Compatability of differnt makes of pre and power amps (hi-fi)
Does the stated impedance of pre and power amps have to match? i have a heybrook signature pre and wish to use musical fidelity f19 power. i have been unable to contact heybrook so have no idea of technical specs of my pre amp. any help/advice would be appriecieated
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I used to be a hi-fi enthusiast many years ago.
A low frequency hum can be caused by inadvertently creating a "hum loop". This is when audio separates are earthed or grounded where they are plugged into the power outlets and then connected together using screened audio leads where the screening is connected to both plugs.
The situation can become worse when one of the separates is a type that isn't grounded.
Ineffective or insufficient power supply smoothing and/or shielding leaving an AC ripple on the DC also creates a hum or in the case of poor design or bad shielding can radiate AC magnetism into the high gain input stages of amplification.
Whatever the cause of the hum it can be aggravated by poor matching of separates with regard to input/output sensitivities and impedances. If the pre-amp stage gains have to be high to compensate for a low input signal the signal-to-noise ratio will always be poor through every stage. Small signals requiring large amounts of amplification requires low impedance circuitry and appropriate sensitivity.
The question doesn't really make sense because a Tannoy S10 is a speaker. You can daisy chain as many speakers as you want. That's not the issue though. It's what load the amp sees that's the problem.
Most Hi-Fi speakers are a nominal (that means average) 6~8 Ohm load. However, the Impedance varies with frequency and phase. So at certain frequencies the amp will see a much higher load; maybe as much as 30 Ohms. At other points the load will drop to 3 or 4 ohms. The reason why your amp doesn't fry itself is that music contains a wide range of frequencies, so the load is made up of lots of different slices of impedance all summed together.
If you start to add extra speakers on to an amp then one of two things will happen. Either they'll be wired in series; in which case the Ohms load will increase by the addition of the speaker impedances e.g. 8 Ohm + 8 Ohm = 16 Ohms pre channel. Or the impedance will be reduced because the speakers are wired in parallel (1/8 + 1/8)inverse = 4 Ohms.
16 Ohms is about on the limit of what a very good Hi-Fi amp could drive. But the volume will be reduced and the amp will go into distortion much earlier.
4 Ohms is a much bigger problem. The impedance swings will dip dangerously low to the point where the amp sees the speaker load as a short across the terminals. At that point the amp will dump a whole load of current into the speakers, thus frying the voice coils and burning itself out. That ends with a small puff of smoke and a very large repair bill.
If you want a system louder then you have to add more amps and more speakers. Simply piling speakers on to an existing amp won't do it. You're spreading the amplifier power more thinly because of the extra load, so each speaker ends up being quieter.
Mail me and i gave you the parts you have to buy for a good self built one, which is way better then a pro-ject phono box s, which i also have and not diy becomes interesting comparing it to 400euro+
hi-fi brand phono amp. Only those hi-fi brands just but chines capacitors in their gear.... sad
You need to add a Pre-Amp to make this functional. it can work, however, it's not really recommended to do this. The impedance levels usually don't quite match and can do harm to the receiver. Pre-Amps range in cost from 50 on up. They are abundant online. Hope this helps.
Companies are stingy with schematics. If you know the part is bad just replace it. Hint: MOST of the companies use the manufacturer's application note schematics for their designs. Here is one for the TDA2040:
When ordering the part make sure to get either the H or V version to match the one you are replacing... the leads are pre-bent. Use thermal compound grease and if there is an insulator make sure it is OK. Often there is a shoulder washer insulator for the screw.
Most likely the 1/8" jack's input is LINE level. The microphone works at a higher IMPEDANCE and will have to be boosted to line level in order to have a matching impedance to the input on your netbook. You can use a mixer, a DI box, or microphone pre-amp to match the LINE level of your 1/8" jack. That will give you more control over level with less noise.
on ur subwoofer u will see HPF output, connect this output to MAIN IN of ur power amp (first remove jumper between pre-out and main in from ur power amp) connect pre-out of ur power amp to input 2 L&R (Left is also for mono input). the HFP selector switch will cut off 80Hz or 100Hz to the main input depending on the position enabling u to have high frequency sound on your main speakers. connect the speakers to the main output terminal of ur power amp. do not connect speakers on the woofer ouput.
make sure u are using the right impedance speakers. do not switch speaker impedance selector while the unit is on.
You can get some Heybrook manuals from here. They will cost ya but...:) Signature amps are often rebuilds with extra quality of another related model. So you may be able to get the circuit of a different model to match yours:) Worth a try
There are many answers to your questions but Ill have a go with the basics...
Audio connections should be matched.... its called Frequency impedance,.... to get a signal along wires or cables (or Fibre) the Impedance of the cables and wires must be matched to the device they are connected to transfer the signal along the cables without distortion...
Manufacturers provide many sockets on the input side of amplifiers and preamplifiers to allow the consumer to connect various devices of different impedance.
They label these inputs like CD, or Tuner, or PHONO etc etc,
That means if you have a CD player it must be plugged into the CD input socket then the impedance will be correct and the sound will transfer along the CD cables correctly, without distortion..same with the Phono input etc...
You will find on the sound output to the speakers terminals are also labelled 4-6ohm, or 8-10ohm, these are the impedance expected for the coil ratings of the speakers them selves and its important to get the correct speakers to the correct out put terminals...
In your case all you have to do is follow these simple rules and all will be well....you say you have a squeeze box well there probably isnt a port labelled squeeze box so you need to experiment and try out each input port for the squeeze box to see what input gives you the correct sound output...Watch the Phono inputs as these are very sensative to input sound levels and must be treated very carefully as they have a double stage of sound amplification and as such you need to have the volume right down when connecting up the Phono inputs then increase the volume carefully after the cable connections are completed.
If you follow these rules then all will be well,,,,there is no difference if the Pre amp or Power amp is valve or transistor or FET or has IC outputs to the speaker the same impedance rules apply..just treat it as a box with input and output terminals and all the impedance will be taken care of for you...if you read the lables...
You need to connect you signal source to the Preamp inputs the out put from the Preamp connects to the power amp input then the power amp output goes to the speakers. this is a basic configuration for sound systems, there are other variations but are outside this discussion.