Thermal cut-out let go in this toaster oven after 21 months of use. KitchenAid won't sell me a replacement part, but is willing to sell me a new unit for $112.95 with shipping. Country of origin? China.
Basically, it is a 206 degree centigrade thermal cut-out p/n 155431.056 and has a single screw mounting point. It's an electrical part (obviously) and has two spade terminals on it. The main body is ceramic and is about 3/4" by 3/8". There is an aluminum piece that is crimped on like a jewel at 4 points, and provides a cross-like contact surface of about a little over an inch by 3/4".
What I'm looking for is some kind of thermal cut-out of the same or slightly lower cut-out point that I can retrofit to this unit. Electrically and mechanically, the oven is in excellent shape and was never abused. In fact, it still looks new.
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Yes. Many of these have a display thermal fuse that is part of the wiring harness that connects to the board... it should have continuity. WP4451042. Almost all models have what is called the "oven shut-down thermal fuse" which is on the back of the machine ( you have to pull it out of the wall and remove the back panel) and looks like this
KitchenAid Range Stove Oven Thermal Fuse WP9759242
Parts #: W10317343
Substitution: WPW10317343 $145.98 at sears
Parts #: W10354052
Substitution: WPW10354052 $125.92 at sears
Part #: W10317347 front LED board $230 at sears
Many ovens have a bi-metal thermal fuse-also called a thermal limit switch-that protects the oven from overheating. The oven thermal fuse trips when the temperature in the oven gets too hot. After the thermal fuse trips, the oven won't heat. If the thermal fuse trips after the self-cleaning cycle, try resetting the fuse by turning off electricity to the oven, removing the exterior back panel, and pushing the reset button. If the fuse tripped during normal operation, replace it. If the problem persists, the electronic oven control board might require replacement. Reset the thermal fuse after replacing the control board.
Kitchen aid is made by Whirlpool. There is a very good chance the then thermal fuse on the back of the oven has tripped. Whirlpools are very prone to this fuse tripping after a clean cycle. The noisy fan is just that a noisy fan it will probably need replacing. I have replace a couple of them over the years. When you pull the oven out to replace the thermal fuse replace the fan motor at the same tiome.
Unfortunately KitchenAid ovens notoriously blow a thermal fuse when you use the self cleaning cycle, and if you're lucky that's all that happened. Hopefully your oven is still under warranty. If so, call KitchenAid customer service and they will repair it for free.
If you're handy you can check/replace the thermal fuse yourself (requires pulling out the oven and taking off the back panel, finding and replacing the fuse- be sure to turn off power and gas first).
assuming its been fixed by now. thermal-couples on mags trigger at 160F i believe.. forces shutdown for safety. possible causes..several mag fan working? EC fan working? mag cooling fins packed with dust? wave guides full of crud causing arching? mag tip burnt? faulty mag thermal-couple, unlikely
No, no need to get a thermostat or replace the unit...yet.
sounds like a tripped hi-limit thermo.
that model number looks like a double oven wall unit, correct ? if so, big job. if not awesome. if it is, it's hard only because these are heavy. (alot of techs like myself have "wall oven carts" that allow me to remove it fairly easy) you might not have to pull it out though if it's not a wall oven, my bad.
however, I think it may be the older unit's manufactured by "Dacor". if so the limit switch on most of those ranges is a "non-resetable" style. meaning you'll have to replace the themal cut-out or aka thermal switch. *FIRST, unplug the unit or shut off the breaker.
the hi-limit is located by the latch/lock assembly, so you'll need to dismantle the unit to a degree. if it's a free standing range, it's pretty easy. lift the top and the latch/lock access panel is located right there.
you'll need to determine the "why" as well of course. did the cooling fan/blower fail (#4173004), or the cooling fan therostat (#4173008) ?
the part number you'll need for the thermal switch failure replacement is #814505. check the old one by ohming it out first of course.
Thermal fuse went out by door latch and thermal fuse on back of oven probably tripped too; once failed they need to be replaced. This is probably a job for the repairman as something caused fuse to go out in the first place; unless resolved it will recur. Please contact me if you need further help or leave feedback if appropriate as that is how I get paid. Thanks for letting me help you!