brand to work on it or to get parts..
Bikes do not have a central VIN number database like cars. Each brand has its own system for each actual manufacturing plant that makes their bikes.. Some plants make more than one brand, and some use the same frame for different brands. So frankly it's not that important what brand yours is.
Further, if the brand/model info has been removed the bike is either stolen or the victim of a cheap repaint job, and is not worth much. The ONLY significant difference between brands and models is the frame. Everything else can be switched out.
If you still want to know what brand it is, post multiple pics on a BMX forum and someone may be able to ID it from the style of frame and the components, assuming they have not been changed out. For more info see my tip:
If there is no brand on the head tube (where the fork goes through the frame) and no model on the frame (due to probably a rattle-can paint job) then it is very unlikely that one could ID the bike by serial number. It's not like the VIN on a car which is standardized.
It's not important in any case, as bike parts are fairly universal, and if selling it you will only be able to ask a price appropriate for a generic bike. For more info: How to determine the year value etc of your bicycle
you will not get manufacturers names from a serial number
try taking the frame to a reputable bike repair shop and have it identified
some manufacturers us particular shaped joiners to make the frame and they may be able to recognize the manufacturer from that
then you may have a chance in identifying it of the serial number
You'll need to take it to a welding shop to have it properly repaired. Look at how much a similar "used" aluminum bike frame cost, then use that as a gauge to set a cost limit. Say for example a similar used bike frame cost $100 from a bike shop. If the welder charges $80 or more, then you might as well spend the extra $20 and replace the cracked bike frame instead of getting it welded. Of course, you'll need to take the parts off the cracked bike frame and transfer them to the used bike frame, assuming you know how to do it yourself. If you need to pay a bike shop to do the job, then having the welder repair the crack is cheaper.
Local Bike Shops (LBSs) generally all sell reputable brands. Most brands use similar components, so the major difference is often the frame. Look for a brand that has a good warranty, preferably a lifetime warranty, on the frame. Mountain bikes have become a very low-margin business, so many manufacturers are running in the red or may already be out of business; its preferable if yours isn't one of these. Still, unless you end up replacing the frame, it won't matter much over the long run what the brand is.
Also, there is a growing trend of extremely low-end manufacturers buying out reputable but cash-strapped brands purely for the name. They can then sell junk bikes with a good brand name on it. These bikes are usually sold at discount or sporting-goods stores, not bike shops.
I'm going to assume you that when you say, "bike seat stem" you mean "seat post". I'm also going to assume that the bike frame is made of steel and the seat post is most likely chromed steel.
What most likely is the problem (absent of more details) is that the seat post has rusted to the inside of the frame. If the bike is stored outside this is a very common problem on less expensive bikes.
I have never heard of a bike manufacturer putting any kind of paint or other anti-corrosion inside of the bike frame to prevent rust.
You can try spraying a little "Liquid Wrench" or WD40 oil on the seat post where it inserts into the frame. Let it sit over night and then tap it with a mallet to try to break the rust free. Use a pair of Channel Lock pliers to get a bite on it and see if you can twist it out.
On a steel bike the very last resort to use, if you by all means have to have that seat post out, is to apply heat to it, with a propane or oxy-acetylene torch. This will probably destroy the paint job and weaken the seat post.
If the bike frame is aluminum, you can get something similar to galvanic corrosion and this can seize the seat post in the frame. The remedy is the same as with the steel frame (but excessive heat and easily melt aluminum very quickly and leave a puddle of molten metal on the garage floor). If the frame is carbon fiber and the seat post is aluminum, carbon and aluminum don't like to touch each other and they will start a natural chemical reaction of corrosion which could cause the two to stick together (don't ever use a flame on a carbon fiber bike, it would be the end of the bike and just plain stupid). Anytime aluminum touches carbon or titanium an anti-seize compound should be applied to the parts.
Once you have the seat post removed, use your finger to wipe grease inside the seat tube and on the seat post before reinserting it and you won't have this problem again.
The rust is only superficial and will in no way weaken the bike stucturally so dont worry about the frame being weaked. When the frame was painted there may have been a residue from the manufacturing process that was not removed prior to painting and this has resulted in the weakness in the paint. If you are worried about it you could scrape back the rust spots and touch them up with a little primer then a dab of gloss. You can buy small ammounts of paint from a model shop or use metalic nail polish if a metalic finish. An alternative is to treat the spots with rust converter and spray the bad areas with WD40 and this should should protect it.